Show me your head unit

[PugBrothers]

You should’ve posted on here sooner mate, I think I had enough headaches figuring out mine for everyone!

Let me know how it goes when it’s all fitted in. Hopefully there aren’t any issues with battery drain or any of that but if there it’s just a case of buying a fancier canbus. You’ll be alright.

Good luck!


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[SnoopyD]

I did mate, it all works brilliantly. Dead chuffed with it. No messing around with any wires at all, other than hooking in the harness and grounding the green handbrake cable. But that was dead easy. Are you thinking of giving it a go?




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I’m planning on installing a similar large screen Android Auto/Car Play head unit into an ‘07 9N3 soon too so hoping you/someone can help with a couple of initial questions. Did your more expensive CANbus adapter still require the green handbrake cable be grounded elsewhere? Where did you end up grounding to too (assume splice into adapter or to a frame point)?

[PugBrothers]

Hiya! The canbus adapter takes care of literally everything, so there’s no need to find any grounding points in that respect. The pioneer head unit has a green handbrake cable, and I connected that to the black ground / earth cable on the back of the unit. I can really recommend the method I mentioned above. Had absolutely no problems at all and the install was problem free!


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[SnoopyD]

Hiya! The canbus adapter takes care of literally everything, so there’s no need to find any grounding points in that respect. The pioneer head unit has a green handbrake cable, and I connected that to the black ground / earth cable on the back of the unit. I can really recommend the method I mentioned above. Had absolutely no problems at all and the install was problem free!


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Great, thanks for confirming. I’ve been looking at one of the cheaper (but still pricey!) Sony units (XAV-AX100 or -AX3005) which have the handbrake wire too, hence the questions. Did I see in another of your recent posts that you didn’t need any adapters for the Pioneer 7” wide unit too? Not even an aftermarket fascia?

Trying to decide whether the cost for the screen is worth it vs a cheap single DIN BT only unit. Will tally up the costs and might be back with a few more qs if I settle on it, thanks.

[SnoopyD]

Another simple question - where did you end up routing your USB port? Just trying to establish the neatest way to do this.

[alexperkins]

When I did this, I brought it out to the right under the steering wheel on the little shelf so I could plug my phone in and leave it there

[PugBrothers]

Exactly what Alex said - you can feed the usb out of a gap that’s located to the left of the clutch, and lots of trim you hide wiring in. That little shelf is dead handy though!


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[SnoopyD]

Thanks guys, I was expecting the routing to be a lot harder - I didn't realise there was a hole straight through to that tray!

All working now, but I had some issues. The Connects2 CTSVW002.2 made a hissing noise on install then never produced a switched live (although saw other forum users had issues with it too so should've expected it). I've got a CTHUP-VW01 coming this week so hopefully that'll actually provide CAN BUS functionality. In the meantime I'm running a 'dumb' Quadlock to ISO harness of which I spliced the switched live into the permanent live.

However, for Android Auto I need to ground the parking brake sensor. Would it be okay to splice this into the ground of the adapter harness, rather than to a mounting point somewhere? I'm trying to work out whether there's any reason this would be a bad idea? I measured a ~3.1V difference between the parking brake and black ground cable (vs 12.5V between live and ground), but the parking break's only looking for a signal so shouldn't be providing any extra current which would overload the cable, right?

[PugBrothers]

That’s what I did and it worked fine for me. Hopefully smarter people than me agree that’s the best way forward!


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[SnoopyD]

That’s what I did and it worked fine for me. Hopefully smarter people than me agree that’s the best way forward!


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Great, good to know it's a viable option.

My Connects2 CTHUP-VW01 arrived and seems to be working well on my '07 9N3 (after reconnecting it once to get it to register). The handbrake wire on it works well with Android Auto too.

It has a couple of weird quirks in that connecting to Android Auto seems to cause dark mode to be auto-engaged, and unplugging the key doesn't auto-disable the switched live but requires manual powering off of the HU.

Great to have it all working now though. Very happy with the XAV-AX100 too (will edit with a pic tomorrow!)

[SnoopyD]

Great, good to know it's a viable option.

My Connects2 CTHUP-VW01 arrived and seems to be working well on my '07 9N3 (after reconnecting it once to get it to register). The handbrake wire on it works well with Android Auto too.

It has a couple of weird quirks in that connecting to Android Auto seems to cause dark mode to be auto-engaged, and unplugging the key doesn't auto-disable the switched live but requires manual powering off of the HU.

Great to have it all working now though. Very happy with the XAV-AX100 too (will edit with a pic tomorrow!)

Managed to sort out the auto-dark mode issue (kind of). Turns out the illumination wire is always on 12V even when the ignition's off. I'm presuming this is an issue with the Connects2 CAN BUS adapter, so I've just disconnected those wires for now but will get in touch with their support.

The HU still doesn't auto-turn off when the key's unplugged either. However, if I power it off manually via the HU then the switched live does recognise this and drops to 0V.

[PugBrothers]

That’s unusual that it won’t auto turn off after the key is removed. It looks like quite a common issue when you google it. That said, no real harm if it turns off properly from the HU and isn’t drawing from the battery. Looks really, really smart. Nice work!


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[ironkerton]

I cannot get the original head unit out. Got 4 keys (mildly dodgy generic euro ones). One bit is clicked in and wiggles a bit but this is not moving!

Any ideas?

[Bepis]

Also found this:

VW CAN-Bus Multimedia Interface for the Integration of Car Radios and Sat Navs for VW Golf - Passat - Touran - Jetta - Polo - Tiguan - Touareg - Sharan - Scirocco - T5 - Transporter https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N7W5TEE/ ... TDbE0ZT2CH

This sort of looks like it does everything and eliminates any need of soldering stuff / opening the fuse box and adding in any new bits - am I right in thinking if I just plug this in and hook it up the head unit will work?


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Just wanted to confirm that this adapter is essentially plug and play with an ISO to DIN adapter on single DIN radios.
Link to the ISO-DIN adapter I used: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

Everything tucks in behind the climate controls quite nicely and with there being no cable operated temperature dial the quadlock connector and CAN bus box (if that's its name) fit down there. Arial also fits down the right side but routes easier if kept to the left side of the blower position selector cable.

[Bepis]

Does anyone know is these are the correct part numbers for the single DIN pocket?
I found 6Q0857058C1QB as "stowage compartment" (Black) labeled 12
1J0857725C as "intermediate plate" labeled 11
6Q0858167A9B9 "insert for stowage compartment" (satin black) labedled 14

Edit: Seems 6Q0857058C1QB is the part number for a glovebox but 6Q0857058C is for the radio pocket