I've had a go at removing one of the headlight units, and also at one of the daylight-running unit (DRU) below it, on my 2017 Polo 6R Match Edition 1.2, as a move toward completing a list of all bulbs on the vehicle. If I succeed in this I'll be able to buy and keep spare bulbs to hand. Unfortunately, I had no luck (at least, not on this occasion). Anyone got any useful tips about this?
I worked on the righthand one. Looking very carefully, it appears that the headlight unit that I've got on the vehicle is the H7 variant 2, as shown on p.220 of the Driver's Manual. The emphasis is on "carefully", as certainly on this unit it's not easy to spot the no.1 rubber cover indicating where the dipped beam bulb sits - you have to look right down the side of the inner valance, at the bottom end of the rainwater gulley, as it were.
There was a label on the unit nearby, with this on it:
H7 LL
W5W
WY21W
Hella 6C2-941-006-B
1LB 012 034 04
LES
AD
1DS
This kinda suggested that there were just three bulbs in the headlight unit, but from the front I could clearly see four. The unit's lens assembly on mine appears to be separated into three partitions:
one containing what looks like an H7 bulb and a separate small, clear filament bulb adjacent (innermost partition).
one containing what looks like another H7 but using a meshed 'guard' in front of the bulb (outer partition).
one containing an amber direction indicator filament bulb (inner, lower partition).
The quite separate DRU, below, seems to have two partitions:
one containing a large clear filament bulb (outer partition).
the other containing another H7-type bulb but using a 'cut-out' guard in front of the bulb (inner partition).
Anyone recognise these as being the same as on their vehicle?
Obviously, the amber filament bulb is a WY21W, and the small clear filament bulb's a W5W. At this stage, I can only presume they're both bayonet types.
The Driver's Manual's description of how to remove these units to change the bulbs makes it seem virtually a doddle, but it was far from that! As with the clusters at the rear of the vehicle, VW doesn't want the average joe messing around with the headlights; damage to them could result; and from my own experience, yes there are definitely several things to watch out for. Therefore, VW don't make the exercise very easy to perform, and indeed the Manual recommends that this be done always by a VW workshop. What doesn't help, of course, is not having a more-detailed description of the procedure, and in particular one that accounts for minor changes in the design of these units that have subsequently been made.
I started by marking the precise positions of the top torx screws, so that on re-fitting of the headlight unit I could get it back to pretty much the same original position on the metal support. I used a chinagraph pencil for this, something that wouldn't marr any of the paintwork but which wouldn't rub off easily. The Manual then said to push down on the unit to release it from its lower guides, but as far as I could tell there was no leeway to do any pushing down and no sign of any guides. Sure, I could have put something into the edges of the unit to lever it out, but blindly doing that would likely crack the unit or damage surrounding metalwork. With the unit left in situ, I found it was just about possible to remove the main beam bulb (presumed to be an H7; I didn't fully unclip it), but that's about all.
As for the DRU, the Manual states that the plastic trim around it has to be removed first of all and suggests using the supplied roadwheel hook to pull the trim away from one side. I couldn't get the trim to budge much at all, though, and again didn't force it for fear of breaking something. What I did find while doing this (and you have to look with a torch especially carefully) was an additional deep aperture in the trim, at the bottom of which was a torx screw. So, I suspect that that screw holds most of that bit of trim in place; it's possibly not just clipped on. The size of the torx was somewhere between 25 and 30, though. Although I've quite a selection of torx screwdrivers and bits myself, none would fit down that aperture or on to the screw head itself.
This may well be another case of 'once you've done it for the first time, after that it becomes easier'. I live to fight another day. Anyone had similar difficulties?
Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
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iichel
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
It has two H7 bulbs, for low and high beam.
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RUM4MO
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
Just a quick comment, W5W is a wedge, WY21W is also a wedge - or capless bulb.
Have you tried using that site that was suggested in an earlier posting on the rear cluster thread?
