9N - Oil change / Oil filter change
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:23 am
Hi,
I joined UK-POLOS.NET last year, hoping to find a DIY Guide for an oil change / oil filter change on an 9N Polo. However I never found such a DIY Guide for oil and oil filter... so presuming there isn't one.. or maybe there was one but has been lost in a site reshuffle? Anyway... despite not finding what I initially seeking, I did go on to learn some very useful stuff here anyway from other members - thanks.
I'm not a mechanic... just an average guy with little experience of working on cars... but wanting to save a bit of cash.
And seeing as I've recently done an oil change and oil filter change on a 9N polo, I thought maybe if I put together a DIY Guide of my own it might prove helpful to others. It's not advanced (because I'm no mechanic) but I reckon this DIY Guide will give some idea of how to do it.
===
Disclaimer: This is a general guide only and only covers the steps I personally took in order to do an oil and oil filter change. It is not a comprehensive expert guide. I will not be held responsible or liable to you or any other person for any loss or damage. If in doubt, seek expert professional assistance.
===
a) I took the car out for a 4 minute drive to get it warmed up. Didn't rag it. Just to get it to operating temperature. When the engine oil is hot/warm it will flow much better/faster out of the sump compared to cold oil.
b) I undid the the bonnet catch but didn't fully raise up bonnet. Then you need to get your car safely lifted up. (I borrowed ramps / wheel chocs and had some axle stands in place as a final backup). Consult other guides about raising your vehicle to work under if you are unsure. Absolutely make sure it's safely up and take as many precautions as possible. I had a friend with me as I believe you should never get under a car when it's on axle stands / ramps without having someone about to check all is well.
c) The 9N Polo I was doing the oil / oil filter change on belongs to my sister. I have a Golf. Looking at the engine bay of her 9N I couldn't see any sign of the oil filter from above. Therefore I guessed it would be accessed from below. I've got a range of oil filter removal tools (more later).
d) So with the car lifted up, time to get under it and find the sump plug and the filter.
Sump plug.
e) Now had to shuffle forward to the front end of the sump, where I then caught sight of the oil-filter (through a gap).
f)It probably has a distinct name of it's own... but there was some black moulded guard in place which restricted space access to the oil filter.
Black moulded guard.
Perhaps it's possible to remove the oil filter without removing the black moulded guard, but I couldn't see how... so I removed the guard.
Easy process... 3 torx screws (don't know size... perhaps T20?) on the left hand side, and 3 torx screws on the right hand side of the guard... and it drops down and slides out easy.
g) Time to remove sump plug. I had a ratchet and socket set... don't know the size of socket.. one of the biggest in my set. However I fitted that socket straight to a breaker bar (instead of ratchet) to get extra leverage (cause I'm weak) to just budge the sump plug initially.
If you don't have a breaker bar and your sump plug doesn't move because it's been fitted too tight (bad for thread) a solid hollow tube slipped over ratchet handle would give the extra leverage too.
Lefty loosey - Righty tighty.
When I took the breaker bar/socket to the sump plug... turned fractionally anti-clockwise, and with no effort it moved.. and then could continue to undo using my gloved finger and thumb.
(Use GLOVES - to protect your hands from hot/warm oil, and because oil is considered carcinogenic by many people)
h) As the sump plug worked itself free with my finger and thumb, I offered up my catch tray in expectation of a flow of oil. First a few drips of oil... and then as the sump plug pop out comes a big stream of old engine oil gushing out from the sump.
(Didn't take photos of full stream oil escaping as was busy ensuring it was all going in to catch tray)
Lower catch tray and allow to drain - including the all the slow drips.
Lift bonnet and secure it. Then undo the oil cap and remove the dipstick. This should allow even more old oil to be drained out of the sump. Continue to allow old oil to drain/drip to an amount of time of your discretion.
i) I wasn't looking forward to this part... the oil filter.
I already purchased a new VW oil filter to go on the 9N, and had tried it will some of my existing oil filter removal tools.
I found my VAG Parts "3417 oil filter removal cap/tool" was too big. It didn't fit snug on the filter.
There didn't seem to be enough room to use any of those 3 leg claw oil-filter removal tools either (I tried.. couldn't find the room). So I used a cheap cap I'd bought ages ago...
Size: 76mm
Flutes: 14
Applications: BMW, Champion, Mercedes, Porsche, VAG
Available from many places such as here. (or even Halfords when in stock).
Here is my 3417 (the silver one on the left of photo) next to the Halfords style oil filter removal cap (black one).
I've never used the 3417 (as yet) but notice how it has a deeper socket at the top compared to the black one.
Yet with the black oil filter removal cap.. when fitted to an extension bar / socket... it locks firmly as you would expect.... but...
..when the socket/extension bar is fitted/locked to the cap... it protrudes inside the cap!
