iichels Polo 6R 1.6TDI DSG --> OEM++ R-Line conversion

[CNK]

is it darker?

[iichel]

it sure looks that way! looks like dark palladium instead of titanium black for the airbag cover
http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/ca ... ng/e#sec_1
luckily the glove box is still the same colour
http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/ca ... ng/e#sec_6
82V = titanium black

annoyingly it's proving to be quite difficult to find the dashboard in this etka.

[CNK]

So why you change this instead of only airbag cover?

[iichel]

because I can?

And I'll be able to circulate one of these superrare glossy black light switch housings

[iichel]

With respect to the TV tuner retrofit... It's a huge overseeing by VW for not making an OEM location for the tuner.
But, I soldiered on an managed.

This is what you'll find in every GTI, WRC and Rosa Line in the boot:







Silent witnesses:

[federicodrdpro]

You never sleep Incredible!

[benzinkopf]

wheres the antenna? rns510 supports tv tuner as in oem?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[iichel]

I still have to find a place for the antennas, there will be two of them.
I'm thinking about the small rear windows but I'll need to experiment a bit.

The rns510 should indeed support TV, i.e. like in Tiguan 5N

[iichel]

So, let's talk about suspension. In particular, wheel bearing housing removal.

Let's start with the disclaimer. Everything I show you is for guidance only, it is not strict operation prescription.
In fact, if you decide to work on your suspension, always read the workshop manual, the VW instructions and/or the Haynes book.
The safety of yourself, your passengers and other road users are the highest importance. Always. Saving time, saving money is always of secondary interest.
Invest in good tools, invest in good manuals, invest time to do things properly. There is no discussion.

Remember to always respect VWs recommended torque for all nuts and use new nuts.

Swivel joint to wishbone 100Nm, new nuts
Nut on drive shaft: 45Nm + 45 degrees, new nut
Bolt clamping wheel bearing housing on strut, 60Nm + 90 degrees, use new bolt and nut
Coupling rod to strut, 40Nm, use new nut

Having said this... This is the guide for the right hand side.
(passenger side in mainland Europe, driver side in the UK. I've only driven RHD once when I visited Australia. It was difficult, but if everyone does it, it's alright).
I chose to demonstrate this side for two reasons.
Reason one is, it's a bit more complicated since you need to disconnect the drive shaft before you can remove the suspension strut.
Second, my right hand wheel bearing housing was warped so needed replacement. Judge for yourself, lots of camber





Tools we'll be using:
- 16mm socket for ratchet or ring spanner
- 17mm socket for ratchet or ring spanner
- 18mm socket for ratchet or ring spanner
- Socket to remove drive shaft nut (12 sided 36mm)
- 14mm triple square/spline/XZN socket
- Pair of torx bits
- Pair of imbus/allen head bits
- Ratchet with extension bits
- Torque wrench
- Pair of axle stands
- Car lifter
- Screw driver
- Cleaning agent and cloth
- Something to lie down on
- Hub spreader
- Rubber hammer



So i'll be removing the decorative cover first and undo the wheel nuts. Before you lift the car and remove the wheel, but you should now remove the drive shaft nut.
After that, lift the car and mount it on the axle stand.



I here remove the wheel and then used the flat screwdriver to carefully chisel off the cover. This is not factory equipment, I fitted it myself.



Now remove the 16mm nut on the coupling rod. You may need to hold the inner screw with a torx bit.



Undo brake line from strut, unscrew allen bolt at ABS sensor and remove it.



If you have 256mm brakes: remove guide pin cover and undo guide pins with allen key, remove brake caliper and support its weight.
If you have 288mm or 312mm brakes Undo 2 18mm nuts and remove brake caliper and caliper carrier and support its weight.
Never ever let it hang on the brake line.
Undo one torx and remove brake disc.
Undo three torx screws and remove the brake disc dust cover



Undo 18mm nut of the steering rod. You may need to hold the screw with allen key.



Put a socket on top of the screw, when it's almost undone but still fully on the thread.
Genly use the rubber hammer to undo it, or use a tool to undo this connector.



Next you'll have to undo the bolt holding the strut into the bearing housing. One side is an 18mm screw, the other side an XZN head.



Now, what I've done is lift the car up on te car lifter and place an axle stand below the lower wishbone and lower the car, so the axle stand below the wishbone carries the weight
In this process, you'll find a point where the coupling rod is under no tension and you can easily push it out.

Remove the three bolts connecting the lower swivel joint to the wishbone and swing the suspension strut outward.



Attach a spring compressor to the spring, lift the car with the car lifter to the highest position, and place the axle stand below the car body and remove the strut from the wheel bearing housing, while at the same time removing the drive shaft from the wheel bearing.





Placing the new wheel bearing housing can be done in opposite order.
Ensure that the drive shaft rubber bellow is not twisted.
Ensure to position the plastic ring correctly on the drive shaft.
Respect the recommendations on new nuts and torques.

[CNK]

Thanks! Great guide and super detailed photos! I like it

[gtsportms]

iichel, u dont need to disconnect the drive shaft. its possible without this part.

[iichel]

i'm pretty sure the drive shaft is connected to the wheel bearing housing and to remove that, you'll need to disconnect the drive shaft.

[gtsportms]

ah okay, i mean for changing the suspension. Wheelhouse is another question

[iichel]

[federicodrdpro]

New mods!
...

Double reverse light

...

iichel do you have turned of the canbus error check of both rear fog and reverse with that LED?