Edit:- strictly speaking, "wedge" is a description reserved for another form of bulb, these car bulbs are normally known as "capless" - which is an accurate description as they don't have a cap
Also you can find the W5W being listed as a type 501 with a VW Group p/n N 017 753 5 and, the WY21W being listed as a type 585 with a VW Group p/n N 107 244 01 and the W21W being listed as a 582 with a VW Group p/n N 107 244 02
Another Edit:- after reading the owner's handbook, and finally finding the point where the puller could be fitted into, I then looked under the bonnet and identified the two Torx headed screws - and then considered that all the hard work had been done - probably the same as you thought! Now you have changed all that, oh bother!! One thing, I had always meant to check how to remove the plastic trim from the foglights on my Audi S4 so that if and when I needed to replace these bulbs I'd know that it would be easy - I never ever did that, until I need to remove the front bumper to add front OPS to that car, I failed to move either of them, so when the bumper was off I punched them out from the rear - and that took a lot of doing, but at least I have a clear idea of what is retaining them and where they are being retained!!
https://nemiga.com/cat_spares/etka/
Have you tried using that site that was suggested in an earlier posting on the rear cluster thread?
Edit:- strictly speaking, "wedge" is a description reserved for another form of bulb, these car bulbs are normally known as "capless" - which is an accurate description as they don't have a cap
Also you can find the W5W being listed as a type 501 with a VW Group p/n N 017 753 5 and, the WY21W being listed as a type 585 with a VW Group p/n N 107 244 01 and the W21W being listed as a 582 with a VW Group p/n N 107 244 02
Another Edit:- after reading the owner's handbook, and finally finding the point where the puller could be fitted into, I then looked under the bonnet and identified the two Torx headed screws - and then considered that all the hard work had been done - probably the same as you thought! Now you have changed all that, oh bother!! One thing, I had always meant to check how to remove the plastic trim from the foglights on my Audi S4 so that if and when I needed to replace these bulbs I'd know that it would be easy - I never ever did that, until I need to remove the front bumper to add front OPS to that car, I failed to move either of them, so when the bumper was off I punched them out from the rear - and that took a lot of doing, but at least I have a clear idea of what is retaining them and where they are being retained!!
https://nemiga.com/cat_spares/etka/
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veteran
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
iichel,
Yeh, that'd figure, now you've pointed it out. Thanks.
Rum4mo,
The W5Ws in my headlight units are definitely not wedge types. From the front, I can see that they're instead conventional types. Incidentally, what I myself recognise as a 'wedge' is what I prefer to call a 'wired wedge' - because, for me, an automotive wedge bulb is usually a glass envelope that uses just folded-over wires at its base, rather than a circular metal cap with two solder blobs.
Many thanks for pointing out the etka site. I didn't know about that. I've since had a look and though some of the drawings are jolly useful, the parts for my particular Polo aren't shown. I even checked by inputting my VIN no., but the response was that parts couldn't be shown because they weren't in the etka database. The drawings that refer to the 2015 Polo - the latest that are there - do nevertheless give me, in some instances, a pretty good idea as to how various bits go together. I think this is again a case of my Polo just being too new as yet, with VW having made some minor variations to the 1.2 Match Edition (UK market) since 2015.
Under the front of the car, do you have an overall plastic cover over the sump and gearbox? I have one, and it's held in place by about a dozen screws. I've a feeling that if that were removed there might be a useful view revealed of the back of the grille-trim, and of the DR unit also. I've car ramps, but I won't be investigating that just yet, as my backpain's terrible at present.
Regarding these headlights/DR lights, I'm sure you and I will get there in the end. It'll be just a matter of knowing the precise removal technique. After all, the two of us almost gave up on the rear clusters, didn't we? But with a bit of discussion and additional confidence, we later succeeded.
Yeh, that'd figure, now you've pointed it out. Thanks.
