Both my electric windows have stopped working on my X reg MK5. They are both closed and will not go down. They both stopped working at different times. There were no warning signs, slowness, clunking etc. I can hear a click when the buttons are pressed but no movement.
Ive read ALL the posts regarding this problem. All fuses are fine. Ive tried the door slamming method while pushing the switch - no joy. Ive had door cards off and can't see any problems with the wiring. There are no broken wires between door and car.
Ive seen a video in the MK4 section that shows a repair procedure for the motor using a VW repair kit - 6N3 998 801 A. It seems that there is a toothed cog inside the motor that gets damaged and stops the motor winding down - however it seems that it's still works for winding up. Anybody know if this is also a problem on the MK5 version of the motor? Is there an equivalent kit for the MK5 version?
Im going to take the motor out so I can let the window down slightly, put the motor back in and see if it will go back up - that way I should know if the above problem applies to my motor. Anybody got any hints for getting the motor out on the MK5?
Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Marc
PS. If anybody wants to see the post containing the repair video for the MK4 window motor then it's here:
http://www.tigerstyle.co.uk/poloforum/v ... be9e59277b
Electric Window problems - any suggestions?
Just to follow up: The '6N3 998 801 A' repair kit does not work for the MK5. I learnt this the hard way - buying one from VW, removing the motor and regulator only to see that the cog wont fit and I managed to break the clips on the regulator window clamp bits! Oh well - just ordered a new motor and regulator for my drivers side. £128 from VAG Parts - ouch! Still cheap compared to a VW dealership. I will do the passenger side when I can next afford it.Ive seen a video in the MK4 section that shows a repair procedure for the motor using a VW repair kit - 6N3 998 801 A. It seems that there is a toothed cog inside the motor that gets damaged and stops the motor winding down - however it seems that it's still works for winding up. Anybody know if this is also a problem on the MK5 version of the motor? Is there an equivalent kit for the MK5 version?
Anybody know the procedure for installing a new regulator - specifically the bit where you have to slot the window into the two clamps? Any advice much appreciated!
I've got exactly the same problem with my estate and my brother (who owned the car previously and has already replaced BOTH! motors and regulators), claims he can probably swap them both in a couple of hours once I've got the parts. If you haven't already sorted yours out, I'll make notes and pass on any useful tips.
There's still hope for the 6N3 998 801 A repair kit!
Thanks for the reply Peagreen.
Ive now fitted the drivers side regulator and motor and it's working nicely. Im going to tackle the passenger side at the weekend.
The only part Im not sure about is getting to the motor to remove it. Because the window is stuck in the up position you can't get to the window clamps to remove the window from the regulator. It also makes it very hard to get the screwdriver to the motor as the regulator is not manouverable enough. With the drivers side I ended up having to force the regulator into a position that I could get to the motor but this broke the two plastic tabs that hold the window clamps. This could have just been me getting frustrated and not taking my time though! I will take my time on the passenger side and post back for future reference, with my findings and whether or not the repair kit sorted the problem!
Cheers
Marc
Ive now fitted the drivers side regulator and motor and it's working nicely. Im going to tackle the passenger side at the weekend.
Since posting that, I have taken apart the busted motor and actually found that the cog I got with the repair kit IS the same as the one in the motor (im 95% sure anyway and will compare them tonight)! Im now going to see if the repair kit will fix the passenger side problem.Just to follow up: The '6N3 998 801 A' repair kit does not work for the MK5.
The only part Im not sure about is getting to the motor to remove it. Because the window is stuck in the up position you can't get to the window clamps to remove the window from the regulator. It also makes it very hard to get the screwdriver to the motor as the regulator is not manouverable enough. With the drivers side I ended up having to force the regulator into a position that I could get to the motor but this broke the two plastic tabs that hold the window clamps. This could have just been me getting frustrated and not taking my time though! I will take my time on the passenger side and post back for future reference, with my findings and whether or not the repair kit sorted the problem!
