Hi
Our 96 Polo (metalic navy) has some blistering on the wheel arches. Its not to bad yet and would like to get it put right.
Any ideas on approximate costs?
Thanks
Joe
Blistering wheel arches - fix cost?
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joebickley
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carmadaaron
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joebickley
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carmadaaron
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lol, ive had an mk4 and i really liked them.... come to think of it.. i miss itjoebickley wrote:Hmm that doesnt sound too bad. Thanks
Joe
PS i dont suppose u fancy swaping the car in your signature for a slightly rusting diesel polo, a tube of polos (in car) and about £4.87p do you? I reckon the missus might be impressed
i believe the rusting is a common problem, my friend got both his arches done (3dr polo 6n) but his rust came back just after a few months, so make sure the arches are rubbed down properly/and filled.
hope this helps
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joebickley
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Tahrey1043
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managed to sort it quite cheaply on mine, at least temporarily (newbie that i was, without garage access, made a pigs ear despite best efforts) - however make sure you
1. have the time and patience to make a proper job of it
2. have somewhere sheltered to do it! (side of the road where wind and rain can come on in an instant will KNACKER THE FINISH beleive me!)
3. get properly matched paint
4. know how to blend.
ingredients are
a starter de-rust / sander kit (from halfords or somewhere similar - a few grades of wet and dry and a rough wire wool ball),
kurust,
something to chip away at the old paint with (screwdriver, etc - be gentle!),
isopropyl-alcohol based degreaser-cleaner spray (can also double as emergency paint thinner/remover),
suitable shade of primer,
matched paint (spraycans for both... take along your filler cap, check it OUTSIDE against the swatch book, and threaten the paint guy with castration if its glaringly bad),
T-cut - both the original slightly abrasive stuff and a suitable Colour Magic,
some other good hardcore polish,
old newspaper,
masking tape,
a lot of time, a dash of common sense, and a good read-up on method.
Also gloves (& maybe goggles), old clothes, some kitchen roll or other clean-up stuff, a small brush for working primer into gaps, and white spirit for cleaning it (and your fingers).
Remove all the paint that's covering bubbled area and about an inch back from that (basically keep going til theres no more rust, then a little more). Give it a damn good sanding, then when it's sort-of smooth and no more than about 1/4 rust any more, clean up the surface good and give it a dose of anti-rust. Allow to cure then mask off and apply first primer coat, making sure it fills any uneven parts (should be only a few). Give it an hour, apply second coat, leave for 24 hours. Then apply topcoat, again layers with an hour or two drying time then leaving overnight. De-mask before leaving and see if you need to do any recovery work because of overspray. Try to blend it (unless it's black or white, don't expect this to work great but do your best. Go over with copious T-cut later - the abrasive first to make the blend better, then the colour magic to dose both the old and the new closer to a shared neutral shade, and then give it the polishing of it's life to stop the end result seeming flat.
Be sure that you've really blitzed the rust otherwise it will come back. Don't forget that there's an outside AND an inside.
Any places that end up perforated because it's rusted through probably require more professional attention.
DONT FORGET TO MASK CLOSE - AND MASK THE WHEELS & BUMPER!
I didn't do it right, but its informed me a bit on where i went wrong, and the theory was fairly sound....... just the practice was sorely lacking
1. have the time and patience to make a proper job of it
2. have somewhere sheltered to do it! (side of the road where wind and rain can come on in an instant will KNACKER THE FINISH beleive me!)
3. get properly matched paint
4. know how to blend.
ingredients are
a starter de-rust / sander kit (from halfords or somewhere similar - a few grades of wet and dry and a rough wire wool ball),
kurust,
something to chip away at the old paint with (screwdriver, etc - be gentle!),
isopropyl-alcohol based degreaser-cleaner spray (can also double as emergency paint thinner/remover),
suitable shade of primer,
matched paint (spraycans for both... take along your filler cap, check it OUTSIDE against the swatch book, and threaten the paint guy with castration if its glaringly bad),
T-cut - both the original slightly abrasive stuff and a suitable Colour Magic,
some other good hardcore polish,
old newspaper,
masking tape,
a lot of time, a dash of common sense, and a good read-up on method.
Also gloves (& maybe goggles), old clothes, some kitchen roll or other clean-up stuff, a small brush for working primer into gaps, and white spirit for cleaning it (and your fingers).
Remove all the paint that's covering bubbled area and about an inch back from that (basically keep going til theres no more rust, then a little more). Give it a damn good sanding, then when it's sort-of smooth and no more than about 1/4 rust any more, clean up the surface good and give it a dose of anti-rust. Allow to cure then mask off and apply first primer coat, making sure it fills any uneven parts (should be only a few). Give it an hour, apply second coat, leave for 24 hours. Then apply topcoat, again layers with an hour or two drying time then leaving overnight. De-mask before leaving and see if you need to do any recovery work because of overspray. Try to blend it (unless it's black or white, don't expect this to work great but do your best. Go over with copious T-cut later - the abrasive first to make the blend better, then the colour magic to dose both the old and the new closer to a shared neutral shade, and then give it the polishing of it's life to stop the end result seeming flat.
Be sure that you've really blitzed the rust otherwise it will come back. Don't forget that there's an outside AND an inside.
Any places that end up perforated because it's rusted through probably require more professional attention.
DONT FORGET TO MASK CLOSE - AND MASK THE WHEELS & BUMPER!
I didn't do it right, but its informed me a bit on where i went wrong, and the theory was fairly sound....... just the practice was sorely lacking