I've done it, I didn't take picture as I went (really should have).
This is a lot to read, but print it off and work as you go and you can't go wrong.
you'll need a ratchet set,
spanner set or narrow adjustable spanner.
Impact driver or a good cross head screwdriver
Mallet
Drill at hand
Break bar, or some bar that can be used to extend your ratchet
caliper rewind tool (found below)
Alot of the bolts and screws will be extremely tight. Where ever necessary make the tool your using as long as possible to get leverage. So use a brake bar, or make an extension on your ratchet with whatever you have. I found slipping the wheel bolt bar (that's included in the emergency jack kit in the boot) over end of the ratchet for extension very useful.
Right,
Fronts....
Jack up the car and get the wheel/wheels off.
Which ever one you are working with, turn the sterring full lock that way. so if you are working on the right, turn the wheel full lock right.
Look on the back of the calipers, and there are two bolts holding this on. (I can't remember what size these are). get a ratchet on the end, and loosen. You'll notice a bolt it connects to that spins, get a spanner on this and continue to loosen until the bolt/pin comes out.
Do this to the other caliper bolt. And the caliper will come out with a bit of a jiggle.
Take the pads off. And place the caliper on the bottom arm to reduce straint on the brake hose.
Now you are left with the disc and carrier. On the back on the carrier there are two bolts (I think 13mm), unscrew these. THEY WILL BE STIFF, you'll need a break bar or extension to your ratchet to get these off.
Now it's just the disc remaining, unscrew the small locator screw found on the front of the disc to get it off. THIS WILL ALSO BE VERY TIGHT. If you've got an impact driver, use this. If not whack the back of the disc with a mallet, and whack the screwdriver handle before trying to unscrew.
If it rounds off don't worry, simply get a drill off a similar size to the screw head and drill it out. once the head is drilled, pop the disc off (may need a mallet on the back) and use some mole grips to screw the mangled screw thread that is left.
Replace discs. Screw locator screw back on. If you drilled this out, either replace with another bolt or leave it out. They're not essential, just makes things easier when lining up the bolts for the wheels.
Get the carrier and bolt it back on. Use your extension or break bar to tighten back up.
Discs and carriers done! almost there.
Now, look at your calipers. If you inspect them, you'll notice them don't fit back onto the disc with the new pads. this is because the piston which presses against the pad at the back is too far out. so...
Put the caliper back into position WITHOUT the rear pad. It should fit on fine with one pad. If it doesn't, put it back on without any pads. Using a flat head screwdriver, put it into the gap where the pad at the back goes and lever the piston back into the caliper. This will stay put.
Now put your pads in place. Apply copper grease to the back of the pad where it meets the piston. re position the caliper, it should fit on with a nudge.
Tighten up the two caliper bolts. And your done.
Apply same process to otherside.
Then pump the brake pedal. At first it'll hit the floor, but keep pumping until it stiffens.
fronts done.
Rears
Jack up the car for the rears. take off the handbrake.
The calipers come off the same way as the fronts, the two bolts.
If I remember correctly you don't need to remove the carriers.
Remove discs in the same way as the fronts, and they should clear the carriers without removal.
Put the new discs on.
Right getting the piston back in isn't as easier as the fronts. You need this tool:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165469
It's self explainatory on how to use it.
Once the piston is back in though. put the caliper and pads back on like the fronts, applying copper grease to the rear of the pad that contacts the piston.
Put brake pedal again until you feel pressure.
I think that's it. Give me a shout if your stuck