Cheers
Marc
Did anybody download the window repair tech video?
Did anybody download the VW window repair video I mentioned earlier in the thread? The link is now dead and I can't find it anywhere else on the web. If you did and you're able to send it on to me please let me know. I will then host it and make it available to download.
Thanks
Marc
Thanks
Marc
Follow up and and end solution
The '6N3 998 801 A' repair kit DOES work for the MK5. I just repaired my passenger side window.
The teeth on the small spindle part of the cog get slightly bent and end up jamming when the window is fully up.
It's relatively easy to remove the regulator and motor to replace the cog and I urge anybody who has their windows stuck in the up position but can still hear the clicking of the switches when operated, to buy the repair kit and save themselves a small fortune. (Actually first make sure that you don't just have a broken earth wire in the loom between the car and the door as this can quite often get frayed).
The teeth on the small spindle part of the cog get slightly bent and end up jamming when the window is fully up.
It's relatively easy to remove the regulator and motor to replace the cog and I urge anybody who has their windows stuck in the up position but can still hear the clicking of the switches when operated, to buy the repair kit and save themselves a small fortune. (Actually first make sure that you don't just have a broken earth wire in the loom between the car and the door as this can quite often get frayed).
-
cheekyroberto
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Re: Follow up and and end solution
Is this a description of what goes wrong with the original part?marcman wrote:The teeth on the small spindle part of the cog get slightly bent and end up jamming when the window is fully up.
Yes, there is a plastic/nylon cog that sits inside the motor. It has a protruding spindle like, toothed cog that sticks out of the motor and into the regulator. It seems that the teeth on the spindle bit get slightly bent over time and in turn get jammed on the teeth of the regulator. This ony seems to happen when the window is fully up (closed) and it wont go down.The teeth on the small spindle part of the cog get slightly bent and end up jamming when the window is fully up.
Is this a description of what goes wrong with the original part?
The repair kit contains a new cog and a tube of silicon grease to lube it. It also has an electrical connector but this isnt needed or compatible with the mk5.
There was an official VW tech video (in german) that showed the removal of the motor and regulator and the installation of the new cog on a mk4 and the proceedure was pretty much identical to that on the mk5. Unfortunately the link to said video is now dead and I didnt download it.
If your window is stuck in the up position and you can still hear a faint click in the motor when you operate the switch, then Im quite sure that the repair kit will do the job but first make sure that you dont have a problem with the wiring loom between the car and the door.
Good luck
Marcman
I got mine from a VW dealership. They had to special order it but it only took 2 days. price was about £28 inc. You can get it much cheaper from VAGparts 01793 487700 but they werent answering the phone when I needed it!polo TDI wrote:Marcman
please can you tell mewhere you got the '6N3 998 801 A' repair kit from?
If you need any advice on installing it, LMK
Good luck.
Re: There's still hope for the 6N3 998 801 A repair kit!
I still haven't done mine. However, if you have any top tips on getting the bits out with the window up (without breaking anything vital), I'd be very greaful.marcman wrote:Because the window is stuck in the up position you can't get to the window clamps to remove the window from the regulator. It also makes it very hard to get the screwdriver to the motor as the regulator is not manouverable enough.
Instructions for installing the window motor repair kit
I just found the VW service video that shows you how to do the job. It's on a mk4 but it's pretty much the same as the mk5 procedure. Make sure you download it and watch it (ignore the sound as it's in german) - it doesnt show you everything so also follow my instructions below:
http://rs298.rapidshare.com/files/16081 ... 6n_1_.mpeg
I wrote these instructions for somebody else ages ago - they reported back that they were perfect. It might be a little vague at points - I wrote it from memory so some bits may not be exact - they should be understandable though!
1. remove door card
with the chrome door handle pulled, insert screwdriver behind it so you can lever the plastic planel off that runs down the plastic door handle.
