UK-POLOS.NET - THE VW Polo Forum

Hello Members
I have a 2001 VW Polo 1390 cc petrol auto, the 'Starter Motor's' making that grinding spin just after ignition so I like to replace it, rather than re-greasing and servicing it.

The Haynes manual virtually states, that in order to change the part it's best to remove the 'inlet manifold', but I don't want to tamper with the air and fuel system, and don't want remove the battery, and battery shelf assembly (for access only)

If I use axle stands to raise the car and I work from underneath the car, will there be enough room to loosen the starter motor bolts, and disconnect its electrics from this working position, but also relocate the new part correctly back into it's position?

Also, I know before starting the work I'll need to disconnect the battery 'negative' terminal, but I worried that I will then reset the ECU, so I've purchased a Draper EOBD memory saver, how is it used and what is the order of sequence it is connected in?

Members help, and smart tips would be really appreciated.

Kind regards
Livio

The starter can be removed quite easily without taking off the inlet manifold. Its just fiddly getting to the wiring, but you can get to it from underneath no problem. Access is a little tight however, so a good array of spanners and sockets will help you.

Its held on by three bolts which can be removed from above quite easily

Getting the old one out and the new one in may be a little fiddly, but it is doable - just take your time

As for resetting the ECU, i wouldnt worry about that. The ECUs have no issue with losing power as their settings are hardcoded. You dont need to use any memory saver or similar.

Thanks Alex, that's great news, I was worried that I'd have to start dismantling everything above the starter motor, also screwing up the ECU was a big concern knowing I'd have to disconnect the battery.

Now I'm just waiting for some emails from online parts traders, i want to get a genuine 'New' VW part replacement as long as it's price isn't through the roof, otherwise what other makes of 'starter' do members consider to be reliable?

Thanks again.

Regards

No problem

So long as you source the replacement from a good supplier, such as EuroCarParts or GSF etc, I cant foresee there being any problems

I would recommend you get a VW replacement though as the quality can't be beaten.

Thanks once again for all the help.

I just wanted to close the thread by giving some layman's advice, this is after I'd done job successfully, so I hope it helps someone else.

It was daunting to me, to have to do the job from underneath the car while it's on axle stands, so after a lot of viewing, and analysis using an illuminated mirror on a telescopic stick, i decided to tackle it all from the top.

I knew i would need to use a 13mm long socket, plus 1/4 inch extensions, the 2" and 5" ones, also possibly a 13mm ring spanner, and the small 'ratchet'.

First of all, I visually confirmed I had the correct part, this i found was only reliably obtainable either by Chassis/VIN number(dealer part center) , or registration, but that some retailers still needed the actual part number as there were 3 possible Starter Motor's flagging up on there systems, once the part was purchased and confirmed, i began the replacement procedure.

What I did first was disconnect the battery, i removed both battery terminals, i didn't remove the battery but just wrapped the + & - cable tails in kitchen towel.

I then removed the air filter housing, leaving the HT leads still connected but out of the cable tidy grooves, i covered the 'air intake' hole of the throttle housing with a lid from aerosol can, so nothing could falling into it, now i was ready to attempt the 'stater motor' removal.

Just a note I had made before starting, there are 3 bolt holes, one is threaded the other two are not, the threaded hole is used by a bolt which is undone on the 'battery' side of the compartment, you will also notice that the cable tray has a plastic arm that clips onto the end of this bolt, i decided this bolt would be undone last.

So, first off i unclipped the cable tray from the Starter Motor's threaded bolt, and unclipped the flaps that hold the cables in, then using my long 13mm socket on a short extension bar, and small ratchet, i reached in underneath the inlet manifold and between the firewall and, located the top 'back' bolt , it's a tight space, I managed unscrewed and removed it, then I did the same with bottom 'back' bolt, again it's awkward but I managed to remove it.

Using my mirror gadget, i reached in behind the SM unit, and disconnected the black 'plugin' electrical connection, leaving the main positive (+) 'bolted' connection for now, that just leaves the last top 'theaded' bolt on the battery side to remove.

Using my 13mm ring spanner I managed to slacken this 'threaded' bolt, then using my long 13mm socket on a 5" extension bar, i fead this socket combination under the plastic cable tray and onto the end of this bolt, using only this to then unscrew the bolt while still supporting the Starter Motor.

Once I had undone, and removed the 'threaded' bolt I cold then tees the SM out, and away from the main flywheel housing, moving it into a position that would allow me to unbolt the positive (+) 'bolted' cable terminal.

Then it was a case of lifting the old unit out, by whatever exit means I could find, and without disturbing pipes or cables while lifting it away.

Now to put the new 'Starter Motor' in, i basically worked in reverse, connecting all the electrical connections first, then the hardest bit was locating the new SM into it's position with the flanges flat against the flywheel housing, again it's tight, and you'll find you need to kind of angle it in, holding it so the flanges meet flush, and finding the correct place for the first 'threaded' bolt (on the battery side) locates and screws back into the new Starter Motor, once I'd achieved this everything else was straight forward.

Let me just say, that I am around 6', slim and have a good reach, so working over the engine was a strain but was manageable for me.

I hope this bit of information helps anyone out there, who might want to attempt doing this job but doesn't want to work under there car.

Kind regards