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You could just bung the cam in, but you won't get the full benefit of it. It needs dialing in(using a vernier pulley), the fuel and ignition needs resetting to suit preferably along with a rechip. Exhaust and inlet mods for more flow will also enhance still further.
My NZ has a best rolling road figure of 90.8 bhp @ 5977rpm and it's only running a standard GT cam(could do more with a Piper cam), along with G40 exhaust, GT inlet, Poloace chip and a proper set up. Top speed is just a shade over 130mph(on a good day, using the 8P gearbox)

86C wrote:You could just bung the cam in, but you won't get the full benefit of it. It needs dialing in(using a vernier pulley), the fuel and ignition needs resetting to suit preferably along with a rechip. Exhaust and inlet mods for more flow will also enhance still further.
My NZ has a best rolling road figure of 90.8 bhp @ 5977rpm and it's only running a standard GT cam(could do more with a Piper cam), along with G40 exhaust, GT inlet, Poloace chip and a proper set up. Top speed is just a shade over 130mph(on a good day, using the 8P gearbox)

oh worth a note Steve, cheers

sorry for robbing the thread Pete

If your putting a new cam in, it's worth replacing the tappets too. Like steve said the inlet and exhaust mods will be more beneficial too. A vernier pully might be needed, a lot of cam manufacturers say they don't need them. Probably worth getting one and have it set on a rolling road.

130?! f*** me! mine struggles to get to ton16 down a big hill!! that has a GT box mind.....

DanW wrote:sorry for robbing the thread Pete

Not to worry Dan

I think this thread has sparked up some genuine interest in 'cams' & therefor, can be a good source of bennefit to other forums users

hardhitter wrote:If your putting a new cam in, it's worth replacing the tappets too.

Many camshaft manufacturers/suppliers will insist on this for warranty purposes. It's always good practice though.

86C wrote:Many camshaft manufacturers/suppliers will insist on this for warranty purposes. It's always good practice though.

Is this the difference between a 'cam' & a 'cam kit' ?

ie... if i was to get a 'cam kit', would it have everything i need to renew the top end of the cylinder head?

Your typical cam kit will include a cam, a new cambelt, a set of hydraulic tappets and some cam lube (assembly gunge!) Not included are the gaskets/seals you'll need. It's cheaper to buy just the cam and get the other stuff from GSF or the like...

86C wrote:Your typical cam kit will include a cam, a new cambelt, a set of hydraulic tappets and some cam lube (assembly gunge!) Not included are the gaskets/seals you'll need. It's cheaper to buy just the cam and get the other stuff from GSF or the like...

What if i wanted to be able to increase the cars redline (reliably) ?

I know other things need to be done aswell to help increase the redline, just curious about what kind of RPMs the standard stuff is rated @ and also compared to some uprated versions?

86C wrote:It's cheaper to buy just the cam and get the other stuff from GSF or the like...

VERY good advice - it's much cheaper!

BTW guys - some of you have mentioned vernier pulleys, I'm currently trying to co-ordinate a group buy through the Pitstop forum to get some of these. Price will be between £30 and £50ish depending on whether you need a squaretoothed style pulley, or the more rounded one.

Click here!

I had a schrick 268 cam I believe (2nd hand owner not exactly sure)

Its now in Liz-Blugirls MK2 GT that I put together that was RR 1ith 99bhp with the cam, a custom chip and ashley 4 branch. I did have to file the dizzy to get enough ignition advance as the cam though the timing way out.

The power increase they are well worth it on a GT and I now have another GT and I'm searching for one now

If setup well you should see gains of 8-10bhp and you certainly feel it aswell!