Changing Oil Filter (POLO SE/6R 2010) (where is it?!)

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RUM4MO
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Re: Changing Oil Filter (POLO SE/6R 2010) (where is it?!)

Post by RUM4MO »

Changing a head gasket on an iron side valve or over head valve engine is easy peasy, don't assume that that job is easy on a modern alloy engine with things like cam shafts at the top of the engine, take it slowly listen and learn - and replace your tool kit, nothing is impossible.

The problems come with the fact that a lot of the old issues that engines had have gone and new ones have taken their place, its called progress, I think!

Edit:- these old 1.4 16V engines can be very reliable and are alloy top and iron bottom, so normally no need to get the head off etc - ancillaries might cause problems eventually though.
TomRoberts
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Re: Changing Oil Filter (POLO SE/6R 2010) (where is it?!)

Post by TomRoberts »

Hey all

I managed to find it. It's at the front. You have to do it from underneath but it's in an awkward place tbh. Managed to remove the old one after a bit of swearing. Also changed the oil obviously which has made a huge difference. It's like a new car! Only thing is I've spooked lots of oil on the manifold and despite my best wiping it's still smoking a little. Leftist to idle for a while and it's stopped now thankfully but keeping an eye out in case the oil filter is leaking or something. I think the light would probably come on if the pressure was too low anyway.
RUM4MO
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Re: Changing Oil Filter (POLO SE/6R 2010) (where is it?!)

Post by RUM4MO »

Exactly, that is where i said it was - "it's at the front"!

I've always replaced it from the top as working from below at the angles your arms would need to get into is only going to be doable if you have a pit or a car hoist, with just 18"/24" to play with it will always be nasty from below.

It is good to replace the drain plug/washer combo at every other oil change as the sealing washer is alloy I think.

What filter did you fit and what oil did you use?
TomRoberts
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Re: Changing Oil Filter (POLO SE/6R 2010) (where is it?!)

Post by TomRoberts »

RUM4MO wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:04 am Exactly, that is where i said it was - "it's at the front"!

I've always replaced it from the top as working from below at the angles your arms would need to get into is only going to be doable if you have a pit or a car hoist, with just 18"/24" to play with it will always be nasty from below.

It is good to replace the drain plug/washer combo at every other oil change as the sealing washer is alloy I think.

What filter did you fit and what oil did you use?
Sorry if I came across as an arse lol

Anyway thanks again for your help.

I used a bosch filter and i used 'Comma XTC5L 5L XTech Fully Synthetic 5W30 Motor Oil ' which was from amazon.

I know it's not castrol, but it's 40% cheaper than castrol..

Also with the oil filter change, i only realised afterward - it said not to use a tool to tighten the new filter, but i did use a tool as my hand was too slippy with oil to tighten it otherwise - i didnt overtighten it as far as i know and i havent dented the new filter just scratched the outside a little - do you think that is ok?
RUM4MO
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Re: Changing Oil Filter (POLO SE/6R 2010) (where is it?!)

Post by RUM4MO »

I'm guessing that you filled the new filter with oil so there would be no way that you could tighten it by hand as the oil would be proving that it is a lubricant!

Maybe to due tricky access when doing this from above, I've always used a socket to nip it up a bit so I'd doubt if that would cause any issues - I remember reading a tale about some newer Fords that used these disposable canister filters, and Ford also gave that advice only to hand tighten them, unfortunately it seemed that Ford's oil filter supplier was going through a bad patch and was using the wrong material for the top seal - result being that oil filters were unscrewing on the car/vans - now that is not too handy!

Oil, never used Castrol since the old GTX days and my VX dealer sold it at a very good price, I tend to use Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 - yes I know that for annual servicing it should be 5W-40 of a lower grade, but I'm happy to use the LL 5W-30 stuff and replace at 12 months.

Up until now I've always used the VW Group branded filters, but now I seem to be changing to using the same manufacturer as VW Group use, normally Mann or Mahle and save a lot of money!