Am I doing something incredibly stupid here - or do I need a different type of extension bar end?
The problem this design gives me is when you put the cap on the filter.. you can't get a firm grip because the extension bit protrudes too much inside - pushing against the filter and not allowing the cap to grip. Push cap on with more force and the extension bar gets pushed back out of the cap....
So I ended up having to balance my breaker bar/ratchet-extension inside the lip of the cap.. not fully fitted/locked... very awkward really.. but it did the job, although awkwardly.
It's important to turn the old oil filter the correct way. You obviously don't want to tighten it further when your trying to remove it.
I was still facing the sump plug... with my breaker bar/extension... and therefore needed to turn clockwise to undo the old filter. Turning around so my head was facing the front wheels.. it would be anti-clockwise to undo the old oil filter.
Have something ready to catch the oil from the old filter as it begins to undo from it's thread. It will drip out.. but not anywhere near much as when the sump plug was undone.
After my old oil filter came free from it's thread.... I was stumped on how to get it fully out. The oil filter removal cap had bonded itself to the top but I got it free by knocking it a few times. Even then though.. I couldn't see how to get the old filter out and was considering undoing some other things to get access to get it fully out (wasn't happy at this point) and went for a coffee and a pause to think.
Came back to it... turned it this way and that.. and suddenly the old oil filter decided to slip free through a gap and out in to my hands. (Can't remember how, but in a certain position it just comes straight out of a gap of all the pipes and fixings that surround it)
j) With both the sump plug removed.. and the old oil filter fully removed.. I don't know if there is any "best" order to putting the new stuff back. Perhaps someone has a best order here?
However.. I put in a new oil-filter first.
First dip a finger (preferably gloved) in to the catch tray of your old engine oil. Then wipe the whole circular seal of the new oil filter with that old oil. This will help ensure this new oil filter doesn't bond too firmly in place for next time when you come to remove it.
A lot of people prefer to fill their new oil filter up with some fresh oil before putting it on - apparently it helps prevent engine wear for that first moment as it fill up. However I didn't do this cause it was awkward to fit the new oil filter through the gaps and back to the thread... being on it side and all... and also it's not my car.
OK... to continue..
I fitted my new oil-filter hand tight. Then took the breaker bar / ratchet / oil filter cap and gave it another quarter turn. I'm comfortable that will be ok, but if in doubt, seek out exact torque or something.
Fit new sump plug / new crusher washer.
Do not over-tighten new sump plug (best not to reuse old sump plug). I just put sump plug in hand tight and gave it about a quarter turn (although check torque from a manual if in doubt). A rule I tend to stick with is "tighten snug and quarter turn more"
l) Get on some step-ladder (or alternative), and pour in fresh new oil (correct grade) with funnel. I don't know specified amount for a 1.4 9N, so guessed at 3.75 litres (?). Possibly best to know exact amount - so try find from alternative source. Have someone check if any leaks when you fill.
m) Re-fit black moulded guard. (mine slid back easy in to position then just fit back three torx screws either side).
n) Have a cup of coffee or tea - I don't advise drinking alcohol when you'll be working under a car as might impair judgement. Then go and check again for any leaks from new oil filter / new sump plug.
o) Bring car back down in a careful way.
p) Clean dipstick with rag - fit dipstick - wait 15 or so seconds... check oil level. If unhappy with level top-up.. but caution not to overfill as overfilling with oil can cause damage to catalytic converter... and keep in mind reading might not be fully accurate until engine started and had chance to drive out and oil go through system.
q) IMPORTANT. Old engine oil is an absolute killer for the environment if not carefully disposed of.
If 1 Litre of old engine oil was poured on to the ground it spreads out to do miles of damage to the earth/environment/, and depending on where you live, pollutes the water table. Think of the environment, people/children, animals, insects.... don't pour old engine oil on to the earth.
Similarly it's nearly as bad if poured down a drain. I'm not sure if it's against the law to pour old engine oil down the drains (it might well be - and if it isn't, it should be). Old engine oil can cause loads of ££££ damage and just pollutes everything up.
Old engine oil has to be disposed of in an environmentally friendly way.
Old local rubbish tip has a old engine recycling point - and I think most of them do these days. Simply poured the remainder of my fresh and new 5 Litre bottle (fresh oil) into an empty 1 Litre top up bottle... then poured the old engine oil from the catch tray by use of a funnel in to the 5 Litre bottle and took it for recycling. (It can be made in to heating oil).
Also they will take your old oil filter - as that shouldn't be thrown in household waste either.
You can check where you nearest recycling centre for old engine oil is here:
http://www.recyclenow.com/what_more_can ... e_oil.html
Edited May 2009 by Capo: Reason: Old photos had been removed from source, so uploaded to new host and added the new hotlinks to photos.
