UK-POLOS.NET - THE VW Polo Forum

Hi guys,
I think this issue will visit us all, its just a waiting game.

You put your key in the door to turn the key and it doesnt move!

Well i have good info if you didnt force it everything is good!

What happens there is factory grease inside of the lock, and it gums up from dirt, or if you sometimes used a door lock de-icer.

what you can try.
1.) Remove the lock from the door easy ( 2 torx bolts)

then bring the lock inside, make a pot of water and citric acid and boil the lock for 10 minutes, rinse it under water, spray it with wd-40 or any kind of oil really good.

If that fails. then you need to disassemble the cylinder lock.

Hold on tight this will take some time and patience.
Put on gloves, rubber hammer ( it doesnt leave marks on the cylinder lock), regular hammer works fine, but it will leave marks.
Piece of wood.
The half's of the lock are attached with metal pins( they arent steel so magnet wont work to remove them).
there are 4 od these pins.
Id recommend hitting on this part
Also you will need some really good pliers that have a grippy end, when the pins start to move out ( from hitting vibrations) grip them and remove them.

This is my second lock. and i always have problems with last pin. But patience is the key. Do not use a screw driver you will brake the body.

Id avoid hitting the body in weak places you can bend it.
Some people drill these pins out. If you have issues removing the last pin, you can use a drill to widen the the hole at the top so the pin goes out easier. No need to drill it thru.

Next part - stick your key inside the lock. ( This will prevent the lock plates that are codes to your key to fall out). When you remove it, clean the grease from these two half. and to clean the cylinder use oil and work them. If you want to clean them, remove the key one notch and you will be able to pull top and bottom lock plates and clean them.
Note the little spring
You can see corrosion on these lock plates now is the time to give them a clean/polish or replace.
They are numbered (each shape has its code/ number)
You can buy these new on aliexpress ebay etc.

If you want to remove all of them( use a zip tie over the ones and work you way down the key, everytime adding a new zip tie so they dont shoot out!
they are called HU66 lock plates
When correct key is inserted these locking plates will become flush with cylinder lock making you able to turn the key.
If you buy a used lock, you can use a file and file these down so they are flush so you can use your key.
Or buy a pack of locking plates and replace the ones that dont sit flush. You can see here they dont sit flush since this is a donor lock from scrapyard.
This is an overview of parts inside the lock.
You can even further disassemble these.
To remove this part like a paddle there is a rubber
bushing use a wooden toothpick and remove the rubber bushing- then you can slide out the paddle looking part. The spring is under tension, so if you remove it you will have to put tension on it ( press down and hook the other end of the spring in its place - you cant mess it up since the paddle needs to sit in it place/ groove.

To remove the ring that holds the spring just turn it around untill the keyhole groove matches and slide it up.


I have used machine oil in my lock and it works great.
Also some common sense, when you assemble the lock back try if the locking and unlocking works before you re-insert the pins.

To reinsert the pins use needle nose pliers to guide the in the hole, then tap them with a hammer the rest of the way.

Again patience is the key with removing this pins it takes timeee and many hits with Rubber hammer. I have tried using vibrations from impact drill, no bueno. For me hammer works the best.

Note:
If you try to drive the pins that hold the half's together you could get away with first two pins (near the paddle area)
(cause there is enough space) - These are the easiest to remove by the way- they always let go first.
But for the other two pins you cant drive them in ( the body is not hollow for them to fall thru), and the depth is not enough!

You can remove the lock, and lock the car with a remote locking and do your thang. Just when you use the grab handle to open the door, place your finger where the lock was, and push on the grab handle towards the front of the car with your index finger, then pull the grab hande towards your self to open the door. ( this will prevent you from removing the grab handle from the car completely).


GL&HF

thanks for this great informative post

Ah, reminds me of when we ran a Ford Fiesta or 3 in the extended family group, I've still got the remains of a couple of lock repair kits in my garage - but why! They were Tibbe locks that Ford used back in 1980's/1990's.
These Tibbe locks were sort of clever if you used them wisely, any key from a Ford of that age could lock any Ford from that age, used wisely that could be useful at times. Try unlocking a Tibbie lock with the wrong key usually meant damaging the key and maybe even the lock barrel.