Best wax for black cars

[Reebx3]

Hey am looking for a decent wax for my deep pearl black polo...
I bought that poor boys black hole and wasn't impressed with the finish so looking for something that makes it shiny as!

Cheers

[Willni]

I haven't used it personally but have seen the results of Collinite 915 , it's been widely regarded as the best wax on the market for the past few years, as well as being very cheap £30, very easy to work with because it's a low carnauba content.

I use Auto Finesse Illusion it's for show cars so it only lasts about 3 months but it's for any paint types solid, metallic, classic or new and it's easy on and off despite it's high carnauba content, bit more costly though £75.

edit : just as a follow up heres a pic of mine at the minute sort of rushed it due to needing the car the next day, so you can get far better results. All Autofinesse products used
list: tripple polish, glaze, rejuvenate and finished off with illusion wax

I doubt you'll see better clarity with other products *no editing done to the photo*

[SRGTD]

I don't have a black car currently, but have had many black and dark coloured cars in the past.

I'm sure that other forum members will suggest other waxes, as everyone will have their favourites. For ease of application and pretty good durability for a reasonable price (around £16), I find Collinite 845 hard to beat. It is a liquid wax, so is easy to apply, and easy to remove (easy on, easy off), although as with all waxes, less is more and it should be applied sparingly. Better to apply 2 layers of wax sparingly than 1 thicker layer. I find that Collinite has good durability too (I get a good 4+ months protection between applications), although it is important to ensure the paint is cleaned correctly (decontamination of tar and iron deposits with products like Tardis and Iron X, plus clawing) to ensure good adhesion of the wax to the paint and longevity of protection.

The condition of your paintwork will have a big impact on the level of shine or 'wetness' you are able to achieve. If your paintwork looks swirled in sunlight (if it is, it's likely to have been caused by poor washing technique), then you may need to consider getting it machine polished first to remove the swirls, or alternatively, use a polish like AutoGlym Super Resin (ASR) Polish before applying wax. ASR contains fillers that will 'fill' any swirl marks. This is only a temporary solution to getting rid of swirls though.

Poorboys Black Hole is a glaze, not a wax, so will offer little, if any protection. It's purpose is to enhance the shine. Black Hole contains fillers, so should mask some of the swirling (if present). I use this and find it to be good. I apply it to clean, decontaminated paintwork, and then apply a couple of layers of wax over the top, leaving a day between each wax application.

Here's a picture of my Blue Silk car, after paint decontamination, Dodo Juice Lime Prime applied with a DA (dual action) polisher, a layer of Poorboys Black Hole applied by hand, and 2 layers of Collinite 845 also applied by hand. For me, this combination gives a nice deep wet look shine. This was just over 3 months ago, and wax protection is still pretty good (good beading after rain).

[Reebx3]

Thanks guys been looking for something to give that wet look so will look into these waxes us have suggested

[green_comet]

You can't go wrong with Ioncoat Naviwax Dark, or if money is no object Kamikaze Infinity.

http://nubawax.com/Ioncoat-Naviwax-Dark

http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/kami ... -coat.aspx



Mine is coated with Kamikaze Miyabi and topped with Over Coat.

[iichel]

OH MY GOD LOOK AT WHAT THE WAX DID TO THE COLOR OF YOUR BLACK CARS

[RUM4MO]

Each to their own, that will just be "side tints" - they are still black, though the one above almost looks white, but there again might just be due to sunshine - we don't get that here!!!

[iichel]

28 degrees here in Switzerland

[georgebentham]

Firstly, black hole is a glaze - not a wax, so it's purpose is to go on after washing/drying to fill out swirls and add depth. (and for the record it is VERY good at that)
After this you need to wax and then seal your car if you want that deep wet look shine.
I use Fourthwax Summer wax and Fourthwax spray seal at the minute. Both very good.

[Willni]

Firstly, black hole is a glaze - not a wax, so it's purpose is to go on after washing/drying to fill out swirls and add depth. (and for the record it is VERY good at that)
After this you need to wax and then seal your car if you want that deep wet look shine.
I use Fourthwax Summer wax and Fourthwax spray seal at the minute. Both very good.

Actually Glaze goes on after polish to add depth and shine

[georgebentham]

Firstly, black hole is a glaze - not a wax, so it's purpose is to go on after washing/drying to fill out swirls and add depth. (and for the record it is VERY good at that)
After this you need to wax and then seal your car if you want that deep wet look shine.
I use Fourthwax Summer wax and Fourthwax spray seal at the minute. Both very good.

Actually Glaze goes on after polish to add depth and shine

You shouldn't need to polish in most circumstances, if you have decent paintwork then ACTUALLY the glaze would go on straight after washing/drying.

[Willni]

You shouldn't need to polish in most circumstances, if you have decent paintwork then ACTUALLY the glaze would go on straight after washing/drying.

By adding glaze after washing you are actually trapping these contaminants into the paint where they can do long term damage. This is why you must polish before hand as polish is abrasive and will remove these contaminants and correct any paint blemishes, preferably you want to clay bar before polish to remove the worst of them though.

Here's an infographic of the proper way to clean a car, at least steps 1-7 for paintwork, the others don't really matter for order.
http://visual.ly/car-detailing

[SRGTD]

Agree that contaminants should be removed before glazing and waxing, but as georgebentham has said, I find it's not necessary to always polish; it depends on paintwork condition. Use of a fallout remover such as IronX and a tar remover such as Tardis will remove much of the contamination. Then follow up by claying.

Wash / rinse and dry between each of the above stages. If the paintwork is in good condition (no scratches or swirling), then it shouldn't be necessary to polish before glazing / waxing, although it may be useful to use a paint cleaner such as Dodo Juice Lime Prime; will help glaze and wax bond to the paintwork and increase longevity of protection.

If paintwork is suffering from scratches and / or swirls, then I'd agree, polish after decontamination stage and before glazing / waxing.