Rum4mo,
The W5Ws in my headlight units are definitely not wedge types. From the front, I can see that they're instead conventional types. Incidentally, what I myself recognise as a 'wedge' is what I prefer to call a 'wired wedge' - because, for me, an automotive wedge bulb is usually a glass envelope that uses just folded-over wires at its base, rather than a circular metal cap with two solder blobs.
Many thanks for pointing out the etka site. I didn't know about that. I've since had a look and though some of the drawings are jolly useful, the parts for my particular Polo aren't shown. I even checked by inputting my VIN no., but the response was that parts couldn't be shown because they weren't in the etka database. The drawings that refer to the 2015 Polo - the latest that are there - do nevertheless give me, in some instances, a pretty good idea as to how various bits go together. I think this is again a case of my Polo just being too new as yet, with VW having made some minor variations to the 1.2 Match Edition (UK market) since 2015.
Under the front of the car, do you have an overall plastic cover over the sump and gearbox? I have one, and it's held in place by about a dozen screws. I've a feeling that if that were removed there might be a useful view revealed of the back of the grille-trim, and of the DR unit also. I've car ramps, but I won't be investigating that just yet, as my backpain's terrible at present.
Regarding these headlights/DR lights, I'm sure you and I will get there in the end. It'll be just a matter of knowing the precise removal technique. After all, the two of us almost gave up on the rear clusters, didn't we? But with a bit of discussion and additional confidence, we later succeeded.
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RUM4MO
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
veteran, maybe try the parts listing that ciclo pointed to back in page 1 of the "rear cluster" thread as I seem to remember it is or claims to be up to date as it does offer access to "H" ie 2017 car stuff.
For all my messing about with cars, so far I seem to have resisted removing the lower engine cover on my wife's Polo, I have taken apart its brakes and cleaned them up prior to its "year 2" service, but that was done to stop any reports of "brakes need cleaning, please rebook this car for this additional work" ! If I take it off I'll feel obliged to clean up the subframe etc and apply some smooth black Hammerite paint to slow down the advance of the dreaded rust bug, I'll probably do that round about end of October when I swop over to 15" winter alloys with Alpin tyres.
I thought that the diagrams confirmed that W5W were wedge based bulbs - I am old enough to have used these types of bulbs on an Instomatic camera for flash!! (prior to flash cubes appearing) - something odd there as you have read "W5W" off a label on these lights, so I'd expect that you would find that they are wedge/capless.
I think that I need to start doing the same exorcise on my 2011 Audi S4, now that you have started or "pushed the button" on this topic!
Something else to do is to record the code on the security key for the wheel nuts - though I'd expect if you are someone that is covering preparing for a bulb failure in the future, you will probably have already have wised up to that one - before, as others have done waiting until the security key has gone missing at tyre changing time!
Edited to correct "F" to "H"
For all my messing about with cars, so far I seem to have resisted removing the lower engine cover on my wife's Polo, I have taken apart its brakes and cleaned them up prior to its "year 2" service, but that was done to stop any reports of "brakes need cleaning, please rebook this car for this additional work" ! If I take it off I'll feel obliged to clean up the subframe etc and apply some smooth black Hammerite paint to slow down the advance of the dreaded rust bug, I'll probably do that round about end of October when I swop over to 15" winter alloys with Alpin tyres.
I thought that the diagrams confirmed that W5W were wedge based bulbs - I am old enough to have used these types of bulbs on an Instomatic camera for flash!! (prior to flash cubes appearing) - something odd there as you have read "W5W" off a label on these lights, so I'd expect that you would find that they are wedge/capless.
I think that I need to start doing the same exorcise on my 2011 Audi S4, now that you have started or "pushed the button" on this topic!
Something else to do is to record the code on the security key for the wheel nuts - though I'd expect if you are someone that is covering preparing for a bulb failure in the future, you will probably have already have wised up to that one - before, as others have done waiting until the security key has gone missing at tyre changing time!
