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Thank you so much sir. I think I found the problem with my alarm (accidentally). Today I was trying to do something and disconnect the battery while I locked the car. And the alarm triggered but just within a few seconds the alarm died off. So I believe it would have to do with the internal battery of the alarm. I will try to source a brand new alarm and will replace the old one that I currently have.

However I noticed 3 issues,

1) I cannot do the Engine coding with your new code (LHD & RHD saga). It reject my coding.
2) The "click click click" sound when the indicator is on, my car is not producing anymore.
3) The red light on the driver side which blink when the car is locked, it is not light at all.

May I know how and what should I do with them please? I really do hope I am not irritating you. Thanks for your kind help.

ciclo wrote: Wed Nov 06, 2024 5:17 am If it's a RHD :

New Engine coding:
002500F6202500080000

New GW coding:
002300

Thanks for the pictures of the Auto light switch. It's the correct one.

This coding I was referring to. I can do the GW coding but not the Engine coding, It reject.
With regards to the CH & LH light, I will try to play around.

Engine coding must be done with the engine off... ?

The other issues may be related to the anti-theft alarm (immobilizer) problem.

What values ​​of the BCM adaptation channels have you modified so far?

Hi Sir,

Here is an update.

Today the “click-clock” sound from instrument cluster on turn signal magically returned without doing anything.

I had tried all 1-15 to the adaptations at channel 62 but none of them make the light blink. I can trigger the alarm with both interior sensor (tapping the sensor after locked while I’m sitting inside) and manually opening the door through the windows after I lock the door.

With regards to the engine coding, I tried with
1) ignition off at “0” position -> cannot communicate error,
2) ignition @ ACC -> Coding rejects, Error 31, request out of range

May I know what else should I do sir

Just thinking out loud, may I know where the cables from that blinking red led should be connected to? So I could try to trace it back. Should it be from BCM?

It's strange, with 2) you should be able to perform the coding.
Do it exactly the same as when you installed the cruise control.

Remember that the battery must have the appropriate voltage (above 12V) when you perform the codings or all the tests you are doing for the anti-theft alarm.
Use a battery charger/power supply.

Yes sir,

I did it while the battery is attached to the charger so the voltage is 14.4 all the time

When I did. The CCS, it doesn’t give me any error. Should I try to disable and re-enable the CCS to try? I’m just afraid that I could not re-enable the CCS afterwards

It is a simple warning light.

Hiroki wrote: Thu Nov 14, 2024 9:09 pm When I did. The CCS, it doesn’t give me any error. Should I try to disable and re-enable the CCS to try? I’m just afraid that I could not re-enable the CCS afterwards

Don't do that.

Well, I've checked many other 6R RHD CBZ engines and it doesn't have the RHD bit marked.

so I assume that's the correct way to code it.

ciclo wrote: Thu Nov 14, 2024 9:42 pm Well, I've checked many other 6R RHD CBZ engines and it doesn't have the RHD bit marked.

so I assume that's the correct way to code it.

Noted with thanks sir

ciclo wrote: Thu Nov 14, 2024 9:12 pm

It is a simple warning light.

Thank you so much. Will check this weekend sir

Please do the following:
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal (30 sec).
- Reconnect it.
- Set the comfort function for all car windows with the window switch on the driver's door (auto up/down - one click).
- With VCDS, Clear All DTCs.
- New BCM coding:
3CB82FBF28FB2400B3380EB07CEB96D15FC0612F608C20D1200000020000
- Check for Faults.
- Autoscan, GW Inst list, Clear All DTCs. New Autoscan.

Check the LED function for the Anti-Theft Alarm.