Guys I have a new problem now
Basically running BBS RW's (same as polo DUNE) with 217s tyres. Just recently lowered the car on APs and the tyres are sitting just level to the arch.
Now whenever I go over bumps it rubs against the splash guard like mad lol It is more or so rubbing against the hump where plastic securing screws go.
I remember reading somewhere about modifying the inner arch to prevent this rubbing?
Can anybody recommend?
Lowering on 17s
Lowering on 17s
Remove the screw, push the lining over the tab.
Re: Lowering on 17s
I know it isn't the cheapest solution, but you should put 205/40 tyres on the rw's because they're only 7,5inches wide so there's no stretch which can prevent rubbing when you're low
I have 205/40 on a 8x17 with ET35 and I'm all the way down on my coils (the helpers are still in) and no rubbing at all
I have 205/40 on a 8x17 with ET35 and I'm all the way down on my coils (the helpers are still in) and no rubbing at all
Re: Lowering on 17s
Can you explain this again pleasenoone025 wrote:Remove the screw, push the lining over the tab.
Re: Lowering on 17s
Yeh am going to change them to 205 a bit later on in the year. I have dunlop at the back where the tyres have a angled edge. So might swap them around.Dennis wrote:I know it isn't the cheapest solution, but you should put 205/40 tyres on the rw's because they're only 7,5inches wide so there's no stretch which can prevent rubbing when you're low
I have 205/40 on a 8x17 with ET35 and I'm all the way down on my coils (the helpers are still in) and no rubbing at all
But I am not even wound down fully and the tyre is sitting just inside the arch. There is no arch gap at all. Might raise it a bit or modify the arch liner to accommodate my needs
Re: Lowering on 17s
Can you please explain this again? I have raised the coil over again today and rubbing is somewhat reduced. Butnoone025 wrote:Remove the screw, push the lining over the tab.
it is still rubbing......
Do you mean take the screw out and push the splash card or lining inside the metal hook?
Lowering on 17s
So, we are talking about above the wheel on the outside?
The lining is attached to the front 1/4 panel by a few screws. The top one is removed, then the lining is pushed up past the screw tab, giving an extra inch or so. You can then bend the tab a little more to keep the lining up and out of the way.
The lining is attached to the front 1/4 panel by a few screws. The top one is removed, then the lining is pushed up past the screw tab, giving an extra inch or so. You can then bend the tab a little more to keep the lining up and out of the way.
Re: Lowering on 17s
I ended up doing the same on Wednesday. Had to raise the front a bit more, I think its too high nownoone025 wrote:So, we are talking about above the wheel on the outside?
The lining is attached to the front 1/4 panel by a few screws. The top one is removed, then the lining is pushed up past the screw tab, giving an extra inch or so. You can then bend the tab a little more to keep the lining up and out of the way.
Although it still scrubs but only when going over deep pot holes.
Might change the BBS RW to original monza's......
Lowering on 17s
I'm running 8", 215's, about 15mm arch clearance in the front, 39 offset, whiteline sway bars. I don't rub in daily driving
Re: Lowering on 17s
why don't you try rolling the arches ? i did this yesterday because i'm preparing to lower it even more. i had to get rid of the screw like the guys were saying, but after that there was no more rubbing (and i was always having problems after changing the breaks and having to add spacers).
now i'm running on 205/40/17 with wheels that are 8J, et 35 (+22 mm spacers; this week i'm making custom 17mm ones, because every mm counts )
does anyone know if you can change the suspension flange (i hope this is the word in english) and replace it with the one from the TT in order to change the camber just 2-3 degrees ?
here is a picture from the process to give u an idea
now i'm running on 205/40/17 with wheels that are 8J, et 35 (+22 mm spacers; this week i'm making custom 17mm ones, because every mm counts )
does anyone know if you can change the suspension flange (i hope this is the word in english) and replace it with the one from the TT in order to change the camber just 2-3 degrees ?
here is a picture from the process to give u an idea