Timing Belt Replacement - Do you change studs ?

[Euler2]

Hi

I am going to replace my timing belt next week as well as pulleys and water pump.
My kit (INA 530020133) also contains 2 studs, one for the Tensioner and one for the idler pulley, some kits don't.
Do people change the studs or not bother as I have seen conflicting advice and INA have a video on explaining why they recommend.
Some on forums replace studs if the belt has been changed before, but not first replacement.
I am aware of possible nightmares with studs, but have a stud extraction/installation kit.
Any advice would be welcome.

Thanks

[littlepolo]

I've not done it on routine changes. When I rebuilt my BBY engine I did. But first, I would make sure the supplied studs are of at least equal quality to existing. If I recall correctly, torques are low and nuts/studs are not 'stretch' type as cylinder head, cam cover, etc., in which case I'd say not 100% necessary (especially of a pain to access).

[CarbonChaos]

If the kit manufacturers recommend replacement then replace them
It’s more about the tread in the block than the actual stud it’s self I believe as this can become streched when the tensioner is torqued up each time.I’ve seen the tensioner come loose due to this causing total engine failure the stud has been fine
A 2003 car has or should have had multiple belts by now.

[larry]

It’s more about the tread in the block than the actual stud it’s self I believe as this can become streched when the tensioner is torqued up each time

for example, lets say that the tensioner bolt is torqued at 20 nm. someone torques it 5-10 times at 18-20 nm, this will for sure cause thread stretch ?

[Euler2]

UPDATE:
I have completed all the work and the car seems to run fine.
Initially my cheap code reader kept telling me Cam Shaft Position Sensor 19463 P3007 G40, as a DIYer I don't have VCDS.
I have had the car from new and this is only the 2nd cam belt change it has had and has done 204000 miles.

I changed cam belt, tensioner, roller, studs, water pump, aux belt, aux belt tensioner, cam shaft position sensor. I replaced with new G13 coolant.
I bought a cheap locking kit on ebay and found markings on 2 crank lock tools wrong way around, but locked well and I tippexed correct one.
Cam lock pin was very tight but eventually went in, after checking with 6.5mm drill bit.

The garage that did my first water pump used white silicone on the o-ring seal, which I had to scrape off carefully. I didn't use the same on refit but used a small amount of plumbers silicone grease on o-ring to position it ( this is what is used on o-rings in central heating boilers so should be fine). I noticed tensioner pointer was not in guide markings and so had probably became slack over time.

Followed all the instructions on the downloaded PDFs (SKF is very good detail with all Torque settings) as Haynes manual is all over the place, also watching numerous Youtube videos helps. This is the first time I have done this and it was about time for the car. For the car all parts cost £140, using PartsinMotion as they also have numerous 20% discount days.

[larry]

are any of the belts tracking to the left ?

[Euler2]

My belt runs fine, no tracking to the left and the Camshaft position Sensor fault no longer appears on code reader.

My car is a AMF 1.4 TDI PD diesel, I assume you are referring to your post on 'belts tracking to the left'.

I believe your car is a BBY and the cambelt kit is different to mine and you used a DAYCO kit KTB347 looking at what you said.
A PDF guide can be found on their website on how to install the belts and tensioners if you type in the Product code KTB347.