Fuel Flap Open and Closing Mechanism Polo 6R

[cheba]

I was just thinking that these bcm are installed in different VW models, perhaps some of these models have a different setting for tank filler flap. I do not know...
However, thank you very much for commenting what the user manual says ... you know ... the user manual disappears after the first day of use.

When I have time for a new session with VCDS cable I will investigate on this.
You can also do it ...

It may be a different setting in different models, that is true. However the fuel flap lock has stopped working even though I haven't changed any setting whatsoever.

Thanks for the help, unforunately I don't have VCDS myself. I have a friend who has it though, I might have to arrange a meeting with him to check for fault codes.

Or I might just go and but a new actuator and try it since I heard it's not an expensive part.

[cheba]

Same problem here. The fuel flap mechanism doesn't lock when the car is locked.

By now I haven't seen a test option for this on VCDS. Also there is no error for this one.

Okay, then I guess the only way to test it is by replacing the actuator and see if it works.

[cheba]

Just a thought: is there any way to use a multimeter on the 2-wire connector of the actuator (located below the right taillight, accessible from inside the boot) to see if the problem is in the actuator or not?

[RUM4MO]

Just a thought: is there any way to use a multimeter on the 2-wire connector of the actuator (located below the right taillight, accessible from inside the boot) to see if the problem is in the actuator or not?

I would doubt if you will be able to make much sense of anything using a DMM, the "method" of operating for this lock is probably a short pulse to rotate the pin to drive the bolt in a bit. also to reverse that and drive it out a bit.

Applying 12 volts across these pins would probably just overheat/burn-out the coil, you could check the DC resistance of the mechanism and compare that with the new one, by which time you are just going through the motions as you have paid your money, but it might assist others to put into print the two resistance values, new and old.

[cheba]

Just a thought: is there any way to use a multimeter on the 2-wire connector of the actuator (located below the right taillight, accessible from inside the boot) to see if the problem is in the actuator or not?

I would doubt if you will be able to make much sense of anything using a DMM, the "method" of operating for this lock is probably a short pulse to rotate the pin to drive the bolt in a bit. also to reverse that and drive it out a bit.

Applying 12 volts across these pins would probably just overheat/burn-out the coil, you could check the DC resistance of the mechanism and compare that with the new one, by which time you are just going through the motions as you have paid your money, but it might assist others to put into print the two resistance values, new and old.

I guessed that would be the case, since pretty much everything in a car is controlled by canbus, so you can't measure the signal unless you have an oscilloscope.

[dsorinn]

I'd like to start by apologizing for my english. It's been a while since I've stopped studying it and it's a bit hard to express everything I want to say

Well, today I made time and managed to fix this problem. Unfortunately I only had time to repair it, but not enough time for a DIY.

Short story:

I've taken the flap assembly out and opened it. I managed to do this without unplugging the wire from the car. In the assembly there is a connector for the electrical engine and if you pull hard enough it will come off without damaging something. I've done this by mistake. Unplugging the actual wire from the car is really time costly and a waste of time, in my opinion.

Anyway, I've opened the assembly and found out that the electrical motor works but might be to weak to do it's job. I've tried all kind of things to make the motor work better, but nothing worked after I've put the back of the assembly. It only worked without the back on. In this case I looked closer to the pin that comes out (the one that opens and closes) and I think that this might be the problem. At least in my case. Inside there is a spring that is pressured by the back panel of the assemble. That spring is too big/strong and presses to hard on the locking mechanism and won't be able to lock the pin, since it's not in a good position. The electrical motor doesn't have enough power. But, if the pin is in the right position, the locking system works every time. In this case I've cut 1-2 cm from the spring. It's not much since the length of the spring is about 10 cm. After cutting the spring, I reassembled the mechanism and now it works every time.

This was in my case. I think the spring is too hard and forces, in time, the pin to stay lower than it should. So, the electrical motor won't be able to lock it.

[RUM4MO]

Hopefully, VW have now modified that assembly. My wife had a 2002 Polo 9N and the fuel flap locking mechanism never failed to work in 106K miles and 13 years, is it is possible for that general design of lock to keep working okay.

[cheba]

I'd like to start by apologizing for my english. It's been a while since I've stopped studying it and it's a bit hard to express everything I want to say

Well, today I made time and managed to fix this problem. Unfortunately I only had time to repair it, but not enough time for a DIY.

Short story:

I've taken the flap assembly out and opened it. I managed to do this without unplugging the wire from the car. In the assembly there is a connector for the electrical engine and if you pull hard enough it will come off without damaging something. I've done this by mistake. Unplugging the actual wire from the car is really time costly and a waste of time, in my opinion.

Anyway, I've opened the assembly and found out that the electrical motor works but might be to weak to do it's job. I've tried all kind of things to make the motor work better, but nothing worked after I've put the back of the assembly. It only worked without the back on. In this case I looked closer to the pin that comes out (the one that opens and closes) and I think that this might be the problem. At least in my case. Inside there is a spring that is pressured by the back panel of the assemble. That spring is too big/strong and presses to hard on the locking mechanism and won't be able to lock the pin, since it's not in a good position. The electrical motor doesn't have enough power. But, if the pin is in the right position, the locking system works every time. In this case I've cut 1-2 cm from the spring. It's not much since the length of the spring is about 10 cm. After cutting the spring, I reassembled the mechanism and now it works every time.

