My best mate is looking to buy a MK2 1982 Polo GL 1.1, it's done 52,244 miles (with paper work and history to prove)..
I'm gonna go along and have a once over on the car with him, is there anything you would recommend specifically looking out for - Mk2 wise?
I already know that in september it had a new cambelt, on its MOT it needed some stuff done to the rear seals, and that was it.. (which hsa been dealt with). The front windscreen jet for the washer fluid doesnt work, but it just needs tobe replaced which is v.cheap and quick..
The choke has to be on pretty much all the time when driving, specifically when not using the accelorator otherwise it stalls, i already know from experience this is to do with loss of compression from the air filter and the carb.. (experienced on mine.. either cracked old pipes or ones come loose.. maximum the carb will need to be cleaned, which i know how to do..)
Its had 4 new tyres put on 6 months ago.. and has no rust on the paintwork or under any of the arches..
and its VERY cheap.. got MOT for another year and tax for 3 months..
Buying Advice - New Car
Below is the checklist I put together when looking for my own Mk2. Much of it taken from this excellent site;
http://bangernomics.tripod.com/minor.htm
Here's the list. Hope it is of some use. If anyone wants to add/amend, maybe we could create the definitive Mk2 checklist and make it available on the site somewhere?
VW Polo Mk.2 ’82 – ’90 (Reg No. =X/Y after No. to A-H before No.)
Over telephone before viewing
Engine size
Mileage
Year
4 or 5 speed
Body Type: - Hatchback, Saloon (Classic), Coupe
Taxed until?
MOT’d until?
Cam belt last changed?
Engine:- Oil leaks? Smoke from exhaust?
Tyre condition?
Reason for selling?
Any old documentation? MOT’s or service history? Manuals?
When viewing car
Look at: -
Bodywork (Rust): -
1. Rear wheel arches – around lip and inside arch
2. Petrol filler/wheelarch/inner wing/sill end/filler
pipe (Rot at rear of RH sill = much worse inside)
3. Rear seat belt mounts around mounting plates,
under r.seats
4. Front wings have plastic liners, but can go rusty
at bottom
5. Battery tray – rot can spread to inner wing and
bulkhead
6. Boot floor, esp around susp turrets and inside
wheel well
7. Cracked rear light lenses allows water and rot in
boot
8. Windscreen surround lower corners – could lead
to leaks
Engine: -
1. Oil leaks/oil level and condition (incl. Filter)
2. Condition of antifreeze and brake fluid
3. Emulsified oil (filler and dipstick) (Fumes from
filler after test drive)
4. Oily air filter element
Is clutch heavy? (Cable worn – could break)
Interior; heater fan, wipers, washers
Tyres – uneven wear?
Wheel bearings (wobble wheel)
Shocks (compression test)
Exhaust test (hand over the end)
Does it brake in a straight line? Drive straight? Handbrake?
http://bangernomics.tripod.com/minor.htm
Here's the list. Hope it is of some use. If anyone wants to add/amend, maybe we could create the definitive Mk2 checklist and make it available on the site somewhere?
VW Polo Mk.2 ’82 – ’90 (Reg No. =X/Y after No. to A-H before No.)
Over telephone before viewing
Engine size
Mileage
Year
4 or 5 speed
Body Type: - Hatchback, Saloon (Classic), Coupe
Taxed until?
MOT’d until?
Cam belt last changed?
Engine:- Oil leaks? Smoke from exhaust?
Tyre condition?
Reason for selling?
Any old documentation? MOT’s or service history? Manuals?
When viewing car
Look at: -
Bodywork (Rust): -
1. Rear wheel arches – around lip and inside arch
2. Petrol filler/wheelarch/inner wing/sill end/filler
pipe (Rot at rear of RH sill = much worse inside)
3. Rear seat belt mounts around mounting plates,
under r.seats
4. Front wings have plastic liners, but can go rusty
at bottom
5. Battery tray – rot can spread to inner wing and
bulkhead
6. Boot floor, esp around susp turrets and inside
wheel well
7. Cracked rear light lenses allows water and rot in
boot
8. Windscreen surround lower corners – could lead
to leaks
Engine: -
1. Oil leaks/oil level and condition (incl. Filter)
2. Condition of antifreeze and brake fluid
3. Emulsified oil (filler and dipstick) (Fumes from
filler after test drive)
4. Oily air filter element
Is clutch heavy? (Cable worn – could break)
Interior; heater fan, wipers, washers
Tyres – uneven wear?
Wheel bearings (wobble wheel)
Shocks (compression test)
Exhaust test (hand over the end)
Does it brake in a straight line? Drive straight? Handbrake?
the stuff you already said is everything you need except for the rusting petrol tank/filler neck and under the battery tray....as well as the stuff birmman said 
not too much to go wrong with mk2's....if you buy a newer car the electrics can fail on a 1000 things, you can pretty much inspect a mk2 inside and out and pretty much know if it's a pig
not too much to go wrong with mk2's....if you buy a newer car the electrics can fail on a 1000 things, you can pretty much inspect a mk2 inside and out and pretty much know if it's a pig
