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ok got some time now to do it

you will need Trox drivers, screwdrivers, alan keys and a socket set. cutting equipment ( i used a angle grinder)

1. remove the front bumper to do this you must remove the grill (2 torx) then the under tray and the arch lining screw that are attached to the bumper and two screws behind lower grills

2. remove the light over the intercooler

3. undo the boost pipes on the bootem metal pipe and the pipe on the plastic pipe on the top

4. remove intercooler (3bolts)

5. remove sensor in the top of the intercooler and put it into the new pipe supllied in the kit with the supplied screws n reducer

6. remove front crash bar and either cut holes n drill holes in ur crash bar or make do with the seat one (if u do this the horn has to be relocated difficult if u have fog lights.)

(bit different to the location of it normal)

7.fit cooler to crash bar with the two long silacone pipes

8. cut holes that are required on the front of the plastic part that holds the rad and lights on enough so the holes on the crash bar line up with the threads on the car (this is about an inch or two)


9. put the crash bar on with cooler attached

10. atach pipe work required and secure





11.cut bottom grill on bumber to allow intercooler to fit.


i know it not that gd but ask me any questions you like. it is my first but i can improve as needed, i also used the forge guide so using this with that u shouldnt have many problems
hope its ok

cool looks pretty simple. once u actually get stuck in its pretty easy, even taking the bumper off looks hard to some people tho does it make a big difference.

Good job matey. Like Zedzo sed, looks pritty simple to do. Just need the pennies for the Kit now haha. Looks mega that though pal, peeking out from behind tht grill.

Cheers guys I also put me hid's in at the same time

thanks for that. looks fairly easy. noticed much of a difference in performance?

Not really it needs to be mapped again to take advantage of the cooler

Could you tell me the kit you used??? Thanks

MODDED9N wrote:Could you tell me the kit you used??? Thanks

Just use the forge kit for the 9n3 GTI. It's pretty much bolt on in your case.

Ash

Does it matter that mine is TDI as apposed to a 1.8t? Thanks in advance

An intercooler's an intercooler. You may need to get a few silcone hoses / bends off eBay, but this won't cost too much. Whilst the 1.8t SMIC is in the same position, the intake manifold is at the front of the engine as opposed to the rear on the TDI. You'd be looking at an extra £25 or so tops for the pipework. You may also get away without extra pipe work, you'll have to figure that out as you go along. I'd get the Forge FMIC, fit it, but leave the pipework / stock SMIC alone. With it in situ, you'll be able to gauge if you need any extra pipework at all. Once you have all you need, undo the stock SMIC and take it from there. That way you have little downtime.

There's a guy from South Africa with a PD130 who's also using the Forge 9n3 GTI FMIC. He's got a thread somewhere in the 9n3 section.

Ash

Very helpful mate thanks!

Nice mate, that looks like a better more simple way then was found on that other thread!

If you dont mine me asking how much and how long?

And how nuch do you think you will gain?

On my GF's ride there is a single pass 7 bar, I think, and it was able to produce 253.7BHP. Do you not worry about over cooling?

6N-Toby wrote:Nice mate, that looks like a better more simple way then was found on that other thread!

If you dont mine me asking how much and how long?

And how nuch do you think you will gain?

On my GF's ride there is a single pass 7 bar, I think, and it was able to produce 253.7BHP. Do you not worry about over cooling?

Over cooling?? Colder air the better hence co2 sprays etc