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Would £10 for 24 hours on a torque wrench thats about 50% longer than mine be reasonable?

I need to find a bigger toolshop that has proper breaker bars for cheap hire or sale anyway but that one i polled is an emergency choice.... how much for a big ass breaker you reckon?

Oh and any methods that would help remove it with limited tools available would be nice (one 30-ish inch torque wrench and a 89kg body didnt seem to produce anywhere near enough torque)... reccomendations?

cheersy bye

Tahrey1043 wrote: one 30-ish inch torque wrench and a 89kg body didnt seem to produce anywhere near enough torque... reccomendations?

using a torque wrench to undo

try www.machincemart.co.uk

Some or the stuff is a bit cheap and tacky, but most is decent priced for the home mechanic

Tahrey1043 wrote:Would £10 for 24 hours on a torque wrench thats about 50% longer than mine be reasonable?

I need to find a bigger toolshop that has proper breaker bars for cheap hire or sale anyway but that one i polled is an emergency choice.... how much for a big ass breaker you reckon?

Oh and any methods that would help remove it with limited tools available would be nice (one 30-ish inch torque wrench and a 89kg body didnt seem to produce anywhere near enough torque)... reccomendations?

cheersy bye

Don't use torque wrenches as breaker bars!!!! - it's not nice and they aren't much use as torque wrenches afterwards either - buy a breaker bar - cheap as chips

Pettsy link should read

try www.machinemart.co.uk

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040210077



18' so it's a shorter than normal one but £11.69 inc the vat

Hellfrauds sell 1m long (approx 40"?) bars for £20, or at least that's what I paid for mine. Still not enough to shift Yoof's hubnuts - so we took the car to a local tyre place. Just let them slacken the nuts off for you, redo them with your ratchet/bar and drive home steadily (as long as it's a short distance you'll be fine). Job's a good un.

i think i explained before how much it would cost me to make the car able to drive to the garage - about £100. that's six months tax and a weeks insurance... ... far too much considering it may not, in the end, go through to completion.
(if it was still all legal ie hadnt taken six damn months to sort the engine, then no worries)

taken the comments on board about the torque wrench, just glad i didnt try putting any serious force through it (more than my own weight, anyway). if i had broken anything it would have been the hire shop's one at least and i could say that it was because they reccommended me to use it!

but yeah, just got a machine mart mini-brochure through the door yesterday, spotted their bar for under a tenner in there, was going to just come on and say "ah, forget it, i've spotted this"

edit - actually, its only 18 inches. damn. the torque wrench i have is at least that long. back to the drawing board.... (though, it could be used as an impact driver with a big hammer?)

(and, ok, i didnt want to make this a general gearboxin' thread, but.... do i have to worry about the CV joints falling to bits or anything like that? ive had a warning from someone else i was talking to about it that they may spring apart and drop ball bearings everywhere when the shaft is removed )

18" should be fine for most applications. Get a decent one so you can abuse it as needed. Jumping on it works well. Failing that, Nip down the scrapyard and get a dirty great lump of pipe to slide over it - Never fails!.

Um - just a thought, if it's hubnuts, you have driven the flange back out with a drift right?

get a hollow bit of steel tube that's 24" long

place it over your standard t-bar

don't put your weight on it - lift UPWARDS using your legs and a straight back and arms - you'll easily put 150kg's worth of weight onto it - probably 200kg - FAR more than you'll ever put on it by jumping up and down. That's the wrong way to undo a ceased bolt!

with the tubing, you will probably shear a bolt before undoing it - so be careful. I've sheared LandRover studs this way before.

omicron wrote:Um - just a thought, if it's hubnuts, you have driven the flange back out with a drift right?

done what? i hope that's a joke. otherwise that might well be the question that puts me off the whole idea and sees me wriggling the box past in-situ shafts.
don't know what flange you're referring to at all, and only have a vague concept of what either a flange or a drift is anyway

david burton wrote:get a hollow bit of steel tube that's 24" long, place it over your standard t-bar

scaffolding pipe then, really ... the hospital i work at is having the builders in, in a SERIOUS manner for about the next five years ... several sites going on at once ... i might be able to surrepitiously "find" something like that in a corner that's had tools downed for a couple months

don't put your weight on it - lift UPWARDS using your legs and a straight back and arms - you'll easily put 150kg's worth of weight onto it - probably 200kg - FAR more than you'll ever put on it by jumping up and down. That's the wrong way to undo a ceased bolt!

