Detailing question

[lancslad1985]

Good morning all. I’ve detailed my cars for years but only the basics. I’ve gotten into it with this car and spent hours on it when I collected it. I’m due to do the winter coat back end of next month and was wondering what people use as a panel wipe product to remove wax or will a full decon with fallout remover do the job for me? Want to put a more durable ceramic sealant or wax on over the winter.

[SRGTD]

@lancslad1985 - there’s a good chance you’ll get differing responses from different people to your question.

I personally haven’t used a specific panel wipe product to remove existing wax protection. I’ve found that doing a full decontamination (iron fallout remover, tar spot remover and claying) removes any existing wax or sealant pretty successfully, leaving the paintwork glassy smooth and creating a good surface for whatever wax / sealant you’re planning on applying.

Also worth remembering when applying wax or sealant that ‘less is more’. Applying a thick layer is a waste of product and can be hard work to buff off. Apply two very thin coats - when you’ve applied the first coat and it’s cured, buff off and then apply a second coat. The second coat ensures that any areas you might have missed the first time get a layer or protection.

[lancslad1985]

Cheers SRGTD. Already knew about thin coats from my job, but we don’t specialise in detailing do wasn’t sure if the full decon would work. Hopefully it won’t take six hours this next time!

[S_94]

Sorry to hijack your post lancslad1985.

I waxed my car around 6 months ago. Wanted to give the car a full clean this weekend and wax again, would I need to do anything extra to prep the car?

Normal routine for me would be:

Rinse
Bug/Grime Remover
Rinse
Snow Foam
Rinse
Two Bucket Method Wash
Rinse
Dry
Wash Alloys
Dry
Clean Windows
Wax

Know that's basic compared to others, but does for me! I've got fallout remover, just wondering if I'd incorporate this at any stage?

[SRGTD]

@S_94; that’s a pretty comprehensive routine - I certainly wouldn’t call it basic.

I think I’d use the fallout remover - especially if you park your car outside, as it will have picked up airborne contaminants since you last waxed it. Removing them should provide a better surface for the wax to bond to the paintwork.

I’ll be doing mine this week. It won’t be as comprehensive as @PhilArnold’s mega-detail, but I’ll be doing;
- Snow foam
- Rinse
- Three bucket wash (third bucket for the shampoo solution specifically for the wheels)
- Rinse
- Decontaminate - what I do will depend on how ‘dirty’ it is, but will include some or all of iron fallout remover, tar and glue remover, clay
- Rinse
- Wash again and rinse
- Dry
- Pre wax cleaner
- Two layers of wax or sealant on paintwork, seal wheels.
- Clean exhaust tailpipes
- Clean windows
- And after all that, have a beer and then maybe a lie down!

[S_94]

Thanks SRGTD, I could do with adding another bucket for the wheels instead of emptying and refilling the wash bucket!

Brilliant, will add that into the process tomorrow. I've got the Bilt Hamber Korrosol Iron & Fallout Remover, did a good job on my bumper previously.

Any reason you start straight with the Snow Foam mate and don't rinse beforehand? Also anything you'd recommend for the exhaust tips, could do with giving them a good clean.

- And after all that, have a beer and then maybe a lie down!

Will definitely be needed! Would love to see some photos.

[SRGTD]

Thanks SRGTD, I could do with adding another bucket for the wheels instead of emptying and refilling the wash bucket!

Brilliant, will add that into the process tomorrow. I've got the Bilt Hamber Korrosol Iron & Fallout Remover, did a good job on my bumper previously.

Any reason you start straight with the Snow Foam mate and don't rinse beforehand? Also anything you'd recommend for the exhaust tips, could do with giving them a good clean.

It’s been discussed a number of times on various forums. Some people rinse first and others don’t but I think it comes down to personal preference. I find that the snow foam clings better if the car’s not been rinsed first, but I don’t think there’s a definitive right or wrong way of doing it. On the other hand, if my car was really caked in thick mud (I don’t think that’s ever happened with any car I‘ve owned ), I probably would do an initial rinse before snow foaming.

- And after all that, have a beer and then maybe a lie down!

Will definitely be needed! Would love to see some photos.

I’ll be sure to put up some pictures . It’s not really dirty, but there is a good selection of bugs on the front bumper, and that initial enthusiasm of washing and waxing a new car is pretty strong at the moment.

I want to get a couple of layers of wax or sealant on and the weather this weekend - especially tomorrow - looks quite good for car cleaning. Next week looks like full on sunshine, which is nice but not great for washing cars (hot bodywork, dried on water spots).

[lancslad1985]

By all means turn this into a detailing thread, I got my answer i personally wash my wheels before doing anything else, using a hogs hair brush and a fallout remover every few washes and simoniz ultracare in between in a different bucket. I then coat the wheels in snow foam when I get to that stage too before drying them when I do the rest of the car and putting sealant on.

[PhilArnold]

Just to echo what a few have said in here already, the only surefire way to remove any existing protection on the paint is via an abrasive product, either an abrasive prewax cleanser or finishing polish will be more than sufficient.

There is benefit to then use a panel wipe after this to strip off any oils left behind for maximum durability of the new protection laid down, but this step can often be skipped as it wont be a major problem, especially when using paste waxes.

In answer to the question re. when to use fallout remover, this should be used after the car has been washed and rinsed, but before claying. Sometimes if the car is only covered in metallic contamination then this is all that is needed, but often i find there are plenty of biological contaminants which need the use of clay to remove. Any blobs of tar should be removed with tar & glue remover, again before claying