Help with PQ25 Max BCM and bi-xenons
Posted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 11:58 am
Hi all,
I know this is not a polo but there seem to be a few xenon experts on here!!
I have just fitted a pair of oem bi-xenon's (2016 lights) with led drl into a 2012 (MY13) Amarok Highline. (this truck came with the 'auto' lights switch & rain sensor fitted.)
Previous mods include oem reverse camera, mk6 golf tiptronicsteering wheel and oem towbar which all went in and coded with no issues.
The 10-pin connector for the headlights is the same for both old and new lights and the lights are a drop-in replacement. I had height adjust, dipped/main beam and the indicator working as soon as they were fitted without doing anything to the wiring/coding etc.
On my original all-halogen headlights pin 4 was the feed for the DRL and pin 10 for the side light.
Following the little information I can find on the net I have removed pin 10 at the headlight end of the loom. I have run a new (pair of) wires from pin 10 at the lights to the BCM connector T73B pins 5 & 6 (supposed to be a pwm feed out for led DRL)
I then had to uncheck the coding tick box for 'parking lights on with terminal 15 off' and the drl led's started working.
The bcm has a part no. of 7H0 937 090 - BCM PQ25 Max4 H72 0706 which is supposed to fully support xenon
The led strip is built into the headlight.
The led controller is separate to the ballast and has a part number of 4G0907697G although I have also tried swapping these for a 4G0907697F version to test.
The only problem is I have no side lights. I have checked on a Amarok with factory Xenon and when in the sidelight or dipped/main beam position the led drl lights should dim to around half brightness. I get no light at all.
So, When my light switch is off - I get only the led drl at the front (when I turn the key on) and the instrument cluster dials light up
When I turn the lightswitch to parking/sidelight I get the rear and numberplate lights along with the dash and button lighting but no front lights (ie the dlr's turn off)
They are still off with dipped /main beam and the same thing happens with the switch in the 'auto' posotion.
From What I can work out so far - The led module needs +12v on both pin 4 and pin 10 to work at full brightness. Both 4 and 10 are measuring 12v when the dlr is on. When I turn on side or main lights pin 10 (the new wires I have run) is dropping to 3.8v.
I have read a few bits about the led modules not working under 50% brightness so it may be that I just need to increase the value of the pwm on pin 10.
I am presuming that a pwm of 12v at 50% should be mesuering about 6v on my meter rather than 3.8v?
I have tried loads of variations of coding, even down to a copy & paste of the long code from the factory truck.
I have also been looking through the wiring diagrams and I am pretty sure I have got everything correct on that side.
The fact that the new pin 10 wires switch on to 12v and then drop to 3.8v makes me think they are the correct ones just need turning up a bit? maybe?
I am thinking about feeding a 5vdc feed into pin 10 just to see if they light up with a little bit more power but I don't know if I can use a direct dc voltage or must it be a pwm feed?
Ayy ideas would be awesome as I have been spending about 5hrs a night on this for the last 2 weeks!!!
Thanks!
I know this is not a polo but there seem to be a few xenon experts on here!!
I have just fitted a pair of oem bi-xenon's (2016 lights) with led drl into a 2012 (MY13) Amarok Highline. (this truck came with the 'auto' lights switch & rain sensor fitted.)
Previous mods include oem reverse camera, mk6 golf tiptronicsteering wheel and oem towbar which all went in and coded with no issues.
The 10-pin connector for the headlights is the same for both old and new lights and the lights are a drop-in replacement. I had height adjust, dipped/main beam and the indicator working as soon as they were fitted without doing anything to the wiring/coding etc.
On my original all-halogen headlights pin 4 was the feed for the DRL and pin 10 for the side light.
Following the little information I can find on the net I have removed pin 10 at the headlight end of the loom. I have run a new (pair of) wires from pin 10 at the lights to the BCM connector T73B pins 5 & 6 (supposed to be a pwm feed out for led DRL)
I then had to uncheck the coding tick box for 'parking lights on with terminal 15 off' and the drl led's started working.
The bcm has a part no. of 7H0 937 090 - BCM PQ25 Max4 H72 0706 which is supposed to fully support xenon
The led strip is built into the headlight.
The led controller is separate to the ballast and has a part number of 4G0907697G although I have also tried swapping these for a 4G0907697F version to test.
The only problem is I have no side lights. I have checked on a Amarok with factory Xenon and when in the sidelight or dipped/main beam position the led drl lights should dim to around half brightness. I get no light at all.
So, When my light switch is off - I get only the led drl at the front (when I turn the key on) and the instrument cluster dials light up
When I turn the lightswitch to parking/sidelight I get the rear and numberplate lights along with the dash and button lighting but no front lights (ie the dlr's turn off)
They are still off with dipped /main beam and the same thing happens with the switch in the 'auto' posotion.
From What I can work out so far - The led module needs +12v on both pin 4 and pin 10 to work at full brightness. Both 4 and 10 are measuring 12v when the dlr is on. When I turn on side or main lights pin 10 (the new wires I have run) is dropping to 3.8v.
I have read a few bits about the led modules not working under 50% brightness so it may be that I just need to increase the value of the pwm on pin 10.
I am presuming that a pwm of 12v at 50% should be mesuering about 6v on my meter rather than 3.8v?
I have tried loads of variations of coding, even down to a copy & paste of the long code from the factory truck.
I have also been looking through the wiring diagrams and I am pretty sure I have got everything correct on that side.
The fact that the new pin 10 wires switch on to 12v and then drop to 3.8v makes me think they are the correct ones just need turning up a bit? maybe?
I am thinking about feeding a 5vdc feed into pin 10 just to see if they light up with a little bit more power but I don't know if I can use a direct dc voltage or must it be a pwm feed?
Ayy ideas would be awesome as I have been spending about 5hrs a night on this for the last 2 weeks!!!
Thanks!