In great need of help

[iichel]

So reading between the lines, you managed to solve the ESP issue with the new connector and some cables?

[Retali]

So reading between the lines, you managed to solve the ESP issue with the new connector and some cables?

Exactly, like in medicine there is no black and white. Sometimes more than one problem can occur at the same time, same thing applies with cars (thats my conclusion after trying to mingle with stuff some months ago i had no clue).
And sometimes the fault of an engineer can cause (in the long run) more problems , this is my conclusion of the cause of my suffering.

At first my car had air intake loss . The guy who looked it up , first cleaned the butterfly, then replaced the oem map sensor with a bosch one and in the end he changes the gold female pins of the map plug with silver ones.
When he did that, by the looks of crimping of the wires and female connectors and the lack of insulation seals , well he didnt do a good job.

Now, the original intake loss (that made me have them check my car) was due to a broken grean silicone seal on the intake/wastegate conjuction.

But because he replaced the wires with no seals, after some months i started getting short to b+ fault, multiple times per day, highly depending on how cold the weather was along with car.
By doing a search, i realised map sensors work by a wire that gets certain heat etc .
Then by investigating the jetta workshop manual regarding the short to b+ faults, like we have discussed, and after checking the volts of map's plug. We concluded it was a fault of the 4th wire.

So i changed all the wires and plugs, since it was easier for me to do that than trying to find 1.5 female connectors and seals. I could do that aswell but since i didnt have a crimping tool for insulated seals (they cost a lot) .
I decided to go the other route and just crimp the insulated wire connectors.

Seemingly the problem is not around any more of the air intake loss .
100% the short to b+ problem dissappeared from the second i replaced the wires and plug connector.

All this, i would not be able to figure it out with your help and without buying an obd scanner. I would be completely blind .
I went to 4 different garages and electricians, stating to all of them the short to b+ problem. The fact that they didnt do what i did and went a different route makes me wanna go
pay a visiot to each and everyone and punch a hole to their face, not because they didnt solve it. But because they kept ignoring what a specific information i was giving them and they were seeing themselves with their own scanners.
i am a fkn accountant ffs that 8 months ago if u asked me where your turbo is i wouldnt be able to show it to you and i managed to solve a problem that is not easy to find around the internet in contrast to """""proffessionals""""""""

[RUM4MO]

Just one comment on the length of wire that you bought with a female contact pin at each end, there is a list somewhere on line covering the part numbers, each one's wire gauge/size and contact pin type/sex.
These are sold as "repair wires", the intention, I think, is that an auto electrics person would buy some, cut them in half and only use one half for each wire repair - and they would reuse the sealing bung to each repaired lead, your repair auto electrics person seems to not bothered with these moisture seals, very annoying.

Heater fan noises, not just dried up leaves that have found their way into the heater box? Maybe remove the pollen filter and see if anything is touching the fan, and try to remove it.

[Retali]

Just one comment on the length of wire that you bought with a female contact pin at each end, there is a list somewhere on line covering the part numbers, each one's wire gauge/size and contact pin type/sex.
These are sold as "repair wires", the intention, I think, is that an auto electrics person would buy some, cut them in half and only use one half for each wire repair - and they would reuse the sealing bung to each repaired lead, your repair auto electrics person seems to not bothered with these moisture seals, very annoying.

Heater fan noises, not just dried up leaves that have found their way into the heater box? Maybe remove the pollen filter and see if anything is touching the fan, and try to remove it.

Hello bro and ty, yeah i know it was a repair wire but i was expecting from the official dealership of vag parts when i gave them the fuse number to give me the proper diameter, they never asked me about the mm.
And it is a literal steal from VW to be charging 17 euro for a single (2) repair wire and they dont include the rubber seal that costs like 0.000001 euro to them.
If the seals are crimbed (which they are) with proffessional VAG crimping tool it is really hard to undone them, thus they just cut them and replace them by inserting new seals. The whole thing was a prank to my wallet and to my common sense. Yeah the electrician that replaced the female connectors prolly never bothered to find new seals and said wth just crimp with a plier those female connectors and pray for the best.

The pollen filter, you mean the one inside the cabin or from the hood of the car ? edit: i meant from where do i access it, for the heater blower motor. But yeah u meant from the glove box , i have already removed it but i need to untie the zip tie they have placed to the airbag. Need some extra lenghth screwdriver aswell .

[RUM4MO]

Yes the pollen filter inside the car, low down in the footwell, if you remove the sliding cover you should be able to spin the fan motor using your fingers and see if you can work out what is happening.

I retro fitted front PDC to my 2011 Audi S4 and the supplied front bumper cable was too short between the sensors, so I needed to chop it up and some of that included needing to fit new connector contact pins, finding a suitable crimping tool and a source of correct type contact pins was a bit tricky, I'm sure that I reused the original weather seals or maybe I bought in a few new ones.

[Retali]

OK guys .

Second week in a row and the morning problems that USED to occur 5 to 8 items for a single 25 min drive . Never occured again, i consider this problem fixed.

So if your obd scanner gives "Intake Air System Leak" fault and you have concluded that you dont have an air leak (via smoke test or air pressure test) and that your wastegate is normal.
Always check your MAP sensors, if you have replaced them and the problem occurs and gives the code of P115500 - Manifold abs. press. sens. Short circuit to B+
then check the map sensor plug . Do this multimeter test : https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen ... /page_826/
By doing this test i concluded the 4th wire was problematic.

Thanx for all the help iichel, Ciclo and others

Next problems to fix is the heater sound and the parasitic battery drain.