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As long as it has resistance, should be fine. Check it after 100k's

I don't know anyone who has.
Make sure the car is level, the steering straight, the road even. When you remove the bolts, things can move around.

Given how prone to failure the OEM ones are, not sure you could do much worse...

Strange, I had that before... I've broken 2 sets, although if your are new, haven't really had a chance to damage them.

Nt sure, not seen it done elsewhere. Can you provide more info? Pictures, etc?

Fk's are supposed to be good, I found the AP's a bit rough.

How about the bearings?

The centre nut is attached to the threaded sections, you need to loosten the nuts on the 2 end sections before you turn.

You should be able to look at the thread to see which way to turn.

Why not look at the rim, it is likely stamped on it.
205's are easier to fit if you are low, but it's all about the offset.

Tip, nothing really. Down pipe is worth a few and a little more burble

That's for the rear. Adjustable top mounts, not easy in the Polo.

Retrofr3ak wrote:Have a look at mine, check both pages on this thread

For your 1.6? Can't see pics if you are not signed up.

1.8T loves cold air, I dont recommend an open pod in the engine bay.

I'm running 8", 215's, about 15mm arch clearance in the front, 39 offset, whiteline sway bars. I don't rub in daily driving

Lots of debate if a panel filter makes any difference, PD160 makes a big difference when tuned

I have read a number of times that the opening and closing of the throttle body around turning the car on is not a calibration. Pretty easy with VCDS.