Edited to correct "F" to "H"
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veteran
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
I've found NO code as such on my locking-type wheelnut socket-piece. I've had the thing under a microscope and the only thing I found engraved on it was a single 'V'. But it was at the back of the inside of the socket-piece!! Go figure.
I've had my undertray off. It was quite easy but meant crawling under the front of the car, with it on ramps. I did that about a week ago, as I'd found the engine overfilled with oil. So, I drained some off, which meant removing that tray to get at the sump-plug. Even having drawn some off, there's to my mind still too much in. It's now right on max on the dipstick. Level's probably okay now (just about).
Concerning your subframes, I know Hammerite's good stuff but why don't you use some waxoyl instead? Forget about trying to make the subframes look pretty. Just basically protect them from the dreaded rust. You can apply waxoyl straight on to rusted surfaces, if need be. You know, using waxoyl (with care, obviously) - and doing all my own servicing and repairs - I kept my old Mk3 Golf in good nick for 23 years. When I bought the Polo I sold the Golf to a young nephew of mine (for a song). If he looks after it anything like as well as I did, it'll last at least another five years. The VW dealers I visited were astonished at its age. No gismos on that, just an ECU controlling the combustion, on which it did a very fine job.
I've had my undertray off. It was quite easy but meant crawling under the front of the car, with it on ramps. I did that about a week ago, as I'd found the engine overfilled with oil. So, I drained some off, which meant removing that tray to get at the sump-plug. Even having drawn some off, there's to my mind still too much in. It's now right on max on the dipstick. Level's probably okay now (just about).
Concerning your subframes, I know Hammerite's good stuff but why don't you use some waxoyl instead? Forget about trying to make the subframes look pretty. Just basically protect them from the dreaded rust. You can apply waxoyl straight on to rusted surfaces, if need be. You know, using waxoyl (with care, obviously) - and doing all my own servicing and repairs - I kept my old Mk3 Golf in good nick for 23 years. When I bought the Polo I sold the Golf to a young nephew of mine (for a song). If he looks after it anything like as well as I did, it'll last at least another five years. The VW dealers I visited were astonished at its age. No gismos on that, just an ECU controlling the combustion, on which it did a very fine job.
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RUM4MO
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
I'll look at the security key on my wife's Polo and see where the code is, but from looking at my records for that car it is a single upper case letter F, so your V might be okay, check up on that VW parts listing as these keys can be bought individually, so if V is a valid code it will be available to buy a new one.
Waxoyl, yes I used that for many years on Fords, even mixed it in with Holts underseal or Tetrosyl before they started selling it ready mixed in - many happy(?) hours spent applying that stuff, still use spray cans under the front wheel arches inside the inners. I'm probably being naive thinking that I can keep on top of rust on these areas painted black, but I still try!
Trouble is that there was a time that cars definitely needed Waxoyled or they would dissolve, then things improved, but now I feel that Waxoyl has again got a part to play. After I got annoyed with Waxoyl's first version of a sprayer I bought a couple of Hozlok garden sprayers cheap at the end of the gardening season, fitted a over to the pump on one, modified the other to serve as an air pressure supply to the first, that worked well and was easy to clean afterwards, I still use the second one as a source of air pressure to use with Gunsons Easybleed!
Trouble with most modern cars is keeping water out of them as that will cause serious problems as it rots the wiring especially at any nodes/joints, that has happened to my old Passat it seems, at 17+ years old it is causing its current owner problems which he'd like me to help fix - no thanks, he ignored these issues when they were fixable one at a time!
Waxoyl, yes I used that for many years on Fords, even mixed it in with Holts underseal or Tetrosyl before they started selling it ready mixed in - many happy(?) hours spent applying that stuff, still use spray cans under the front wheel arches inside the inners. I'm probably being naive thinking that I can keep on top of rust on these areas painted black, but I still try!
