Lambda sensor

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vlad.tudose
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2019 8:08 pm

Lambda sensor

Post by vlad.tudose »

Quick one:

My pre cat Lambda sensor on my 6N2 went bad. Got a new one only to realise that it was only 4 pin sensor which doesnt fit my 6 pin connector. I find it strange that there are 2 versions, even when I type my reg into euro car parts I get both tpyes, why is this?

Do you think there is any to cut the wires and still use the one I got or try return and get another one?

Would also appreciate any advice on removing the bloody thing... I bought a blowtorch and tried but maybe I didnt heat it up enough still, is there a trick to this?

cheers
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alexperkins
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Drives: 91 Golf GTI, 01 TT 225, 54 T5 174
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Re: Lambda sensor

Post by alexperkins »

Return it and get the right one. 6N2s need a wideband sensor hence the extra wires

Only use NGK or Bosch sensors also. Either they or genuine

Blowtorch and a pair of waterpump pliers should do it
vlad.tudose
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Posts: 14
Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2019 8:08 pm

Re: Lambda sensor

Post by vlad.tudose »

alright, ive been looking, cheapest bosch ones ive seen are around £65 but it should be worth it. My car has had some bad idling/loss of power problems, but the only code it throws up is this sensor plus dash light. This sensor must be really worn out, but I did drive about with it like that for ages before I knew anything about cars.

You could say the engine was literally hanging by a thread in terms of how well it was running before i sort of abandoned the car - really bad idle, frequent stalls, acceleration problems, about 4 different sounds from the engine bay, etc.
Left it for like 6 months before realising oh crap I still have this car, and decided to do some major repairs to it, first problem I ran into when trying to start it was that the engine wouldnt turn - it had siezed. Yeah I know, it sounds strange only after 6 months, but I felt like one of those you tubers that go around reviving cars at scrapyards. There are cars that sit for decades and the engine doesnt seize. And it didnt run low on oil, Im guessing the moisture must have gotten into it somehow.

Tried towing it in gear and starting, with no success. Found some patience, poured diesel into plug holes every day for bout 2 weeks and tried towing then finally bought the right tool which was a deep offset ring spanner to get onto crankshaft pulley bolt with long metal pipe and voila - engine was turning.

Next problem was that it essentially still wouldnt start although the starter could easily turn engine. I must have triple checked that I had spark, fuel, compression, air, over and over. After ages of fiddling in the engine bay with various bits, I discovered that the bloody IMMOBILISER was disconnected. I dont remember even disconnecting the sodded thing but I felt so stupid. I was insisting that someone tried to steal my car but I must have done it when I fiddled with the relays earlier.

At this stage I thought it would be a good idea to try a diagnosis MOT at Halfords just to see what else was wrong with it. The guys must have had it there for 3 minutes tops. They came back and told me that unfortunately they refuse to carry out the tests it because the engine sounds like a tractor, which it did to be fair. So the most recent work I did to it was replacing the tappets and finger followers in hope that it wouldnt be so noisy, as well as doing the distribution and timing belts + tensioners. Cooling system is due an overhaul as its not showing the right temp - i bought a new radiator and thermostat.

Nevertheless, Im glad that it runs again and replacing so many things on it taught me so much about mechanics and the polo especially.
Its great knowledge that will come in handy now that I recently found a MK2 GTI which I am planning to carry out restoration on. Gonna need this polo so I can run around in my chase for various bits. Then after my GTI is up to scratch the polo shall get a good old slamming. It deserves a 1.8 turbo without a doubt.
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