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Thanks ciclo, I figured it would likely be the same. But the position and the blank contra-plug was a bit confusing, just as the error is.

Perhaps the original position of the wires for special equipment connector was correct from the beginning (additional original connector on the right side "Dummy connector").

In either case, T2/1 = feed (yellow/black), and T2/2 = ground (brown).

Thanks Ciclo.
Very honestly it took me quite some time to see and understand the image you shared.
May be eyesight of 40+ and degraded brain of IT Professional

Cleared all DTC and drove around few kilometer honking (like a fool) intermittently on empty piece of road.
And did auto scan again and fault code is not shown.

Great!


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Don't worry about having a degraded brain, nowadays it seems to be an advantage, you just need a smart finger.

Anyone is using this or similar OBD2 Splitter Extension Y Cable Adapter



Currently I have VW Go Connect Adapter connected to OBD2 port.

As far as I know, it is not possible to use those two OBD2 plugs at the same time ... (recommended: read about OBD2 protocols)
You will always be forced to disconnect the "VW dongle" in order to use the other device on the other OBD2 connector.
So ... I don't think it's worth it ...


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Why are you using these damn devices through your smartphone?
Then you will complain that BlackRock, Vanguard, etc. they dominate your entire existence ... and no one will listen to you for allowing them to fool you.
Please don't answer my question.

It is possible, but you cannot connect to the same module with two devices simultaneously.
So if you connect VCDS to the BCM, the other device can talk to any module except for the BCM.

Sure, but if the stability of the tools used is already very poor on some occasions, imagine how it will be under those circumstances.
Better not to do.

Thank you very much for all the information.

Question would be -- why do you need it?
As wrote before -- I have VW Connect Dongle connected and after using VCDS to check and clear DTC and VW Connect Dongle refused to get connected.
Ended up uninstalling app on mobile and reinstalling and then it worked.
Though this app and feature is to just confirm how less abusive is with car and fun but just was curious if above cable could save plugging and unplugging.

XHorse

My car came with one flip key and one normal key.
Came across a local mechanic with xhorse tool and tempted to get my eBay bought key programmed/working.
(This eBay key -- I got it cut and it inserts in ignition and turns of engine for few seconds and engine shuts off. VW Dealership tried to but could not adapt it. As transponder is used or not cloned or programmed to my keys)
But conversation with him either was vague or i could not understand it.
I have read and seen videos where existing key is:

• broken/damaged

• lost

• normal key is transformed into a flip key.

In all these scenarios number of keys does not change.


Is there anyway we can check how many number keys can be adapted/programmed and used simultaneously using VCDS?
I tried 09 Central Electric -- > 10 Adaptation
But could not locate channel 21.
This is just to find number of keys. I know cloning or programming cant be done with VCDS.


So questions are :
Maximum number of keys?
Megamos ID48 and XHorse ID48 can they coexists?
If easily possible without putting a hole in my pocket -- would like to have additional key or kyes.

May be use as a leash around neck

The first thing you need to establish is, what key do you need? For Johnson or vdo cluster. Then there are two processes. Learn key to immobiliser and learn key to the remote locking.

iichel, thanks for reply.

iichel wrote: Sun Nov 28, 2021 5:08 pm The first thing you need to establish is, what key do you need? For Johnson or vdo cluster. Then there are two processes. Learn key to immobiliser and learn key to the remote locking.

Very honestly I dont know
This is snippet of my Instrument cluster
Since this cloning procedure sends data to (3rd party) remote server -- I want to be 200% assured it is safe.

I'm pretty sure the xhorse tool should be able to work locally
best way is to take out your cluster and look on the back, what manufacturer is written

Armrest

Assume my manager/s does not get access to this link or are smart enough to notice day, date and time
Missing Armrest was completed today
When I had inquired at VW Dealer, they said we have to take out seats and also it would be 3 odd hours job. But I thought he may be exaggerating.
Also not so German Engineering precision instruction manual did not say so. However we ended up removing more parts.

Here are instruction printed or photocopied -- that came in with armrest
Page 1

Page 2

Page 3

Page 4

Page 5


Part used

• Armrest 6RF061123XPA

• Start Stop Button

Tools used

• Plastic Pry Tools

• Torx T20 Screw Driver

• Torx T30 Screw Driver

• Ring Spanner 13

• Cutter

Disassembly

After removing climate control front surround pate, we removed two screws (T20) on either side.
Then pulled gear selector up carefully and unscrewed two more screws (T20).
After pushing tabs and giggling around we removed front part of center tunnel.
Removed two more screws (T20) which are accessible after this.
Removing rear part of center console was easy with prying tools.
Now as we tried to pull up from back to insert base of armrest it was tight fit. Also seat belt holders were blocking the movement of central tunnel.
So on my self -- removed both seats.
Loosen the hand brake wire and then removed two bolts holding hand brake.
One more missing thing is -- no screws on either side of tunnel.
And now removed entire central tunnel out of car.


Now bit of detour from actual work.

VW part catalogue mentions two velcro on either side of tunnel. And guess what -- passenger side has a bulge and velcro but driver side nothing



Then there is a red colored locking piece and very honestly even though I removed it. I don't know what it is for.

Top View


Bottom View


Only thing could think of was to remove 12V socket
Since we removed the tunnel and had a start stop button -- was to put it.
Tried to save time and check if we can use 12V socket but we could not remove it.
Aligning exactly at center in front of gear selector was tricky as there was a connector for it. And also star stop button connector was pointing in same direction
So we decided to make a hole on right side of it ie near to left hand of RHD steering and driver.
As we worked without too many tools we could got hold of smaller drill bit cutter.



Used round file set and cutter and started filing it.
Using cutter made 3 small notches to glide start stop button.

Top View


Bottom View

Connected 4 pin connector with wires ( Next mission possible or impossible)

Back to Armrest Install Assembly

Put in metal base of armrest. There are arrows on two legs which point forward. So no chance of making an error in orientation.
We had to pull quite thick carpet and sound damper aside. Then put in rear base part armrest which slides and locks in tab.
Then top part of armrest slides onto to base and we tighten the nut.
Last bit is install rear part of armrest which has bottle holder. There is very tight gap and a screw needs to installed. We did not have smaller screw driver or anything so right now it is fitting on plastic tabs.

Here is intermediate result


Here is final result


Next


Last but most important -- a big thanks to M,V,S,A,D & M -- for helping me!!!