Trouble is that there was a time that cars definitely needed Waxoyled or they would dissolve, then things improved, but now I feel that Waxoyl has again got a part to play. After I got annoyed with Waxoyl's first version of a sprayer I bought a couple of Hozlok garden sprayers cheap at the end of the gardening season, fitted a over to the pump on one, modified the other to serve as an air pressure supply to the first, that worked well and was easy to clean afterwards, I still use the second one as a source of air pressure to use with Gunsons Easybleed!
Trouble with most modern cars is keeping water out of them as that will cause serious problems as it rots the wiring especially at any nodes/joints, that has happened to my old Passat it seems, at 17+ years old it is causing its current owner problems which he'd like me to help fix - no thanks, he ignored these issues when they were fixable one at a time!
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veteran
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
Rum4mo,
I just twigged what you meant about the driver's lock on the rear doors of your wife's Polo. I thought you were describing the outside of the door, ie. at the door handle. But I now realise you were referring to the locks in the side, opening edge of the door. Errh, doh! Yeh, there are some (rather loose-fitting) rubber bungs covering those keyslots.
Now, a further but quick query. On the back of the headlight units of your SA Polo, is the electrical connector, supplying the entire unit, equipped with a rubber cover of any sort, or are the two parts of that connector, together with the colour-coded wires, left exposed? There's no rubber cover on mine. The impression I get from the Driver's Manual is that that connector is supposed to have a rubber cover and which it is important to keep in place, to keep out moisture from entering the headlight unit. See VW's comments under the 'Notice' section, on p.219 of the Manual for the SA Polo. That's under the bigger section entitled 'Removing and installing the headlights'. Possibly, your Manual might not be quite so up-to-date as mine. My edition is the Nov 2016 one.
I just twigged what you meant about the driver's lock on the rear doors of your wife's Polo. I thought you were describing the outside of the door, ie. at the door handle. But I now realise you were referring to the locks in the side, opening edge of the door. Errh, doh! Yeh, there are some (rather loose-fitting) rubber bungs covering those keyslots.
Now, a further but quick query. On the back of the headlight units of your SA Polo, is the electrical connector, supplying the entire unit, equipped with a rubber cover of any sort, or are the two parts of that connector, together with the colour-coded wires, left exposed? There's no rubber cover on mine. The impression I get from the Driver's Manual is that that connector is supposed to have a rubber cover and which it is important to keep in place, to keep out moisture from entering the headlight unit. See VW's comments under the 'Notice' section, on p.219 of the Manual for the SA Polo. That's under the bigger section entitled 'Removing and installing the headlights'. Possibly, your Manual might not be quite so up-to-date as mine. My edition is the Nov 2016 one.
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RUM4MO
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
Yes the main connector is left with the colour coded wiring exposed until it disappears inside the wrapping tape, but, these connectors are fit for this environment and will have built in gaskets to seal the plug <> socket when mated and to seal these individual wires as they pass through that plug, including sealing blanks being fitted to unused terminals, so the moisture should not get in that way.
I've checked the wheel bolt security key and yes the only indication is that the hex end has been identified using a metal stamp - though I hope that I don't need to replace that one as it is either E or F, maybe I should get the local VW dealer to check which it is from their master set of security keys as that might save a bit of money later??
Edit:- I've now looked at the EKTA parts listing and there is no entry for replacement wheel bolt security keys now! I was just looking to see if that list included V for your benefit - ebay normally has someone selling replacements and they would list "V" if it existed - that would mean that VW Group now have quite an extensive range of security keys, I thought that they would stick with about 12 or so and leave it to luck that "I" would not have the same key as "you" so wheels would not get stolen! It is a bit disappointing that these "manual locking access points" get covered by loose grommets, I might get bored and check the diameter of the hole in the doors of my S4 and compare that with the doors on wife's Polo.
