Help needed in using a chamois (yes, really!!!)
Help needed in using a chamois (yes, really!!!)
Help! Howto needed in the “art of the chamoisâ€
Last edited by dxg on Sat Jun 21, 2003 11:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks, guys, for the suggestions (and for not making fun of me!)
I guess we all have to learn these things at some point and what seems second nature to some can be a bit confusing/daunting to others.
So, I guess my next steps are to:
- wring it out more (and try warm water)
- by a real one
- try out this turtle wax blade thing. Oddly, I'd watched the valeters at my dealer using what just looked like a wiper blade and wondered if it was anything special.
Thanks again,
Deek.
I guess we all have to learn these things at some point and what seems second nature to some can be a bit confusing/daunting to others.
So, I guess my next steps are to:
- wring it out more (and try warm water)
- by a real one
- try out this turtle wax blade thing. Oddly, I'd watched the valeters at my dealer using what just looked like a wiper blade and wondered if it was anything special.
Thanks again,
Deek.
I've used the Autoglym aquablade as well, it actually does the job. Saves some serious time too, but it has one drawback-
No matter what anyone says- it does leave tiny scratches on my paint. Not that the paint is in a half-decent condition to begin with, but I know it does leave scratches. If you have a pearlescent (Sp?) paint (i.e. with a colored topcoat instead of clear coat) don't use it.
My mum's car is silver, with a clear coat of laquer. There are no scratches there, at all!
Depends on the paint I say.
No matter what anyone says- it does leave tiny scratches on my paint. Not that the paint is in a half-decent condition to begin with, but I know it does leave scratches. If you have a pearlescent (Sp?) paint (i.e. with a colored topcoat instead of clear coat) don't use it.
My mum's car is silver, with a clear coat of laquer. There are no scratches there, at all!
Depends on the paint I say.
I'm only kidding Well 1st thing (I thinka and I may be wrong) you should do is get a non-synthetic chamois. Real ones work much much better see my picks of my car for result. Then just soak it so its totally wet thru and then squeeze the water out, then it should absorb the water on your car, I squeeze the water out of mine a lot and it works great.
Real chamois work the best and they do cost more but they last ages and they're defo worht the money.
Hope it works (and this is only the way I do it) If this is worng someone tell me quick, so I don't look a buffon for any longer
Real chamois work the best and they do cost more but they last ages and they're defo worht the money.
Hope it works (and this is only the way I do it) If this is worng someone tell me quick, so I don't look a buffon for any longer
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try out this turtle wax blade thing. Oddly, I'd watched the valeters at my dealer using what just looked like a wiper blade and wondered if it was anything special.
Thats the one, they are brilliant. Not noticed any paint damage with mine but i only use it to remove the majority of the water then i use a natural chamios.
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I got one of them turtlewax balde thingies a couple of months ago, and WOW!! Those things are the muts nuts!! Much better than a windscreen wiper blade that I previously used! And no, they DON'T scratch the paint!
Once near on all the water is wiped off with the blade, I then go over the car with a real leather. I hate them fake chamois things, I find that they dont work well at all.
When leathering get soak the leather in warm water until completely wet (no crusty harf bits left around the edges) the wring in out until no more water comes out. You are then ready to dry the car. Remember to regularly rinse the leather in a bucket of warm water, as this will get rid of any dirt that collects in it.
Once leathered and dry, you will then need to go over the car again with a soft clean cloth. This will get rid of and dust that is left behind from the leather.
I used to use a fake leather and it was ok on bodywork, but they are s**t on windows. Always had to do the windows with a real leather.
Dont be cheap. Buy the biggest, thickest leather that you can. 1. they last longer, and 2. they DO make a difference over the cheaper ones!!
I am a little addicted to cleaning cars. My polo prolly gets washed 2 -3 times a week!!!!
I need to take out shares in Back to Black!!
Once near on all the water is wiped off with the blade, I then go over the car with a real leather. I hate them fake chamois things, I find that they dont work well at all.
When leathering get soak the leather in warm water until completely wet (no crusty harf bits left around the edges) the wring in out until no more water comes out. You are then ready to dry the car. Remember to regularly rinse the leather in a bucket of warm water, as this will get rid of any dirt that collects in it.
Once leathered and dry, you will then need to go over the car again with a soft clean cloth. This will get rid of and dust that is left behind from the leather.
I used to use a fake leather and it was ok on bodywork, but they are s**t on windows. Always had to do the windows with a real leather.
Dont be cheap. Buy the biggest, thickest leather that you can. 1. they last longer, and 2. they DO make a difference over the cheaper ones!!
I am a little addicted to cleaning cars. My polo prolly gets washed 2 -3 times a week!!!!
I need to take out shares in Back to Black!!
Last edited by dub envy on Sun Jun 22, 2003 3:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.