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6n2 ETD AHW polo (1.4 5 spd)

Car has been sitting 5 yrs on jack stands following gear box exploding. Only has 60,000km on it. When it went onto stands, engine was running fine.

New (to me) 5pd manual Gear box back on last week, fresh battery. Wont turn over.
Solenoid is clicking. On first try motor turned slightly, but now wont turn at all. Earths and battery connections are all fine, freshly cleaned.
Oil remains unchanged from 5 yrs ago, and I dont know how old it was then, but its colour, and level on the dip stick appears fine.
Engine did not come out, cant see how anything would have got jammed in the belt.
Clutch didnt come off, so alignment should not be an issue.

I CANNOT move the flywheel by lever (at the flywheel cover).
I have since:
- pulled the starter motor, earthed it, and it appears to be fine (admittedly with no load on it).
- pulled the box. Turns freely by hand, release bearing seems ok, no obvious signs of flywheel binding on gear box case.

I still CANNOT turn the flywheel, even with the plugs pulled.

Next step is to pull the RH covers off and see if I can turn the crank pulley, but Im starting to run out of ideas....

internal corrosion? is it possible the alternator, A/C pump or sometrhing has seized so badly that it is stopping the engine turniong over?

I do not want to spend any money on this. I just want it running so I can get it out of the shed and flog it off.

Sounds like engine has seized. Get a deep offset ring spanner to get onto the crankshaft pulley bolt. I think it's size 19. Taking driver side wheel off will help. You might need a jack plus wood block under the sump and remove engine mount to drop the engine a bit in order to get to the pulley bolt easier. Could also take the pulley off completely.

Use a long pipe or breaker bar and you should find that easing the crankshaft bit by bit will loosen it up. Don't try "crack" it like you would if u undid a bolt, but increase the pressure gradually until it moves. Then slowly keep rotating it until it you can turn it by hand. After that you know the starter should have no trouble turning the engine.

If you have the patience, pouring a spoon of diesel down spark plugs holes every day for a couple weeks before you do it will help massively with this. It has sat for a while. Mine sat for only 6 months and this happened.

Thanks. Cant take the engine mount off. The box is off on the other end:)
I have read about people pouring stuff into the cylinder.
Americans seem to swear by Marvel Mystery Oil. (Im in Australia)
I read else where that ATF is just as good.
Am going to try that.

Ah yes, you don't wanna end up with the engine on the floor. Maybe raising it from gearbox side might give you some more clearance.

Whatever floats your boat mate. I think diesel is the most effective as long as you wait long enough. I poured all sorts of lubricants down there when mine seized.

After you've loosened it up, before starting the engine just make sure to crank it from the starter a bit with tissue or rags in the plug holes just to eject some of the fluids out, just so you don't end up with mucky spark plugs.

You might have already come across it, but this webpage is quite useful:
http://www.baconsdozen.co.uk/Seizedengines.htm

One week in. Have been putting some diesel in every second day.
Took the cover off underneath and had pretty good access to the crank pulley. (yes 19mm)
Didnt move with either a ring spanner, or a ring spanner with another on it for leverage.
Have dosed it up with some auto trans fluid/diesel mix (prob 100ml per piston so I can be sure it is getting to entire piston diameter), and put a ratchet strap on the ring spanner for constant tension.

WIll see what happens.

Any updates mate?? Is it free and turning yet? Patience is good but so is a running engine

Try a 19mm socket and a breaker bar. That should give you sufficient leverage