I've checked the wheel bolt security key and yes the only indication is that the hex end has been identified using a metal stamp - though I hope that I don't need to replace that one as it is either E or F, maybe I should get the local VW dealer to check which it is from their master set of security keys as that might save a bit of money later??
Edit:- I've now looked at the EKTA parts listing and there is no entry for replacement wheel bolt security keys now! I was just looking to see if that list included V for your benefit - ebay normally has someone selling replacements and they would list "V" if it existed - that would mean that VW Group now have quite an extensive range of security keys, I thought that they would stick with about 12 or so and leave it to luck that "I" would not have the same key as "you" so wheels would not get stolen! It is a bit disappointing that these "manual locking access points" get covered by loose grommets, I might get bored and check the diameter of the hole in the doors of my S4 and compare that with the doors on wife's Polo.
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veteran
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
Are you going to have another go at getting the headlight unit out? I think the nearest component assembly to mine, on the ekta site, is here:
https://nemiga.com/cat_spares/etka/volk ... 766/941100
(www.nemiga.com/img/catalogs/etka/st/672941100.png)
When I tried to get mine out the other day I assumed that the grey 'plinth' (the bottom component numbered 21 in that diagram) was an integral part of the headlight lens unit, but I can see now that it probably isn't. They're separate parts. At present, I think the headlight lens unit won't pop out because it's being held by two locators, probably sprung ones of similar design to the one found in the rear cluster on the vehicle, in that plinth. If you look carefully, there appears to be a double-slot on the left and a single slot over on the right. Those might be the very locators, and the headlight might simply be a tight fit in them.
I can't figure out what items 5, 17, 20 and 16 are all about, though. Perhaps they're for holding the plinth on to the bumper?
https://nemiga.com/cat_spares/etka/volk ... 766/941100
(www.nemiga.com/img/catalogs/etka/st/672941100.png)
When I tried to get mine out the other day I assumed that the grey 'plinth' (the bottom component numbered 21 in that diagram) was an integral part of the headlight lens unit, but I can see now that it probably isn't. They're separate parts. At present, I think the headlight lens unit won't pop out because it's being held by two locators, probably sprung ones of similar design to the one found in the rear cluster on the vehicle, in that plinth. If you look carefully, there appears to be a double-slot on the left and a single slot over on the right. Those might be the very locators, and the headlight might simply be a tight fit in them.
I can't figure out what items 5, 17, 20 and 16 are all about, though. Perhaps they're for holding the plinth on to the bumper?
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RUM4MO
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
That parts listing that you are using, I think that it is not completely up to date, but the one below is, maybe going forward start using the one I've listed below that ciclo pointed us to recently:-
https://ifinterface.com/page/page3.php?langid=2
Click on Carprog2 and take it from there.
https://ifinterface.com/page/page3.php?langid=2
Click on Carprog2 and take it from there.
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veteran
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
Rum4mo,
I followed your advice.
That piece that I called a 'plinth' is referred to in the ifinterface drawings as a 'mounting for mainbeam headlight'.
Unfortunately, as regards a drawing for my headlight and for the daytime-running/fog light assembly, I couldn't find anything nearer to what I have for the headlight, but I found a drawing for the dr/foglight assembly which I'm sure is exactly mine. Possibly, that concealed Torx screw I found earlier isn't Torx after all, it might be a 5X16 hex skt. Mind you, it could be a T27 torx. Trouble is, the head of it is down a bit of a deep hole. Can't really tell if you can get the piece of grille escutcheon off without undoing that.
These were all under the Electrical Wiring category, BTW.
I had to use the Polo >> (up until the present) menu. This gave parts listings that certainly included some 2017 ones, under the submenu 6Rxxxxx.
