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Hi

I have just, in the last two days, had my car back from the garage following a full recon of the box and a new SACHS clutch. The gearbox had been on it's way our for ages, really affecting performance. I also installed new leads and a new ignition coil as the car was losing power now and again, and bunny-hopping at low revs sometimes. Sadly it still does that - which leads me to my first question - I had a nose at the throttle body just now and it is absolutely stinking, like black and real grimey - once that's cleaned up, how much will it improve the performance? Is it likely to get rid of the random power drop-outs? Could the timing belt tensioner be causing this? Not sure if it's ever been done.

Second question - since I've got the new clutch and stuff, I've noticed this nasty rattling sound coming from the transmission area whenever the car is in neutral with the clutch up. Maybe it makes the noise when I'm driving and I just haven't heard it, but it sounds like something is freely rattling around in there?! Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.
wes

hiya mate,

snap!! i had my boxrebuilt/re-conditioned approx 1000 miles ago, and since i had a new clutch and all fitted its got a loud rattling noise!! i decided on then taking it to the people in the know at vw and was told that either a-the release bearing isn't on properly (sitting at a funny angle on the shaft) therefore making a horrible rattling noise.....or b- the bearing on the input shaft isn't seated properly, causing a rattling noise. do you find when you depress the clutch the noise goes, and when you release it comes back? cos thats what mines doing lol.

as for the jumping/juddering, mine used to do that at low revs, say in 1st or 2nd gear, dunno why, could do with cleaning the throttle body out i guess its always handy, but not totally sure if that will solve it? mine seems to of stopped a little bit tho.

pain in the arse eh?lol

Yea, it's a proper pain in the rear!!

I think I'm gonna take it back up the garage... They're gearbox specialists so hopefully they can just take a second look and fix it up.

The car was so fun to drive when I first had it, it still is when it's going fine. But it just keeps getting niggles. I've been searching the forum and there are sooooo many things that could be causing the symptoms I described. I hope it's not going to become a case of getting things fixed/replaced one after another in some expensive process of elimination! VAGCOM is next on me list, just ordered the cable of ebay.

wes

yeah mate, total pain! mines only just got back on the road, spent near 1500 in the last 8months on it lol. not good still ain't getting rid though, best car i've had and love it to drive!! just want it to get better lol

Cleaning your throttle body could potentially solve all your stuttering issues, especially if it's that grimey.

It's the cheapest fix really also, only costs the price of a can of carb cleaner.

Buy some and give it a clean out, then see how it drives

The rattle is more than likely the input shaft / release bearing. As for the throttle body, grip yourself a can of carb cleaner and make sure you give it a good going. If possible, find a mate with VAG-COM and do a TB Adaption. Should sort out the hunting.

This is the plan: Off up the garage tomorrow to get the clutch fixed. Tuesday hopefully have a bash at the throttle body. Then when my VAGCOM cable arrives I'll have a look to see what fault codes it pukes out, then I can go from there I guess.

Also, what's a TB Adaptation?

I'll keep updated with the results in case it helps anyone else.

wes

EDIT: Thanks for all the replies!

wesley wrote:...Also, what's a TB Adaptation?

Throttle Body Adaptation. This procedure cycles the motorized throttle body through various states (idle, part throttle, WOT) to relearn their positions.

There's a few things you need to make sure are done before you can do a TBA:

* Make sure there are no actively logged errors.
* Coolant temperature must be between 5 and 95C.
* TB must be clean.

Ok, once done. Turn on the ignition but DO NOT start the car and DO NOT touch the throttle:

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]

[Go!]
[Switch to basic settings]
Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.
[Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.

Should all be sorted...

Cheers MeTsU! Thanks for that - is it necessary though? I read somewhere about simply disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds, then switching the ignition on to "reset" or "realign" the thing? Maybe I'm just confused...

wes

Thast resets the ECU, but doesn't always fix a throttle body that needs aligning.

You don't always have to do this either. I'd cleaned mine twice and doen it to a mates and haven't had to do it on either.

Yeah, it's probably not 100% necessary, but when I do things, I do them properly or not at all. Not quite as "aggressive" sounding as that, but I'm sure you guys get what I mean.

I do them properly or not at all.

Probably the best way really! Sometimes it's not always possible though given limited resources and limited finances! haha

do you find when you depress the clutch the noise goes, and when you release it comes back? cos thats what mines doing lol.

Sorry, totally missed this question first time around! Yea, thats exactly how it sounds. It sounds a little like a ball spinning around a roullette wheel haha

wes

MeTsU wrote:Yeah, it's probably not 100% necessary, but when I do things, I do them properly or not at all. Not quite as "aggressive" sounding as that, but I'm sure you guys get what I mean.

It wasn't a case of me not doing it correctly when I came to it. There was just no need to adjust/re-callibrate it as it was fine

Just spoke to the mechanic that installed the box and clutch. I explained the noise and said it might be the release bearing and he basically poo-poo'd that saying it was all new and it couldn't be that. He said "the bearings might be a bit dry" That sounds a bit weird, but I just took his word for it. I'm taking it back up the day after tomorrow to get the cam belt and tensioners replaced, along with the water-pump so he said he'd have a look then. It's been an expensive week to be fair

Thanks for all the replies.

wes

exactly what the bloke that fitted mine said, 'oh its all new, its all fitted properly, can't be my fault....blah blah blah.....' just a way of having crap customer services eh? take it somewhere else and get them to have a listen, get there opinions, if needed tell them to write down the fault they reckon and take the car back to your mechanic again! i hate people who can't admit a fault...!

so, anybody shed some light on the whole 'bearings need to free up, or run-in?' lol. ive never heard of that and surely a new bearing should be ok to go!? and definately not get louder as it free's up lol.