UK-POLOS.NET - THE VW Polo Forum

I too had this rattle from glovebox and that was driving me crazy. Turns out the passenger side cap was cracked. I'll be driving without the cap to see if it solves the issue, but it does sound promising. Thank god!!

The interior lights are not monitored by the BCM, so no dashboard fault. Be careful with the so-called CAN bus LEDs, as they use resistors to waste energy and trick the car into thinking an incandescent bulb was used instead. Some Chinese LEDs are very poorly made and can be true fire hazards.

For the same of more information, you can also check this thread on a Russian forum: https://www.drive2.com/l/530713373080289336/
Also, the TSB for this issue is 2039142, according to someone in the Ross-Tech forum.

I have exactly the same problem and same fault code! The error message will pop up from time to time, for weeks. Resetting the tire pressures only hides the error for a while. But eventually, after resetting the tire pressures a few times the TPMS will work as expected for a few more weeks ...

So, after dinner research, it turns out AGM batteries, unlike standard lead acid need to be charged at higher voltages ~14.8V, instead of the usual 14.4V. This can be confirmed in this official Varta document for example http://d26maze4pb6to3.cloudfront.net/varta-automotive/7713/5776/8775/VARTA ...

Connector A is the one with only 18 positions, that's the one you're missing. It only connects to the front sensors, everything else is in the 26-pin connector.

As for accessing the power steering module, you don't need to remove the steering wheel, just twist it 90 degrees so that the flat top ...

You must connect the PDC module to the powertrain CAN instead. I found it easier to tap the CAN lines from the power steering module, located near the steering column.

I've observed the same intermittent 13.7V <-> 14.7V (ish) behavior. I've measured it with an OBD dongle a few times and I can usually hear the speed of the air circulation fan increase on a few occasions - when letting off the throttle with a gear still engaged while the RPMs are above a certain ...

Recently got the engine remapped to around 110 HP (original was 83 HP, sightly above expected 75 HP), I asked for something not too extreme, so this is still less than the very maximum this engine can give. The car feels just like original, except for the extra power, which is what I was looking for ...

You could try checking the rain sensor live data while sprinkling some water in the sensor area. That would tell if the sensor is well installed and communicating.

So here are the changes I had to make to get the RLS to work:

BCM long coding:
Byte 06, bits 1:0 - changed from 00 to 10 (enables sensor of type 'PR 8K3/8K9+8n6')
Byte 07, bit 5 - changed from 0 to 1 (enables 'Light switch with assistance driving light')
Byte 07, bit 7 - changed from 0 to 1 ...

I did this upgrade on my 6c myself, Lounge aka Comfortline trim level.

I had the light switch with rear and front fog lights option (5G0941431AH). Had to replace it with the one with the auto headlight option (5G0941431AF). Initially bought a chinese copy, but I don't recommend it, as the quality ...

That's because of the way the dome lights are wired. Here is a diagram from one ciclo's posts: https://uk-polos.net/viewtopic.php?t=57663&start=15

In order to light up the dome light, the BCM must guarantee that the light bulb "sees" both 12V and GND at its terminals. In this case, A23 is ...

That wire from the dome lights is a switched ground. The puddle lights should light up correctly (together with the dome lights in the auto position) if connected to the middle wire and 12V from somewhere.

There is also OBDeleven, which is significantly cheaper. Not really comparable to VCDS in terms of support or community, but the same funcionality if you're a DIYer.