Unscrew the two screws that are behind this panel
Now unscrew the single screw that is at the leading edge of the door card, in front of the mirror
Now carefully put a large, flat headed screwdriver between the door and the door card to lever it off. I found the best place to start was the bottom corner (not hinge side). Lever it gently until you hear one of the plastic popper studs pop off. Work your way around the card until they have all popped. Although a certain amount of force is needed, dont be too aggressive as they can break with too much force.
Now lift the card up over the lock button while working it off the chrome door handle - hard to explain but obvious when you're doing it
Now disconnect any leads that go to the door buttons - windows buttons, mirrors etc. If its the drivers side, remember which order the two window buttons go
2. Remove the inner door membrane
Unscrew the speaker, disconnect and remove it.
Now take off the chrome door handle - it slides forwards (maybe backwards) to come off, and then disconnect the wire rod from the handle too
Remove the black plastic poppers from all round the door - they slide off of the white plastic bits that hold them in place. Have a carefull look at them to see what I mean.
Remove any plastic brackets so you can remove the membrane - you will see what i mean when you do it.
Now gently pull the edge of the membrane outwards and with a sharp blade score/cut through the sticky black stuff that holds it on. I actually just pulled mine off without cutting it but I ended up tearing it slightly in a couple of places. I left the bottom edge attached so it was easy to put back on again.
Unscrew and remove the speaker bracket
3. Remove the motor and regulator. (the regulator is the mechanism consisting of the two runners and the cables and the winder)
Please note - I may have one or two of these steps in the wrong order - namely the motor and winder removal bit - you may have to remove the motor from the regulatior bracket before the winder - the correct way will be apparant when you are doing it
There are four large nuts that need undoing - 1 on each corner of the regulator - remove these (it could even be 5 if theres one on the motor)
You should now be able to slightly move the whole mechanism, by hand, so you can reposition the motor part so it's accessible through the gaps in the metal door plate, with a screw driver - you might actually need a torx driver for this bit but can't remember (a torx has a 6 pointed star shaped end) - you will be able to see when you get to this point. DONT force the regulator too much as you will break the plastic bits that hold the clamps for the window. You will be able to manouvere it enough to get to it. What you are trying to do here is unscrew and free the winder mechanism from the actual motor. There are also white plastic spacers between the mechanism and the door (they might actually be between the bracket and motor so will be removed later, I cant remember - see below) - make sure these dont get lost when removing (and remember to put them back again when rebuilding). Once you have unscrewed it you will need to carefully prize it off with a screwdriver making sure that the wound cable stays within the body of the winder.
Once you have disconnected the winder from the motor you will be able to manually push the window down by hand. you need to do this so you can undo the clamps that hold the window in place. As the window comes down you will be able to see a clamp either side. When each of the clamps line up with a hole in the metal of the door frame you will be able to unscrew them using a nutdriver, so you can release the window. Once unscrewed, lift the window back up out of the clamps to a closed position (by lifting from the bottom edge of the window).
You now need to tape the window in place to stop it falling down. This is best done with two people but I managed it on my own by wedging a piece of wood under the window to hold it in place (wood needs to be roughly the right length to wedge between the bottom of the door and the window). Tape all around the window using electrical tape (masking tape might work too) making sure you press it down very firmly all round, making contact with both the window and door frame. Now manouvere the regulator so you can remove it. When you can get to the connector on the motor, disconnect it - you may be able to do this at an earlier stage than now. Be warned - this connector can be a real b*tch to get off. Its just a larger version of the speaker connector so make sure you understand how it works by studying the speaker one before attempting to remove it. You may be lucky and it might come off easily for you - I hope it does.
Now lay the regulator out on the ground - it's the easiest way to work with this.