So usefully, I've now managed to glean from the various drawings and parts descriptions the set of bulbs that I have at the front. They're:
Headlight unit -
55W longlife halogen (highbeam)
55W longlife halogen (dipped beam)
W5W longlife clear filament bulb (sidelight)
PY21W longlife amber filament bulb (direction indicator)
Foglight/DR Lights unit -
35W halogen (fog)
P21W clear filament bulb (daytime running)
I'd say that the P21W daytime running bulb will be the most likely to fail first, so I think it'll still be necessary to find the knack of removing either that particular unit or the headlight one as well, in order that the likes of you and me can readily replace the bulb. Maybe, as before, I'm just not being brave enough to pull at and withdraw the headlight lens and the grille-escutcheon?
I followed your advice.
That piece that I called a 'plinth' is referred to in the ifinterface drawings as a 'mounting for mainbeam headlight'.
Unfortunately, as regards a drawing for my headlight and for the daytime-running/fog light assembly, I couldn't find anything nearer to what I have for the headlight, but I found a drawing for the dr/foglight assembly which I'm sure is exactly mine. Possibly, that concealed Torx screw I found earlier isn't Torx after all, it might be a 5X16 hex skt. Mind you, it could be a T27 torx. Trouble is, the head of it is down a bit of a deep hole. Can't really tell if you can get the piece of grille escutcheon off without undoing that.
These were all under the Electrical Wiring category, BTW.
I had to use the Polo >> (up until the present) menu. This gave parts listings that certainly included some 2017 ones, under the submenu 6Rxxxxx.
So usefully, I've now managed to glean from the various drawings and parts descriptions the set of bulbs that I have at the front. They're:
Headlight unit -
55W longlife halogen (highbeam)
55W longlife halogen (dipped beam)
W5W longlife clear filament bulb (sidelight)
PY21W longlife amber filament bulb (direction indicator)
Foglight/DR Lights unit -
35W halogen (fog)
P21W clear filament bulb (daytime running)
I'd say that the P21W daytime running bulb will be the most likely to fail first, so I think it'll still be necessary to find the knack of removing either that particular unit or the headlight one as well, in order that the likes of you and me can readily replace the bulb. Maybe, as before, I'm just not being brave enough to pull at and withdraw the headlight lens and the grille-escutcheon?
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RUM4MO
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
I think that that is my next task this afternoon!
I'd be very wary about moving any screw that is deeply recessed just in case it is the aim adjustment for that fog light?
I'd be very wary about moving any screw that is deeply recessed just in case it is the aim adjustment for that fog light?
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RUM4MO
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
Ah well, I could not muster enough aggression to get the headlight cluster out, I thought hitting the rear parts with my fist might just be enough - no! So I've left that one alone and gone back to check up on what Haynes suggests and it says:- undo the two mounting bolts and then pull the headlight unit forward, releasing it from the lower securing clips. I can't see where, at the front or anywhere round the sides, top or bottom, that you can pull it forward - as tipping it down only increases the probability of damaging any paintwork and or breaking off these retaining lugs, I'd think that it MUST be pulled straight forward by grabbing it - but where.
Somebody on this forum must have done this already, if only to fit LEDs and/or better bulbs!
Edit:- I even started to remove the centre grill to see if that improves visibility or any other obvious clues, but I had not red up on how to remove that so got the top two fixing screws out and started to unclip it at the top then things became a bit too tight for me to consider going on any more without finding I needed to buy a new grill!
Another Edit:- Mr Haynes only mentions removing that centre grill part AFTER the bumper has been removed, so maybe just as well I stopped before things became a bit nasty there! One thing to note here, Haynes says to remove the headlights BEFORE starting to remove the bumper, so taking the bumper off will never be an option to seeing how things should come apart!
Somebody on this forum must have done this already, if only to fit LEDs and/or better bulbs!
Edit:- I even started to remove the centre grill to see if that improves visibility or any other obvious clues, but I had not red up on how to remove that so got the top two fixing screws out and started to unclip it at the top then things became a bit too tight for me to consider going on any more without finding I needed to buy a new grill!
