Ive done a mk2 to fuel injection conversion as you may know GC. Ive got a few pointers for you in terms of wiring and such like. Dropping the engine in is the easy bit as far as a veteran like you is concerned.
Fuel Tank - Ideally you want a mk3 one as the internals differ to a mk2 slightly. Its ok to use a mk2 one though, you can join the outlet and inlet together on the bottom of the mk2 tank.
Fuel lines - You need everything from a mk3 for this one, Including the brackets that run under the car and around the rear axle to the fuel pump/accumilator/filter housing. You dont have to use a GT car for a donor as far as the fuel lines go, but ideally youd have the GT inline pump for the higher pressure it puts out.
Exhaust - I used a full mk3 system on mine (decatted) to incorporate the lambda probe. Alternatively you can use a mk2 system, you just need to add a threaded hole for a lambda proba on the downpipe. If you do use a mk3 system its best to do the lot; from manifold right up to backbox. (you may have to shorten the tailpipe)
Additional wiring - Again ideally you want a donor car to take the fuel pump wiring from. I saved everything from my scrapped GT so I had all the bits I needed fortunately. The wiring is really simple so theres not a great deal of hassle involved in removing it. Basically theres 3 extra wires on top of what the mk2 has; Two of which are a +ve for the fuel pumps and the third is an earth for the inline pump (the tank pump can use the earth of the fuel gauge sender) The +ve wire(s) are red with a yellow stripe and they both can be connected to the loom via the additional fuse that mk3s have (Yellow one that is part of the fuel injection loom - which clips above the fusebox)
Engine Bay Wiring - You need EVERYTHING from the GT that plugs into the fusebox, just the ECU loom wont do.
Engine bay wiring differences. On mid mk2s alot of the plugs are different to mk3s, they still use spade connectors instead of the more modern plug design. The plugs that are different are:
- Blue and Black temp sender (not a problem for you as you will get the right ones with the GT engine)
- Horn
- front indicators (side repeators are fine)
- Sidelights
- Reverse switch
- Starter motor solenoid wire (Should come with the engine conversion)
- Oil pressure switch wires (where these connect to the rest of the loom is where they differ, you should get this with the conversion anyway)
All of these parts can be sourced from late mk2s (whenever they switched over to having plastic timing belt covers is when they started using the more modern connectors. G reg onwards or there abouts I think.)
Theres a couple of other small differences worth mentioning:
- Expansion tank level sensor might be needed if your car doesnt have one. (late mk2 expansion tank) This wasnt a problem on mine either because it had one and the plug was the same, or it didnt have one and I had a late mk3 loom which didnt have the plug anyway.
- You need the GT radiator fan as its two speed and the plug on the loom is different. You probably also need the temperature switch on the radiator. You can retain the original radiator setup though for the most part. (I think theres a slight difference in the return for the expansion tank so you might want to use the mk2 thermostat housing and join the two outlets for the inlet manifold together)
- Windscreen washers; If like my ranger your car has 2 tanks, the wiring on the GT loom needs altering slightly. The deal here is on later ones the pump goes in two directions, forwards to do the windscreen and backwards to do the tailgate, This is done by having a switched live and earth. Now for some reason if you leave the GT wiring alone the front washers wont work if you have the separate tank setup. But if you replace one of the wires (I forget which) with an earth it works fine, and doesnt effect the rear wiper operation.
- The alternator bracket and alternator are sllightly different but it only matters if youre swapping alternators between the two engines (just swap the bracket with it)
- Last thing: For the rev counter to work you need to add a wire from one of the terminals of the coil to the back of the clocks. I cant remember right now which pin it is but its around pin 5 or 6 IIRC (red wire) As for whcih coil terminal it is just use trial and error.
Think thats it! Good Luck!