Remove the motor from the regulator bracket. Again I think you need a torx driver for this. There are also white plastic spacers between the regulator bracket and the motor (they might be between the bracket and the door - cant remember) - make sure these dont get lost when removing. Remember the above procedure might be to remove the motor first before the winder while the regulator is still in the door. It can only be done one way so you'll work it out! once you have removed this you can then unscrew the gold coloured plate from the motor - behind this is the cog that you are replacing. Remove the old cog.
Now follow the instructions included with the repair kit to add the silicon grease to the new cog.
Putting everything back together is pretty much a reversal of everything you have already done.
Put the motor back together. Connect the winder back on to the motor.
At this point I actually connected the motor back to its electrical harness and reconnected the switch to make sure the repair had worked and that the motor now turns and makes the regulator clamps go up and down - you will figure out how to best do this yourself! You will need to disconnect them again when tested.
Now screw the motor and winder back on to the regulator bracket. Now manouvere the regulator back into the door. Now put the 4 (or 5) nuts back each corner. Best not to do them up too tightly yet as you may need to slightly reposition things.
Once its back in connect the motors electrics harness back up.
You might now need to connect the switch again so you can get the clamps in the right posisiton. Once the clamps are in a place where they are accessible with nutdriver, take the tape off the window and lower it into the two clamps and tighten them back up again. Now make sure it all works without binding up anwhere. When satisfied, tighten everything up.
Screw the speaker bracket back in
Put the door membrane back on
Slide the popper studs back on
Reconnect the speaker and screw in
reconnect the door handle and reattach to door
reconnect all buttons to door card
Put door card back on, over lock button making sure you oput the door handle throughWhen in place, push firmly all round edges to make sure it pops back on to the studs at all locations
Put the 3 screws back in (2 in handle, 1 at front)
And you should be good to go!
Good luck - report back to the forum on your results and correct my instructions if any of them were wrong
Cheers
Marc
http://rs298.rapidshare.com/files/16081 ... 6n_1_.mpeg
I wrote these instructions for somebody else ages ago - they reported back that they were perfect. It might be a little vague at points - I wrote it from memory so some bits may not be exact - they should be understandable though!
1. remove door card
with the chrome door handle pulled, insert screwdriver behind it so you can lever the plastic planel off that runs down the plastic door handle.
Unscrew the two screws that are behind this panel
Now unscrew the single screw that is at the leading edge of the door card, in front of the mirror
Now carefully put a large, flat headed screwdriver between the door and the door card to lever it off. I found the best place to start was the bottom corner (not hinge side). Lever it gently until you hear one of the plastic popper studs pop off. Work your way around the card until they have all popped. Although a certain amount of force is needed, dont be too aggressive as they can break with too much force.
Now lift the card up over the lock button while working it off the chrome door handle - hard to explain but obvious when you're doing it
Now disconnect any leads that go to the door buttons - windows buttons, mirrors etc. If its the drivers side, remember which order the two window buttons go
2. Remove the inner door membrane
Unscrew the speaker, disconnect and remove it.
Now take off the chrome door handle - it slides forwards (maybe backwards) to come off, and then disconnect the wire rod from the handle too
Remove the black plastic poppers from all round the door - they slide off of the white plastic bits that hold them in place. Have a carefull look at them to see what I mean.
Remove any plastic brackets so you can remove the membrane - you will see what i mean when you do it.
Now gently pull the edge of the membrane outwards and with a sharp blade score/cut through the sticky black stuff that holds it on. I actually just pulled mine off without cutting it but I ended up tearing it slightly in a couple of places. I left the bottom edge attached so it was easy to put back on again.