Another Edit:- Mr Haynes only mentions removing that centre grill part AFTER the bumper has been removed, so maybe just as well I stopped before things became a bit nasty there! One thing to note here, Haynes says to remove the headlights BEFORE starting to remove the bumper, so taking the bumper off will never be an option to seeing how things should come apart!
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veteran
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Re: Polo 6R/6C rear clusters sorted, but what about the front?
I can't see where, at the front or anywhere round the sides, top or bottom, that you can pull it forward - as tipping it down only increases the probability of damaging any paintwork and or breaking off these retaining lugs, I'd think that it MUST be pulled straight forward by grabbing it - but where.
My thoughts entirely. I concluded exactly the same. That said, I thought my rear cluster, when I was doing that, would never come away, but in the end I managed to find where its sprung locator pin fitted into the car's bodywork and was then able to tease the cluster away using a screwdriver blade with a cloth over it.
Just bear in mind that if you can't do it, then a VW workshop techie will be faced with exactly the same problem! So, if sometime you had to book the car in in order to have, say, one of the 21W daytime running bulbs replaced and the techie took 2 or 3 hours to remove the headlight unit (so as to get enough purchase on the foglight/DR unit), you'd doubtless be in for one heck of a bill - all for the sake of a bulb that probably costs less than a couple of quid.
Re the foglight/DR light assembly removal difficulty, this is why, earlier, I summised whether removing the undertray would make for a more useful, rear view of it.
And re your comment about the foglight aim, jeez you might be right. I'll have to see whether there's a similar deep hole on the lefthand side. I'm not sure whether I managed to move that screw at all, though. Sometime soon, I'll have to find a level bit of road outside my place and generally check the aim of all the front lights.
Possibly, items 5,17, 20 and 16 are involved in holding the base of the headlight lens to the bumper? One of the items is a screw.
The only other thing I can think of to try is to undo and remove the righthand metallic brace between the front of the car and the front side-valance (the bit connecting the front to the side of the car that carries the headlight's two top screws). With that out of the way, it might then allow the headlight lens assembly to be lifted up and finally out. It might be that the old Haynes and even the Polo Driver's Manual haven't got the procedure quite right. That brace, though, might be under some considerable lateral tension, so undoing it might need to be done with some caution.
My thoughts entirely. I concluded exactly the same. That said, I thought my rear cluster, when I was doing that, would never come away, but in the end I managed to find where its sprung locator pin fitted into the car's bodywork and was then able to tease the cluster away using a screwdriver blade with a cloth over it.
Just bear in mind that if you can't do it, then a VW workshop techie will be faced with exactly the same problem! So, if sometime you had to book the car in in order to have, say, one of the 21W daytime running bulbs replaced and the techie took 2 or 3 hours to remove the headlight unit (so as to get enough purchase on the foglight/DR unit), you'd doubtless be in for one heck of a bill - all for the sake of a bulb that probably costs less than a couple of quid.
Re the foglight/DR light assembly removal difficulty, this is why, earlier, I summised whether removing the undertray would make for a more useful, rear view of it.
And re your comment about the foglight aim, jeez you might be right. I'll have to see whether there's a similar deep hole on the lefthand side. I'm not sure whether I managed to move that screw at all, though. Sometime soon, I'll have to find a level bit of road outside my place and generally check the aim of all the front lights.
Possibly, items 5,17, 20 and 16 are involved in holding the base of the headlight lens to the bumper? One of the items is a screw.
The only other thing I can think of to try is to undo and remove the righthand metallic brace between the front of the car and the front side-valance (the bit connecting the front to the side of the car that carries the headlight's two top screws). With that out of the way, it might then allow the headlight lens assembly to be lifted up and finally out. It might be that the old Haynes and even the Polo Driver's Manual haven't got the procedure quite right. That brace, though, might be under some considerable lateral tension, so undoing it might need to be done with some caution.