I joined UK-POLOS.NET last year, hoping to find a DIY Guide for an oil change / oil filter change on an 9N Polo. However I never found such a DIY Guide for oil and oil filter... so presuming there isn't one.. or maybe there was one but has been lost in a site reshuffle? Anyway... despite not finding what I initially seeking, I did go on to learn some very useful stuff here anyway from other members - thanks.
I'm not a mechanic... just an average guy with little experience of working on cars... but wanting to save a bit of cash.
And seeing as I've recently done an oil change and oil filter change on a 9N polo, I thought maybe if I put together a DIY Guide of my own it might prove helpful to others. It's not advanced (because I'm no mechanic) but I reckon this DIY Guide will give some idea of how to do it.
===
Disclaimer: This is a general guide only and only covers the steps I personally took in order to do an oil and oil filter change. It is not a comprehensive expert guide. I will not be held responsible or liable to you or any other person for any loss or damage. If in doubt, seek expert professional assistance.
===
a) I took the car out for a 4 minute drive to get it warmed up. Didn't rag it. Just to get it to operating temperature. When the engine oil is hot/warm it will flow much better/faster out of the sump compared to cold oil.
b) I undid the the bonnet catch but didn't fully raise up bonnet. Then you need to get your car safely lifted up. (I borrowed ramps / wheel chocs and had some axle stands in place as a final backup). Consult other guides about raising your vehicle to work under if you are unsure. Absolutely make sure it's safely up and take as many precautions as possible. I had a friend with me as I believe you should never get under a car when it's on axle stands / ramps without having someone about to check all is well.
c) The 9N Polo I was doing the oil / oil filter change on belongs to my sister. I have a Golf. Looking at the engine bay of her 9N I couldn't see any sign of the oil filter from above. Therefore I guessed it would be accessed from below. I've got a range of oil filter removal tools (more later).
d) So with the car lifted up, time to get under it and find the sump plug and the filter.
Sump plug.
e) Now had to shuffle forward to the front end of the sump, where I then caught sight of the oil-filter (through a gap).
f)It probably has a distinct name of it's own... but there was some black moulded guard in place which restricted space access to the oil filter.
Black moulded guard.
Perhaps it's possible to remove the oil filter without removing the black moulded guard, but I couldn't see how... so I removed the guard.
Easy process... 3 torx screws (don't know size... perhaps T20?) on the left hand side, and 3 torx screws on the right hand side of the guard... and it drops down and slides out easy.
g) Time to remove sump plug. I had a ratchet and socket set... don't know the size of socket.. one of the biggest in my set. However I fitted that socket straight to a breaker bar (instead of ratchet) to get extra leverage (cause I'm weak) to just budge the sump plug initially.
If you don't have a breaker bar and your sump plug doesn't move because it's been fitted too tight (bad for thread) a solid hollow tube slipped over ratchet handle would give the extra leverage too.
Lefty loosey - Righty tighty.
When I took the breaker bar/socket to the sump plug... turned fractionally anti-clockwise, and with no effort it moved.. and then could continue to undo using my gloved finger and thumb.
(Use GLOVES - to protect your hands from hot/warm oil, and because oil is considered carcinogenic by many people)
h) As the sump plug worked itself free with my finger and thumb, I offered up my catch tray in expectation of a flow of oil. First a few drips of oil... and then as the sump plug pop out comes a big stream of old engine oil gushing out from the sump.
(Didn't take photos of full stream oil escaping as was busy ensuring it was all going in to catch tray)
Lower catch tray and allow to drain - including the all the slow drips.
Lift bonnet and secure it. Then undo the oil cap and remove the dipstick. This should allow even more old oil to be drained out of the sump. Continue to allow old oil to drain/drip to an amount of time of your discretion.
i) I wasn't looking forward to this part... the oil filter.
I already purchased a new VW oil filter to go on the 9N, and had tried it will some of my existing oil filter removal tools.
I found my VAG Parts "3417 oil filter removal cap/tool" was too big. It didn't fit snug on the filter.
There didn't seem to be enough room to use any of those 3 leg claw oil-filter removal tools either (I tried.. couldn't find the room). So I used a cheap cap I'd bought ages ago...
Size: 76mm
Flutes: 14
Applications: BMW, Champion, Mercedes, Porsche, VAG
Available from many places such as here. (or even Halfords when in stock).
Here is my 3417 (the silver one on the left of photo) next to the Halfords style oil filter removal cap (black one).
I've never used the 3417 (as yet) but notice how it has a deeper socket at the top compared to the black one.
Yet with the black oil filter removal cap.. when fitted to an extension bar / socket... it locks firmly as you would expect.... but...
..when the socket/extension bar is fitted/locked to the cap... it protrudes inside the cap!
