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i travelled 45 minutes this morning to my nan's house so i could work on my car as i live on a hill, i've got a cross threaded bolt, therefore needed to get the bolt off somehow, then take off the suspension strut, take the bearing and hub off....replace bearing and hub, re-attatch.

i spent 1 hour getting the mangled wheel bolt off, then moved onto the driveshaft bolt...SWEET JESUS it is virtually welded solid, i spent just over an hour kicking it, hammering it, using different types of WD40 stuff, all that happened was i bent my knuckle bar

Job number 2... taking off my tow bar, first 5 bolts came off no problem at all, i should have known it wouldn't be that simple, 6th bolt got half way then stopped, another hour spent on one tiny little bolt, finally got it off but a 10 min job turned into 1 hour and 10.

job number 3... Replacing a seized brake cylinder. did all the removal stuff then got to the disconnecting the brake hose from the cylinder...haynes says to clamp off the flexable hose (flexable??? it's rock hard?) so that's out of the question....OR simply remove the brake fluid resevoir cap and tighten it down onto a celephane sheet, it's probably me being thick but that completely lost me, i don't understand how that'd help stop the fluid coming out if it's what i'm thinking of. therefore gave up.

AND now onto a tiny shred of good news, i finally checked if my prospective alloys will fit and i'm pretty sure they will, havn't tried wiv tyres yet but it looks to fit between the wheel arch and the suspension.
whaja think?




Remind me again why i love my polo???

Wow thats one mighty task you've had there :O

But i can agree with you on the driveshaft bolts, not the easiest of blighters to get off lol.

Also i think the reasoning behind the celephane is from what i remember, i think there's a tiny wee valve in the cap of the reservoir that allows air into the top of the reservoir so a vacuum isnt created, thus stopping ur brakes from working. Putting the celophane in there prevents the valve from wroking properly, thus creating a vacuum and prevent vast amounts of brake fluid from leaxing all over the place. I could be wrong tho......

Brian

those wheels should be ok but i recommend using a narrowish tyre. 165/55/14 or 165/60/14. Both of which are quite cheap. Ive had alot of experience with oe wheels on squarebacks and you should be safe with that setup, even with some lowerage, without having to make any arch modifications. Your squareback looks really clean by the way. If It was me, I would have left the towbar on.

Forget about the fluid coming out of the back, its that minimal it doesnt matter. Just undo the cylinder and swap it over, then bleed it up. Clean any fluid off after with degreaser of brake cleaner

ya drive shaft bolts are rather tight! my choice of weapon is a large bar with a scafold bar on the end of it! i've seen my dad stand on them to get em off before!

as for WD40, my prefence for that kinda stuff is plus gas! blooming good stuff it is! got us out of many a situation!

as for the vaccum thing, it sounds about right, i'd imagine there to be some sort of breather in the cap!

tis the only problem with nuts, bolts, pipes etc etc that are in at one with the weather! they are never easy to get off!

o by the way, the wheels will look top notch!

ooo, tow bar, you've just reminded me, i've still got bits of tow bar around the back of my car! really must take the bumper off and see whats under there!

Cheers for the sympathy guys, i hope the wheels look good when i finally get them on the car, i got them about a year ago fpr £40 with corrosion and kerbing and i've refurbed 3 of 4 so far with polished/black, if they don't fit or i decide not to bother then i'll just throw 'em on ebay.

yer ebay is pretty good for getting rid of ya rims

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