UK-POLOS.NET - THE VW Polo Forum

RUM4MO - I gave the ABS sensor a lick of ceramic grease, just a smidgen obviously not covering the business end.

I had already bought Ceramic Brake Grease to replace my old Copaslip as the world had started to suggest that Copaslip type greases were now not to be used near braking components, but for some reason, my attention was drawn to a Febi grease which was suitable for most brake areas including near brake fluid, ie inside callipers, so I had added that to my collection - and so just used that on that ABS sensor, I made sure that initially the cut-away or voided areas were completely filled with it as well as lining the top end of the hole in the hub carrier with it, and probably tried to form a seal around the top, in maybe a feeble bid to discourage moisture/dirt getting into that area from the top and moisture/brake dust in from the bottom.
Anything must be better than nothing and I felt that this latest buy of brake assembly grease just needed to start getting used!!

From memory, I think that VW Group tended to use F-A-G bearings in the rear hubs, while they are using a French manufactured bearing in the front hubs and then them failing quickly - to be replaced with F-A-G by me and others in a bid to not have another front end failure, it is a bit annoying that original F-A-G bearings are now failing in the rear hubs. Still what can we do, F-A-G seems a good bearing manufacturer to me and is what I'll be choosing if/when I need to sort out the rear end hubs!

Update.

Finally got around to changing the bearing. Parts arrived a week ago, but I had some leave, so was away. Got up early, not really in the mood as forecast was for gales., but importantly it was dry. It’s times like this you just want a warm, dry, well lit space. Driveway it was as the garage has a boat in it - another story! As it’d removed the ABS sensor before and ordered the replacement brake dust shield, that definitely made a difference.

First issue was popping the driveshaft out of the splined hub. It had seized. Hit it with a lump hammer and punch, nothing.then remembered I’d bought a compressor last year. Put the Laser air hammer on it and it was out in a minute. In years gone by, that would have been heat, penetrating fluid and a big hammer.

Popped the old bearing out, definitely worse for wear, then eye protection on and cleaned the hub aperture with a brass wire wheel on a drill. It’s important, otherwise the bearing won’t seat properly. Cleaned with brake cleaner. A little engine oil on the aperture to ease it in.

Installing took longer than I thought. I’d stuck the bearing in the freezer to aid fitting. Waste of time.

This bearing wasn’t playing ball. I got it so far, then pulled it out. The EBay puller wasn’t doing its job either, so attacked it with an angle grinder. The alloy hockey puck that is used to brace against the hub when drawing the bearing back was wedged solid. No point fitting it if I couldn’t get it out, so gave it a run over to lose a few mm. Then the retaining clip on the FAG bearing wouldn’t pop in. Used a large flathead screwdriver to clip it in. Then the splined driveshaft wouldn’t go into the new bearing. Hammered the old bearing onto the splined driveshaft to clean the threads, and added a little marine grease. Needed to release the tie rod end to get leverage.

Noticed the drop link was on the way out, so luck would have it there was an Meyle HD droplink left over from when I used to run a Skoda Fabia, so popped that on.

Knees are killing me.Was wearing Draper knee pads, but they constantly move. Might invest in better ones or add more Velcro.

Anyway, job done.

any tips for tackling the rear bearings?
I should be doing mines today with new discs and pads

Edit:
one side came off easy.
1). I loosen the handbrake cable to make it easier ( I have to remove adjust it later anyway.
2.) Jacked the car up
3.) Remove the 5x 17 mm wheel bolts
4.) Lowered the car on the jack stand
5.) Removed the handbrake cable from the calliper
6.) Remove the 13 mm m8 nuts that hold the caliper ( 13 mm socker and 15 mm spanner)
7.) Remove the m6 Calliper bolt
8.) Swing the brake disc to the side and remove it.
9.) Remove the wheel bearing cover using a chisel or flat point screew driver and hitting it from the sides with the hammer. going around and around.
10.) Unbolt the 30 mm 12 point nut
11.) In my case the bearing slid off complete, place you fingers behind the bearing when pulling it off so it doesn't separate the inner race.

Old bearings have side to side wiggle, new ones are rock solid 70 Nm +30 deg.
This was the drivers side rear bearing it could be re-used. No noise but im replacing both with FAG waiting them to arrive. The condition of rear brake discs Ferodo after almost 4 years I did grease the hub studs.
I've painted the discs because I've learned my lesson with Ferodo brake discs, dont want them to look ugly.
Sorry for the trash its a local parking lot... people are tr*sh.
Next Brake bedding in, wash, and technical inspection of the car