Am I doing something incredibly stupid here - or do I need a different type of extension bar end?
The problem this design gives me is when you put the cap on the filter.. you can't get a firm grip because the extension bit protrudes too much inside - pushing against the filter and not allowing the cap to grip. Push cap on with more force and the extension bar gets pushed back out of the cap....
So I ended up having to balance my breaker bar/ratchet-extension inside the lip of the cap.. not fully fitted/locked... very awkward really.. but it did the job, although awkwardly.
It's important to turn the old oil filter the correct way. You obviously don't want to tighten it further when your trying to remove it.
I was still facing the sump plug... with my breaker bar/extension... and therefore needed to turn clockwise to undo the old filter. Turning around so my head was facing the front wheels.. it would be anti-clockwise to undo the old oil filter.
Have something ready to catch the oil from the old filter as it begins to undo from it's thread. It will drip out.. but not anywhere near much as when the sump plug was undone.
After my old oil filter came free from it's thread.... I was stumped on how to get it fully out. The oil filter removal cap had bonded itself to the top but I got it free by knocking it a few times. Even then though.. I couldn't see how to get the old filter out and was considering undoing some other things to get access to get it fully out (wasn't happy at this point) and went for a coffee and a pause to think.
Came back to it... turned it this way and that.. and suddenly the old oil filter decided to slip free through a gap and out in to my hands. (Can't remember how, but in a certain position it just comes straight out of a gap of all the pipes and fixings that surround it)
j) With both the sump plug removed.. and the old oil filter fully removed.. I don't know if there is any "best" order to putting the new stuff back. Perhaps someone has a best order here?
However.. I put in a new oil-filter first.
First dip a finger (preferably gloved) in to the catch tray of your old engine oil. Then wipe the whole circular seal of the new oil filter with that old oil. This will help ensure this new oil filter doesn't bond too firmly in place for next time when you come to remove it.
A lot of people prefer to fill their new oil filter up with some fresh oil before putting it on - apparently it helps prevent engine wear for that first moment as it fill up. However I didn't do this cause it was awkward to fit the new oil filter through the gaps and back to the thread... being on it side and all... and also it's not my car.
OK... to continue..
I fitted my new oil-filter hand tight. Then took the breaker bar / ratchet / oil filter cap and gave it another quarter turn. I'm comfortable that will be ok, but if in doubt, seek out exact torque or something.
Fit new sump plug / new crusher washer.
Do not over-tighten new sump plug (best not to reuse old sump plug). I just put sump plug in hand tight and gave it about a quarter turn (although check torque from a manual if in doubt). A rule I tend to stick with is "tighten snug and quarter turn more"
l) Get on some step-ladder (or alternative), and pour in fresh new oil (correct grade) with funnel. I don't know specified amount for a 1.4 9N, so guessed at 3.75 litres (?). Possibly best to know exact amount - so try find from alternative source. Have someone check if any leaks when you fill.
m) Re-fit black moulded guard. (mine slid back easy in to position then just fit back three torx screws either side).
n) Have a cup of coffee or tea - I don't advise drinking alcohol when you'll be working under a car as might impair judgement. Then go and check again for any leaks from new oil filter / new sump plug.
o) Bring car back down in a careful way.
p) Clean dipstick with rag - fit dipstick - wait 15 or so seconds... check oil level. If unhappy with level top-up.. but caution not to overfill as overfilling with oil can cause damage to catalytic converter... and keep in mind reading might not be fully accurate until engine started and had chance to drive out and oil go through system.
q) IMPORTANT. Old engine oil is an absolute killer for the environment if not carefully disposed of.
If 1 Litre of old engine oil was poured on to the ground it spreads out to do miles of damage to the earth/environment/, and depending on where you live, pollutes the water table. Think of the environment, people/children, animals, insects.... don't pour old engine oil on to the earth.
Similarly it's nearly as bad if poured down a drain. I'm not sure if it's against the law to pour old engine oil down the drains (it might well be - and if it isn't, it should be). Old engine oil can cause loads of ££££ damage and just pollutes everything up.
Old engine oil has to be disposed of in an environmentally friendly way.
Old local rubbish tip has a old engine recycling point - and I think most of them do these days. Simply poured the remainder of my fresh and new 5 Litre bottle (fresh oil) into an empty 1 Litre top up bottle... then poured the old engine oil from the catch tray by use of a funnel in to the 5 Litre bottle and took it for recycling. (It can be made in to heating oil).
Also they will take your old oil filter - as that shouldn't be thrown in household waste either.
You can check where you nearest recycling centre for old engine oil is here:
http://www.recyclenow.com/what_more_can ... e_oil.html
Edited May 2009 by Capo: Reason: Old photos had been removed from source, so uploaded to new host and added the new hotlinks to photos.