Engine management light problem..

[Cle0dy]

17524

P1116

O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Open

[RUM4MO]

The Lambda probe heater circuit fault has a different code - and that was the one that I was getting on my wife's car, but eventually the diagnostic side of the engine ECU might be seeing something else - so that is what it is reporting.

I don't know were the heater circuit gets its supply, but it is usually the heater circuit within the probe that fails and leaves the supply side on things intact, so replacing the probe with a VAG sourced one should sort things out.

Pity that you had to waste money on a post cat one though, still maybe put that down to experience - that is why these scan tools should be able to save people money most of the time.

[RUM4MO]

17524

P1116

O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor1 Open

I'm guessing that the description for that code implies that there is no signal output from the probe

[Cle0dy]

Yeah so far its just been trial and error finding the source of the problem, at least i know the post cat has been done so it shouldnt create any problems in the forseeable future (hopefully)

Going to clean the connector today and have a tinker about with it and probably order a VAG part later if i can afford it

[RUM4MO]

From a posting on www.seatcupra.net F9 is a 10Amp fuse and it covers the "Oxygen Sensor" - and that can only mean that its the fuse for sensor S1 heater circuit - if that is true for an Ibiza 6L then it should be true for a Polo 9N - maybe take a look and find that fuse - if I remember correctly, the fuse card fitted is for a LHD car so you need to remember that when working out where that fuse actually is as the card will be a mirror image of what you have! Remember also, if that fuse is blown, then it still probably means that the S1 sensor is faulty - but for the price of another fuse you can prove that by leaving the S1 lead disconnected - if the fuse lasts then reconnect the S1 lead, only thing is that the faulty S1 sensor heater circuit might have burnt itself "clear", (unlikely) in that case the fuse will survive but the fault light will stay on even after 6 engine restarts as the sensor is not heating up quickly enough as its now relying on exhaust gas temperature.

I've now found the fault codes that I got when the S1 sensor failed:- 17591 P1183 - 35 - 10 and 17604 P1196 - 35 - 10

[Cle0dy]

So what you're saying is check the F9 fuse, replace it whilst the sensor is disconnected and if it hasnt blown then connect the lead back up again yeah? Im getting a new s1 sensor fitted on monday as well, so i'll give all of what you said a try and i'll let you know how i get on!

[RUM4MO]

Yes, I was really just trying to get you to cover as many easy angles as possible before dipping your hand in your wallet.

[Cle0dy]

Had a wee look at the fuses at the weekend and everything seemed to be fine.
Got myself a NGK sensor fitted today and felt a maaaaassive difference as soon as i drove away from the garage.
Took it a good 20 mile drive with no spluttering or engine management light so im pretty sure its all sorted now.

Really appreciate all the help btw!

[RUM4MO]

Sounds like a result, maybe confirm that in a week's time, that should be enough time to prove that everything is now okay.

[Cle0dy]

As of today i've had no bother with the car whatsoever, no engine management light coming on or loss of power and i've had it a good 100+ miles since then, so hopefully thats the end of that problem

[RUM4MO]

Excellant news!

I'm still waiting for a new EGR to arrive to see if I can bottom out my current problem which is a slightly "fluffy" throttle on light loads, a bit like driveline shunt.

[Cle0dy]

Hopefully that wont be too much of a headache for you and you manage to get it sorted!