Edit:- I used to like to use Comma engine oil in a previous Fiesta my wife ran mainly as Comma had come up with a suitable oil where Ford dealers were maybe using a suitable oil in the workshop, but nothing suitable in the parts department!

Bosch oil filters, just my view based on "nothing but gut feelings" - I like Bosch parts where the manufacturer has used Bosch parts, even although sometimes that includes brake pads (in SEATs), but, as far as I know, Bosch have ever manufactured oil filters or brake pads, so they are just buying them in from another supplier with their branding on them, it is a funny old world!

One thing that you have not mentioned yet is - pollen filter, these car have one and they can get clogged up and end up being worse than no filter, so maybe check your one out and shake any debris out of it?

Another Edit:- you do know that you should really be using a VW approved oil type, that one is an old Ford spec'd oil - exactly the type I used in my wife's 1995 Fiesta with a 1.6 Zetec engine in it, but times have moved on, the VW spec for your engine on annual servicing is VW 502 - there is another Comma oil that fits that spec. Really I suppose that there is some/a lot of guff spoken/written about different oil types but I've always planned on using the approved type of oils in all my cars, if only to avoid future problems.
Ricmondo
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Re: Changing Oil Filter (POLO SE/6R 2010) (where is it?!)

Post by Ricmondo »

Not trying to put you down or be a smart arse but I’ve got a lot of experience with the BMC A series in all of its forms and I know many people who could change the head gasket but for some unfathomable reason could never get the oil filter sealing ring properly located on that engine or have inserted a new ring without removing the old one! I’ve had to help a lot of people completely rebuild those engines as a result of total loss of oil.

I have absolutely no doubt you will find the filter and successfully change it and find the correct Haynes manual, not ideal bedtime reading but very useful.

It’s always satisfying to do jobs yourself, do it now before the powers that be decide that all car engines must be sealed for life and only touched by certified experts in white coats, sadly I think its probably just a matter of time.
RUM4MO
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Re: Changing Oil Filter (POLO SE/6R 2010) (where is it?!)

Post by RUM4MO »

Ricmondo, "oil filter seals issues" - I am sure that I've read that that is still happening - and it is one of the VW Group engines it is happening to mainly, probably the ones that used the "ECO" filters - and maybe why things have returned to using tin can "all in one" filters again.

I've replaced the oil filter on my 2011 Audi S4 many times with no issues and that car has an "ECO" oil filter - though maybe later versions of cars had a "more involved" version of these "ECO" oil filters, and that might just have been one step too far as far as ending up with 100% success when replacing an oil filter. The problems being reported were always an indicated loss of oil pressure just after an oil change either at main dealer or mainly, at independent garages, normal recovery action was, remove oil filter locate and remove previous "extra" oil seal, refit filter.
Ricmondo
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Re: Changing Oil Filter (POLO SE/6R 2010) (where is it?!)

Post by Ricmondo »

You’d think after more than a century of making car engines they would be on top of oil filter problems wouldn’t you.

The old A series problem was a stinker. It was not difficult to insert a lubricated sealing ring in position but ignorance or ineptitude meant that sometimes they were not fitted snuggly. They would keep the oil in until the most inconvenient moment when the engine would dump the lot. If you didn’t notice the oil pressure warning light you could run all the bearings and wreck the crank in no time. A friend managed at great expense, more than he paid for the car in fact to get hold of a Formula Junior crank. Managed less than five miles before it turned to scrap.

Some of the first engines I played about with didn’t have an oil filter as such, just a mesh basket in the sump and crossed fingers. I’ve also played about with engines that had a total loss system, an oil tank supplied the motor and once it had done its job it just fell out of the bottom, it would be interesting to hear what the green lobby thought about that.

Sorry I can drone on for hours about engines of all sorts, just ask Mrs Ric, she’s had 50 years of it and almost managed to keep her sanity.
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