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alexperkins wrote:About that, yes.

Well thanks for your help buddy, I think I'm going to ring up the garage and see if they have a stiffer hose material and can remove the lower air box!

Cheers.

Youll still get a drop in MPG no matter what you do unfortunately.

The only sensors are the ones with wires attached. Theres a thermostatic mixer valve inside that mixes hot and cold air, but thats part of the airbox itself.

That'll be what it is then, it's moulded in to the box so needs to be ...

You'd probably be better to stick a backbox on it to drown out the engine noise

Failing that, get the engine insulation from a 1.4TDI to quieten down the engine bay.

Yeah a backbox was my next plan, but as the cone air filter was cheaper I thought I'd try it now.

I tried to remove the lower ...

Can be up to 10mpg

Its a common misconception that replacing your air filter on anything that isnt heavily tuned and turbo'd that youll get better economy. Replacement air filters often make performance worse, and burn more fuel as a result

Guessing you dont like the 'electric' sound the engine ...

I would take the cone filter off and put the factory air box back on

All the cone filter will do is reduce your MPG and continue to create vibration like it currently is

Failing that, you ned to think about fitting it properly and taking the bottom airbox off too.

I honestly can't stand the ...

So, i've got a 3 cylinder 1.2 and it sounds horrendous, so I got a cone air filter, took the top of the air box off and took the panel filter off, then took the hose out of the lower half of the air box and connected the cone filter on to this.

It sounds better after a little while of open ...

The speedo cant be calibrated that much :P

Also in doing that, you put more strain on the CV joints, and youll also lose economy as the engine will be working harder to produce the same result

Check out the tyre calculator here to help you choose:

http://www.willtheyfit.com/

As a rough guide ...

Right, so say you have a 15 inch alloy, and this has a 2 inch tyre wall. and a 3 inch gap

For the purpose of this, we swap it to a 17 inch alloy, but we cant have a 2 inch tyre wall, as then the rolling radius between the old wheel and the new wheel will be massively different, and the cars speedo ...

The arch gap is still the same size - its the visual perception that throws you as larger alloy = less tyre

This picture shows it well:

http://media.caranddriver.com/images/media/51/effects-of-upsized-wheels-and-tires-tested-wheelsizes-678-photo-568639-s-original.jpg

As you can see, the arch ...

As Tom says, using the correct alloy/tyre combo, the rolling diameter is still the same, your just having more alloy and less tyre.

The only way to get less gap is to lower the car, or use tyres that arent suited to the car and send the speedo well out (foolish)

Wait a minute, now I'm not 100 ...

I dont know where this myth has come from about increasing alloy size makes the car look lower - it doesnt.

If anything it will look more ridiculous on larger wheels and on stilts.

The rolling diameter of the wheel/alloy combo will be the same if on 14's or 17's. Assuming you use the correct ...

Hi all,

Being my first car, it's a 1.2 E and came with standard 14" steels with clip ons. I would like to upgrade these to maybe 16" or 17" inch alloys, and I hope that these would fill the arch gap better without the need for coilies or springs.

Anyone have an idea as to which size will fit best ...

Tony Boi 92 wrote:induction kit? open cone air filter?

Yeah buddy they're next on my list!

perarduapropatria wrote:Haven't you got homework to be getting on with?

So senile.

Indeed.

"may invalidate", not will invalidate.

They will have a hard time proving I knew that the modifications had been made if I argue I was told it was standard.

"May" is legal speak for "will"

They won't - they'll pull the VIN

They can pull the VIN, but can't prove that I knew of them ...