This was in my case. I think the spring is too hard and forces, in time, the pin to stay lower than it should. So, the electrical motor won't be able to lock it.

Don't worry, your English is just fine.

I just want to confirm, the assembly you opened and repaired, did it look like this one?

Hopefully, VW have now modified that assembly. My wife had a 2002 Polo 9N and the fuel flap locking mechanism never failed to work in 106K miles and 13 years, is it is possible for that general design of lock to keep working okay.

I think the Polo 6N had the system with the locking pin that slides from the side and locks the flap. That's how it was on my old Golf GTI mk3, and I never had a problem with it during the 8 years I owned it. Not even in the winter.

The Polo 6R and other newer models (like Golf mk7) has a different system where the flap is latched by a sliding and rotating pin which pops in/out when you press the flap. The locking mechanism is built in to the sliding pin mechanism and should prevent the pin from popping out when you press the flap while the car is locked.

[dsorinn]

@Cheba

Yes, that's the one

The connector for the electrical motor can be pulled out without damaging anything (it's made/covered of/with rubber), so you won't need to unplug the wire from the car. But when you assemble back the unit, the connector must be in the electrical motor and put together in the case. So it has to be done at the car.

[cheba]

@Cheba

Yes, that's the one

The connector for the electrical motor can be pulled out without damaging anything (it's made/covered of/with rubber), so you won't need to unplug the wire from the car. But when you assemble back the unit, the connector must be in the electrical motor and put together in the case. So it has to be done at the car.

OK, thank you for the info!

I already tried unplugging and plugging back the connector last week, from the inside of the trunk, under the taillight, but it didn't help. So it's not hard to unplug it, but as you say, probably not necessary unless you are changing the actuator for a new one.

Today after arriving at home after a drive, I locked the car and tried to open the fuel flap, and it was locked. I unlocked the car, and locked it again. Now the fuel flap wasn't locked. So it seems it's an intermittent problem. I will take out the actuator and open it up, maybe it could use a little lithium grease like ciclo suggested earlier in the thread.

[RUM4MO]

Trouble with lubricants like Lithium based grease is that for these low energy light weight actuators, the addition of a heavy grease will possible only make things worse, what you could try is something like Superlub which is silicon grease loaded with PTFE, if a very very small amount of that is applied to the moving parts surfaces, it should work. BTW I sounds like the 9N Polo version I was talking about is the same as the current ones in as much as it required "a press" to release/open an unlocked fuel flap, but when locked, "a press" did nothing to release/open the fuel flap.

I've been through this sort of thing in the past, my daughter had a 2002 6K Ibiza, the moving elements of the boot lock were plastic, previously VW had used alloy which was heavy enough for the solenoid to impart enough inertia to swing it across to fully lock or fully open, this newer/cheaper Seat part just did not have enough weight to work for too many years - lock actuator tended to get stuff halfway between the two states which meant the key or central locking could not overcome this issue - not handy!

[cheba]

Trouble with lubricants like Lithium based grease is that for these low energy light weight actuators, the addition of a heavy grease will possible only make things worse, what you could try is something like Superlub which is silicon grease loaded with PTFE, if a very very small amount of that is applied to the moving parts surfaces, it should work. BTW I sounds like the 9N Polo version I was talking about is the same as the current ones in as much as it required "a press" to release/open an unlocked fuel flap, but when locked, "a press" did nothing to release/open the fuel flap.

I've been through this sort of thing in the past, my daughter had a 2002 6K Ibiza, the moving elements of the boot lock were plastic, previously VW had used alloy which was heavy enough for the solenoid to impart enough inertia to swing it across to fully lock or fully open, this newer/cheaper Seat part just did not have enough weight to work for too many years - lock actuator tended to get stuff halfway between the two states which meant the key or central locking could not overcome this issue - not handy!

My bad, I was thinking of the 6N Polo, not the 9N. I guess the 9N also has a "press to open" flap, but the latching mechanism seems to be the same as the Golf mk5, i.e. different from the Golf mk7/Polo 6R.

[cheba]

I took out the tank flap unit to access the lock actuator. The plastic of the case is very stiff so it felt impossible to open it up without breaking all the plastic tabs. So I tried applying a bit of external violence by knocking on it with a screwdriver handle and it started working. Gave it some more knocking just to be sure, then tested it many times and it worked every time. Finally reinstalled it. Done in 10 minutes. If the problem returns I'll just go buy a new actuator since I know the problem is inside it, either a connection or friction issue.

[Mart!n-GTI-DK]

You need to drive more so you use more fuel... That way you fill the car up more often and that keeps the actuator working.

[cheba]

You need to drive more so you use more fuel... That way you fill the car up more often and that keeps the actuator working.

Good point there, I pretty much only drive to and from work (short trip) with the car right now. You know, with the weather here in southern Sweden this time of the year... Mostly rain, plus winter tires are mandatory now and they are crap on bare asphalt. And to make it even worse, roads are very dirty since the asphalt get worn down by studded tires so driving isn't that fun