central locking
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 1:39 pm
central locking wont work. i have to unlock each door on it own. what can it be.
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central locking
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Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 3:14 pm
Pump, electrics. What car do you have?
Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2008 9:31 pm
i ave a 6n2. it all started because i swaped my tailgate over to a gti one with a spoiler and as i unpluged the boot from the central locking pump all the other locks dont seam to lock now either from the inside or out.
i can hear the motor working to.
i can hear the motor working to.
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 3:04 pm
Blockage in the tubes? Try unplugging the air tube from the pump and sucking and blowing to see if the door pins rise and lower slightly.sharpspark wrote:i ave a 6n2. it all started because i swaped my tailgate over to a gti one with a spoiler and as i unpluged the boot from the central locking pump all the other locks dont seam to lock now either from the inside or out.
i can hear the motor working to.
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 1:29 am
If you cant hear the pump working at all try this and if you can, youll have to check for leaks.
Take out the pump from the right hand side in the boot
Take out the electrics plug/clip
Take off the air hose (look at it and work it out), Like 2 clips around a thinner part, clip one side of with a flat ead screw driver, apply some pressure to keep it off then do the same the otherside, youll work it out.
Then pop off the coloured panel with a flat head screw driver, and then theres a small nut in the middle of the board that youll need to take off with a nut spinner i think
then push the pins in the socket as you pull the board out gently, you really dont wanna snap it or break any bits really.
And then look for water damage, this is what was wrong with mine, a few contacts had rusted right through (ie. diodes and some lengths of normal unprotected wire jumping around the board).
Clean it up with a toothbrush and some wd-40 and a tooth brush or similar, dab of any excess after (be careful not to wipe, you may get the cloth caught and pull of components.
Resolder any rusted connections - this bits quite tricky as there may only be about 1mm left of a wire that you will have to solder a new wire through to.
A solder sucker is a must! You dont want any excess that will short circuit anything.
Once youve done all that make sure no parts are short circuited and put it all back together, Voila, One fixed central locking pump.
If this doesnt work either, the pumps a goner or a diode or other component has burnt out. If you have the electrical knowledge you should be able to do it by getting the right diodes and components but some bits may be trickier than others.
An extra pair of hands really helps with this, just like holding a wire through the board taught while you solder it properly.
And even if you dont need glasses a magnifying glass or pair of reading specs really help, used my Dads
looked rather stupid but hey, whos got a fixed central locking pump?
a tip, make sure you get rid of the old wire thats rusted commpletely (unsoldered from the back as well) and then resolder a new wire to the board. Dont just try and bridge the gap with a blob of solder.
(Im not an expert but it is quite easy as long as you can solder, i also had the help of my dad a bit who did electronics at Uni and has worked with electronics in previous jobs so it helped cos he was quite a dab hand with the old soldering iron, i took after a while though cos it really wasnt to difficult)
Good Luck. Sam
Take out the pump from the right hand side in the boot
Take out the electrics plug/clip
Take off the air hose (look at it and work it out), Like 2 clips around a thinner part, clip one side of with a flat ead screw driver, apply some pressure to keep it off then do the same the otherside, youll work it out.
Then pop off the coloured panel with a flat head screw driver, and then theres a small nut in the middle of the board that youll need to take off with a nut spinner i think
then push the pins in the socket as you pull the board out gently, you really dont wanna snap it or break any bits really.
And then look for water damage, this is what was wrong with mine, a few contacts had rusted right through (ie. diodes and some lengths of normal unprotected wire jumping around the board).
Clean it up with a toothbrush and some wd-40 and a tooth brush or similar, dab of any excess after (be careful not to wipe, you may get the cloth caught and pull of components.
Resolder any rusted connections - this bits quite tricky as there may only be about 1mm left of a wire that you will have to solder a new wire through to.
A solder sucker is a must! You dont want any excess that will short circuit anything.
Once youve done all that make sure no parts are short circuited and put it all back together, Voila, One fixed central locking pump.
If this doesnt work either, the pumps a goner or a diode or other component has burnt out. If you have the electrical knowledge you should be able to do it by getting the right diodes and components but some bits may be trickier than others.
An extra pair of hands really helps with this, just like holding a wire through the board taught while you solder it properly.
And even if you dont need glasses a magnifying glass or pair of reading specs really help, used my Dads
looked rather stupid but hey, whos got a fixed central locking pump?a tip, make sure you get rid of the old wire thats rusted commpletely (unsoldered from the back as well) and then resolder a new wire to the board. Dont just try and bridge the gap with a blob of solder.
(Im not an expert but it is quite easy as long as you can solder, i also had the help of my dad a bit who did electronics at Uni and has worked with electronics in previous jobs so it helped cos he was quite a dab hand with the old soldering iron, i took after a while though cos it really wasnt to difficult)
Good Luck. Sam