top, top tippery! nice one
(no, it hasnt worked, but i sure like the sound of that)

so long as it doesnt put my back out!

with the tubing, you will probably shear a bolt before undoing it - so be careful. I've sheared LandRover studs this way before.

guy i talked to in the (overpriced) tool hire place did say something along those lines, yeah... part of his explanation as to why i should hire his torque wrench rather than a longer, solid breaker bar (which he didn't have), but a valid point all the same.

is this a case of blowtorching & hammering it before setting to with the bar before it can cool down much? ie to stop it shearing?

a good pice of pipe! all good fitters have one in my trade! be careful tho...too much force and the head of your bolt will shear. BTW what are you doing?

Can someone just confirm or deny for me whether polo hub nuts have a flange that you drive in after fitting? Can't remember off the top of my head, and this could well be this guy's problem.

didnt get to post this earlier because 1. my internet went down, then 2. either UKP broke or my internets DNS couldnt find it.

i may just go out tomorrow and welly at it with the breaker and a lump hammer i found in the garage though... it doesn't LOOK like theres anything in the way, just that its tight as a nun's own flange.

open notepad, copy, alt-tab, paste, annnnnd....

============

ok, before i even touch the nuts again, i want to get this fully cleared up as its a bit murky.

Haynes says:
* Crack the seal on the hub nut, with some welly, and loosen a bit (same as taking off wheel bolts seems the idea)
* Loosen wheel bolts
* Jack it, remove bolts and wheel
* Undo inner CV joints at gearbox (piece of cake, done it before)
* Support shaft bit of CVs on axle stands (ok, a bit odd, but at least i have a couple spares i can use for this)
* Remove hub nut and washer
* Wheels on full (left? right?) lock
* "Tap the driveshaft from the splined hub using a soft head mallet" - i assume it projects through the brake assembly to the outer side of the disc and can be shifted using the mallet and a tap ... unless it goes far enough that the mallet alone will do it?

* Refitting is reverse of removal (doesn't say how you re-seat it firmly in the hub - seeing as it had to be tapped out - hmm)
* BUT, a NEW hub nut will be required. (where the hell will i get one of those? gsf, for a premium? presumably a new washer as well) --- Which is fair enough, as it's under more torque than the headbolts are!


People on here so far as i remember have said
1. Labour the hubnuts off
2. Remove shafts
3. Profit


But omicron says something about a flange ... dubpolo and others say about the nut shearing ... and an independent contact warns about the CVs coming to pieces once the support of the driveshaft is removed.

So............... a lowdown is needed I suppose. Anything haynes may have missed - they aint exactly reliable, but all I've got


I did get the breaker bar from machine mart, after shopping around in notts because of having an hour and a bit of shops-open time free at the end of the college induction day. Feels pretty solid but I dont like the look of the head - not entirely convinced its up to transmitting the amount of torque that may be requested of it, no matter what the packaging says. Plus it's only 18 inches ... better than the torque wrench by an inch or so and a better handle for doing it with of course. Just have been a bit stuck for finding pipes so far. Even looked around homebase, B&Q whilst hunting t-bars and couldnt find anything suitable - anything wide enough only came in 5-metre lengths! (and tended to be FAR too wide, too - the thin ones are only-just too small)

I wonder, would my wheel nut wrench be any cop for this? It has an extendible handle that comes out to at least 2ft, maybe more, a 1/2" square drive, and is a bit more solid at the business end. Prob is, the extendible handle means it rotates in wierd ways sometimes!

bump for detailed questionage posted during height of polo show...

please can anyone answer this right? it's not like we're lacking people who have done gearbox changes

i've tried hefting on it with all my might, two handed fingers interlocked pulling upwards as prescribed...... nothing..... tried wailing away on the breaker with a big ass lump hammer (impact socket on).. nothing. obviously a pipe and maybe some heat are needed, which will probably require some ingenuity to secure both.