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Tim_GTi wrote:Can you alter camber shims accurately, and can they provide positive camber?

I'd be really concerned if you had excessive camber at the rear - it's a beam - and I really can't believe that the camber changes that much whenit's lowered a little - have the Garage checked the rear camber?

bstardchild wrote:

Tim_GTi wrote:Can you alter camber shims accurately, and can they provide positive camber?

I'd be really concerned if you had excessive camber at the rear - it's a beam - and I really can't believe that the camber changes that much whenit's lowered a little - have the Garage checked the rear camber?

Sorry.

I should have made myself more clear. I'm on about shims for the front now, it's negative on the front and they've been adjusted as much as possible. The rear is fine in terms of camber.

Two unrelated incidents!

hmm, all i can think of that makes sense is a dodgey batch from bridgestone? i know its rare but can happen. My mates falken tyres were completed shredded after 1000 or so miles!

Tim_GTi wrote:I should have made myself more clear. I'm on about shims for the front now, it's negative on the front and they've been adjusted as much as possible. The rear is fine in terms of camber.

Two unrelated incidents!

Ahhhh - Well my answer is widen the slot on the hub/strut joint so you can pull a more positive camber back

From memory bottom bolt hole is fixed and top bolt hole in the hub is slotted to enable camber correction - last time I looked there was plenty of meat in the area to allow a bit of extension to the slot

You also have the 3 bolts on the adjustable plate underneath to correct the camber even further.

You must be careful not to put excess strain on the CV joints though due to strong camber adjustment