SOMEONE must know

Tahrey1043 · Post by **Tahrey1043** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 11:04 pm

Ok my original posting of this died on its arse, possibly because it was polo show time, possibly it was in the wrong place / tired-out thread, or no-one knows the answer.

Trying again in slightly cut down form in the appropriate section

Come on, give us a clue, someone must be able to remember how their own carrying out of the procedure went, i know there's at least three people i can name on here who have done gearbox swaps!

Cheers in advance...

========

ok, before i even touch the nuts again, i want to get this fully cleared up as its a bit murky.

Haynes says:
* Crack the seal on the hub nut, with some welly, and loosen a bit (same as taking off wheel bolts seems the idea)
* Loosen wheel bolts
* Jack it, remove bolts and wheel
* Undo inner CV joints at gearbox (piece of cake, done it before)
* Support shaft bit of CVs on axle stands (ok, a bit odd, but at least i have a couple spares i can use for this)
* Remove hub nut and washer
* Wheels on full (left? right?) lock
* "Tap the driveshaft from the splined hub using a soft head mallet" - i assume it projects through the brake assembly to the outer side of the disc and can be shifted using the mallet and a tap ... unless it goes far enough that the mallet alone will do it?

* Refitting is reverse of removal (doesn't say how you re-seat it firmly in the hub - seeing as it had to be tapped out - hmm)
* BUT, a NEW hub nut will be required. (where the hell will i get one of those? gsf, for a premium? presumably a new washer as well) --- Which is fair enough, as it's under more torque than the headbolts are!

People on here so far as i remember have said
1. Labour the hubnuts off
2. Remove shafts
3. Profit

BUT ---
# Omicron says something about a flange ...
# Dubpolo and others say about the nut shearing ...
# and, an independent contact warns about the CVs coming to pieces once the support of the driveshaft is removed.

So............... a lowdown is needed I suppose. Anything haynes may have missed - they aint exactly reliable, but all I've got

i've tried hefting on it with all my might, two handed fingers interlocked pulling upwards as prescribed...... nothing..... tried wailing away on the breaker with a big ass lump hammer (impact socket on).. nothing. obviously a pipe and maybe some heat are needed, which will probably require some ingenuity to secure both.

I wonder, would my wheel nut wrench be any cop for this? It has an extendible handle that comes out to at least 2ft, maybe more, a 1/2" square drive, and is a bit more solid at the business end. Prob is, the extendible handle means it rotates in wierd ways sometimes!

Mister D · Post by **Mister D** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 11:19 pm

get someone to sit inside the car and apply the footbrake

put your breaker bar and socket onto the hubnut and slide a bit of a scaffolding tube over the bar to lengthen it and it should come undone reasonably easily.

the driveshafts may need tapped out but they should go back into the hub easily (put a bit of grease on the splines beforehand, even if it's not fully seated, when you tighten the hubnut again it will pull the cv tight.

I have never bothered replacing the hub nut with a new one unless I have got a new one if say replacing a wheel bearing

Tahrey1043 · Post by **Tahrey1043** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 3:35 pm

cheers geeza...... doh, totally forgot all about putting the brakes on!

do i take this to mean that there's no "flange" or danger of the CV joints disintegrating then?

i just gotta figure out where to get a suitable pole from...

Tahrey1043 · Post by **Tahrey1043** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 10:54 pm

edit: by the way, you get the honor of having the charity donation in your name - username, anyway - if the place where i give it allows that stuff. if not you at least get the warm glow of making someone elses money go to a good cause

(and i'll put gift aid on, if i can)

ok, after putting the brake on, the left hand side one cracked nicely and i've unscrewed it most of the way off now

the right hand one, however, will need a pole if i can track one down - i set off too late to find an open scrappy (they'd all gone to the villa game lol

as brums best scrapyards are in aston), and there's a surprising lack of loose poles even though my route took me past many derelict places and building sites. Bizarre.

i've doused it in penetrating oil and wd40, battered the protruding bit of the shaft with a clawhammer, and heated it up best i can with a 950w hairdryer held almost flat against it (hot enough to nearly char the skin off my hand after just a couple seconds testing the airflow)... my neighbour has a blowlamp he said i could borrow, but went off on holiday alluvasudden last weekend..

still it wont shift - my socket actually started to slip laterally and round off a tiny bit, but the nut hasnt turned at all.

but, the left hand side one is the more important, is it not? as the box has to slide off to that side, and the right shaft connects almost right where the box meets the engine, so it won't exactly get in the way as much as the left one might. so i could do it without having to bother about the RH shaft?