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Thanks to uk-p

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 12:17 pm
by thedees1
After my drivers side electric window not working for months and a stealer having convinced me my regulator needed replaced for a couple of hundred quid, i thought im going to have one try on uk-p to find the problem. i used the search tool and came across a post with someone having a similar problem. He was advised to check the wiring socket in the door check, he explained it ws a common problem for the wires to break.

so i ent out and took a look t mine and low and behold one wire was frayed and the other was chopped in 2, so i ought a couple of wire joiners and hey presto my window works again :D :D

its saved me £200 :D :D

but i got home the other day and now my central locking has packed in. the key is still coded to the car as when i press the buttons the indicators still flash. i now have to open and shut the car using the key.
:cry: :cry:

anyone have any ideas on this or can tell my where the central lcking pump is, ive ran vag-com on it but no newerror codes only the ones i knew about

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 12:29 pm
by Biddle
Dunno if its the same as the M4 but mine is in the drivers side of my boot, tucked in behind te rear light.

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 12:50 pm
by thedees1
Biddle wrote:Dunno if its the same as the M4 but mine is in the drivers side of my boot, tucked in behind te rear light.
yip ive found it behind the light, ive took the connector out and it looks like there has been water in the socket as there is a little corriosion. will take pics when i find atteries for the camera lol

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 1:25 pm
by womble68
If its anything like what happened to mine, it'll be the Voltage Regulator which has been damaged. You need to look for the cause though of the water - which is most likely the Rear Wiper's Sprayer - what tends to happen is the tube running to the Sprayer comes off - this is the Tailgate (you'd need to take the plastic trim off to have a look, their are 2 screws (either Torx, or Cross Head) holding on, as well as clips).
To sort out the pump (if you're lucky as I was) you'll need to remove the vacuum tube from the top, then take the unit from the car, then remove the plastic cover on the base (careful prying with a screwdriver).
The circuit board is held in by 1 bolt, you can use a socket to remove this, and the board should come out, with a bit of wiggling.
The voltage regulator which was damaged in my case in one of the corners, and has 6 legs, in my case it had got a bit of gunge on it, and looked like it was a goner, but I convinced my mate to remove it from the board (using a soldering iron, and solder braid), and then we cleaned the chip up. The problem in my case was the gunge was most likely the last bits of one of the legs, so using a leg off an LED, we soldered it in at the base of the leg to the circuit board and top to the remains of the old leg, then soldered all the OK legs back to the board. We then used insulation tape over this area of the board.
We then put the circuit board back inside the Pump, and re-attached the plastic base. We then put layers of insulation around the edges of the plastic.
We reckon the cause of the problem is when water does get into the area around the pump, the fact the plastic has holes in it, allows water to the circuit board. Hopefully putting insulation tape around this area will stop this happening.
In my case I'd already looked at my Rear Wiper Sprayer, and somebody had obviously fixed it before I'd got the car since there was an extra tube around it with a zip tie to make sure it stayed in place. The pump must have just finally decided to give up from the previous damage as there was no water around the pump itself.
I'd try and get the pump sorted since although its true you can open the doors, at some point you'll need to fill it with petrol so you need to open the flap, and the only alternative is to push back the pin by putting your hand in through the boot to where the pin works from, but you'd have to have v slender hands to do it.
Hope any of this helps you. Good luck I spent a lot of a day doing this!! ;)

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 2:35 pm
by thedees1
well i took the circuit bored out and its covered in gunge all over , im not sure which bit to take out with the soilder iron. pics below but you cant relay see the total extent of the damage.

I forgot about the fuel flap and im neding fuel aswell doh,

i dont think he rear wiper is leaking as ive checked it all over and there is no leaks, i cant get my boot open from the outside as my lock has jammed.

Image

Image

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 2:51 pm
by hedgehogharvey

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 4:20 pm
by thedees1
Ive gave up, ordered i new one £176 ,

Managed to get the fuel flap open by taking out the pump for the pin

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 6:21 pm
by R.I.T.B
How was your window not working?

Mine likes to only close half way then go back down on its own? or it'll get close to the top then just stop as if its run out of energy? It is really annoying me now!!

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 7:59 pm
by polo_gti21
R.I.T.B wrote:How was your window not working?

Mine likes to only close half way then go back down on its own? or it'll get close to the top then just stop as if its run out of energy? It is really annoying me now!!
ive got the same problem, mine gets 3/4 of the way up and goes back down its really annoyin me too. thought i was the only one who was havin the problem.

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007 9:56 pm
by thedees1
R.I.T.B wrote:How was your window not working?

Mine likes to only close half way then go back down on its own? or it'll get close to the top then just stop as if its run out of energy? It is really annoying me now!!
as above check the wiring inbetween the door and the car for broken or frayed wires

Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 9:24 am
by womble68
Glad you got you fuel flap open. Shame about replacing the Pump. IF it was possible to fix it, you need to check each chip over for damage, then remove those that are faulty using a soldering iron/solder braid (or similar) - this is where it helps to have a mate who's good with a soldering iron (my mate used to be an electronic engineer - until he swapped to work for Airbus working in Wings - better money?!?).
I get the impression the longer chip at the end has been damaged on yours (looking at the discolouring on the board), whereas on mine we identified the chip next to it with 6 legs which according to a search on google, is a Voltage Regulator.
One other thing it'd help to see the other side of the board to see what damage has occured on that side if you want - although guess depends if you're bothered to do that now.
I'd definitely recommend putting some insulation tape around the base of the plastic section of the new one though. If I get a chance tonight I'll photo the plastic base of mine to give you an idea of where we put tape.
Let us know if I can be of any more help :)

Posted: Tue May 22, 2007 1:31 pm
by R.I.T.B
thedees1 wrote:
R.I.T.B wrote:How was your window not working?

Mine likes to only close half way then go back down on its own? or it'll get close to the top then just stop as if its run out of energy? It is really annoying me now!!
as above check the wiring inbetween the door and the car for broken or frayed wires
cool, i'll check in a bit, hopefully its a simple fix, not up for spending hundreds