6N/6N2 16v/GTI Brake Discs + Pads replacement
Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2005 5:55 pm
Yes, once you've done it it seems trivial - but this is mainly for people who want to have a go and are too scared at what might happen (like I was). It is your brakes after all!
You will need:
1) Brake cleaner
2) Copper grease
3) Jack
4) 13mm, 17mm spanner(s) or sockets
5) 15mm spanner
6) G-cramp or water pump pliers
7) New pads and discs!
First, slightly loosen the wheel bolts, jack the car up, place an axle stand under the axle, remove the wheel bolts and remove the wheel.
Next, loosen the TOP caliper bolt (red circle here). You may need to use the 15mm spanner to hold the slider pin (located on the other side of the bolt head). The caliper should hinge about its bottom lug. If not, you may need to squeeze the caliper using a g-cramp or water pump pliers. MAKE SURE THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR DOESN'T OVERFLOW.
OK, now turn the steering wheel so the front of the disc is pointing to the centre of the car, then you can slide the caliper out from its locating holes (push it towards the centre of the car)
OK, if you just want to do pads - then ignore these next steps
Undo the 2 17mm bolts holding the caliper carrier in place
The carrier can now be removed.
Remove the grub screw holding the disc in place on the front of the disc (it's between 2 wheel stud holes). Then hit the disc with a hammer from behind. It'll fall off.
Time for a clean - clean up the carrier with brake cleaner, pay attention to where the pads rest onto the carrier. clean up the caliper too. make sure the disc mating surface is free from muck.
Put the new disc on, making sure the grub screw hole lines up. Tighten up the 2 17mm bolts.
Now if all you were doing is the pads, this is where you join back into the guide! (make sure you clean everything like I said above).
Copper grease up the pads where they touch the carrier. Then put the pads into the carrier.
copper grease up the locating lug on the bottom of the caliper (remember the one we didn't need to undo?) and slide the caliper back into place. Now get a g-cramp or large water pump pliers and squeeze the caliper in as far as it will go. MAKE SURE THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR DOESN'T OVERFLOW. Now rotate the caliper over the pads. Sorted.
Tighten the top caliper bolt up (you should really have a new one with the pads).
All done. Press the brake pedal a few times to stifefn it up, otherwise you'll get a nasty shock when you next try to brake! Easy when you've done it once. Various polos will differ, but this is a basic procedure for a 16v one.
This is what my discs / pads looked like:
You can see the braking surface is minimal - with the outer disc corroded and the pads grooved. not great.
cost - 40 quid for the discs (you can get cheaper) and 30 quid for the pagid fast road pads.
You will need:
1) Brake cleaner
2) Copper grease
3) Jack
4) 13mm, 17mm spanner(s) or sockets
5) 15mm spanner
6) G-cramp or water pump pliers
7) New pads and discs!
First, slightly loosen the wheel bolts, jack the car up, place an axle stand under the axle, remove the wheel bolts and remove the wheel.
Next, loosen the TOP caliper bolt (red circle here). You may need to use the 15mm spanner to hold the slider pin (located on the other side of the bolt head). The caliper should hinge about its bottom lug. If not, you may need to squeeze the caliper using a g-cramp or water pump pliers. MAKE SURE THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR DOESN'T OVERFLOW.
OK, now turn the steering wheel so the front of the disc is pointing to the centre of the car, then you can slide the caliper out from its locating holes (push it towards the centre of the car)
OK, if you just want to do pads - then ignore these next steps
Undo the 2 17mm bolts holding the caliper carrier in place
The carrier can now be removed.
Remove the grub screw holding the disc in place on the front of the disc (it's between 2 wheel stud holes). Then hit the disc with a hammer from behind. It'll fall off.
Time for a clean - clean up the carrier with brake cleaner, pay attention to where the pads rest onto the carrier. clean up the caliper too. make sure the disc mating surface is free from muck.
Put the new disc on, making sure the grub screw hole lines up. Tighten up the 2 17mm bolts.
Now if all you were doing is the pads, this is where you join back into the guide! (make sure you clean everything like I said above).
Copper grease up the pads where they touch the carrier. Then put the pads into the carrier.
copper grease up the locating lug on the bottom of the caliper (remember the one we didn't need to undo?) and slide the caliper back into place. Now get a g-cramp or large water pump pliers and squeeze the caliper in as far as it will go. MAKE SURE THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR DOESN'T OVERFLOW. Now rotate the caliper over the pads. Sorted.
Tighten the top caliper bolt up (you should really have a new one with the pads).
All done. Press the brake pedal a few times to stifefn it up, otherwise you'll get a nasty shock when you next try to brake! Easy when you've done it once. Various polos will differ, but this is a basic procedure for a 16v one.
This is what my discs / pads looked like:
You can see the braking surface is minimal - with the outer disc corroded and the pads grooved. not great.
cost - 40 quid for the discs (you can get cheaper) and 30 quid for the pagid fast road pads.
BTW do the brakes need bleeding once the pads have been changed?