Unscrew and remove the speaker bracket
3. Remove the motor and regulator. (the regulator is the mechanism consisting of the two runners and the cables and the winder)
Please note - I may have one or two of these steps in the wrong order - namely the motor and winder removal bit - you may have to remove the motor from the regulatior bracket before the winder - the correct way will be apparant when you are doing it
There are four large nuts that need undoing - 1 on each corner of the regulator - remove these (it could even be 5 if theres one on the motor)
You should now be able to slightly move the whole mechanism, by hand, so you can reposition the motor part so it's accessible through the gaps in the metal door plate, with a screw driver - you might actually need a torx driver for this bit but can't remember (a torx has a 6 pointed star shaped end) - you will be able to see when you get to this point. DONT force the regulator too much as you will break the plastic bits that hold the clamps for the window. You will be able to manouvere it enough to get to it. What you are trying to do here is unscrew and free the winder mechanism from the actual motor. There are also white plastic spacers between the mechanism and the door (they might actually be between the bracket and motor so will be removed later, I cant remember - see below) - make sure these dont get lost when removing (and remember to put them back again when rebuilding). Once you have unscrewed it you will need to carefully prize it off with a screwdriver making sure that the wound cable stays within the body of the winder.
Once you have disconnected the winder from the motor you will be able to manually push the window down by hand. you need to do this so you can undo the clamps that hold the window in place. As the window comes down you will be able to see a clamp either side. When each of the clamps line up with a hole in the metal of the door frame you will be able to unscrew them using a nutdriver, so you can release the window. Once unscrewed, lift the window back up out of the clamps to a closed position (by lifting from the bottom edge of the window).
You now need to tape the window in place to stop it falling down. This is best done with two people but I managed it on my own by wedging a piece of wood under the window to hold it in place (wood needs to be roughly the right length to wedge between the bottom of the door and the window). Tape all around the window using electrical tape (masking tape might work too) making sure you press it down very firmly all round, making contact with both the window and door frame. Now manouvere the regulator so you can remove it. When you can get to the connector on the motor, disconnect it - you may be able to do this at an earlier stage than now. Be warned - this connector can be a real b*tch to get off. Its just a larger version of the speaker connector so make sure you understand how it works by studying the speaker one before attempting to remove it. You may be lucky and it might come off easily for you - I hope it does.
Now lay the regulator out on the ground - it's the easiest way to work with this.
Remove the motor from the regulator bracket. Again I think you need a torx driver for this. There are also white plastic spacers between the regulator bracket and the motor (they might be between the bracket and the door - cant remember) - make sure these dont get lost when removing. Remember the above procedure might be to remove the motor first before the winder while the regulator is still in the door. It can only be done one way so you'll work it out! once you have removed this you can then unscrew the gold coloured plate from the motor - behind this is the cog that you are replacing. Remove the old cog.
Now follow the instructions included with the repair kit to add the silicon grease to the new cog.
Putting everything back together is pretty much a reversal of everything you have already done.
Put the motor back together. Connect the winder back on to the motor.
At this point I actually connected the motor back to its electrical harness and reconnected the switch to make sure the repair had worked and that the motor now turns and makes the regulator clamps go up and down - you will figure out how to best do this yourself! You will need to disconnect them again when tested.
Now screw the motor and winder back on to the regulator bracket. Now manouvere the regulator back into the door. Now put the 4 (or 5) nuts back each corner. Best not to do them up too tightly yet as you may need to slightly reposition things.
Once its back in connect the motors electrics harness back up.
You might now need to connect the switch again so you can get the clamps in the right posisiton. Once the clamps are in a place where they are accessible with nutdriver, take the tape off the window and lower it into the two clamps and tighten them back up again. Now make sure it all works without binding up anwhere. When satisfied, tighten everything up.
Screw the speaker bracket back in
Put the door membrane back on
Slide the popper studs back on
Reconnect the speaker and screw in
reconnect the door handle and reattach to door
reconnect all buttons to door card
Put door card back on, over lock button making sure you oput the door handle throughWhen in place, push firmly all round edges to make sure it pops back on to the studs at all locations
Put the 3 screws back in (2 in handle, 1 at front)
And you should be good to go!
Good luck - report back to the forum on your results and correct my instructions if any of them were wrong
Cheers
Marc