Out of interest, just in case I end up needing to do this job, which puller kit did you buy, from where and what did it cost.
Also, did you hear noises when the clip engaged fully in its recess?
New caliper or rebuild?
-
spartacus68
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 119
- Joined: Sun May 26, 2019 9:32 pm
- Drives: SOLD: 2015 1.4 TDI (90PS) Blue motion
- Location: Aberdeenshire
Re: New caliper or rebuild?
I'll post up more pictures RUM4MO.
I bought from this seller. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-W ... Sw6IFetAU4
My experience of EBay tools is mixed. No doubt manufactured in China and resold.
The extraction was fine. As mentioned, doing the preparation work the week before helped. Useful to have the dust shield out of the way and the ABS sensor, but can be done in situ. Part of the reason for removing the dust shield it is to see the back of the hub so everything lines up. I used a second jack to lift the lower balljoint hub assembly so I could take pressure off ARB drop link, undo and remove top bolt only.
With the drive shaft out of the way, I used the black hub puller tool drive socket (featured in the picture of the tool set). It's 72mm in circumference so during extraction pulls through too.
When it was out I used a wire brush drill attachment to thoroughly clean the hub recess. On the outer facing of the hub is the recess, this is where the bearing cage or snap ring engages and locks the bearing in place. When you drive it out - the snap ring disintegrates.
With the recess totally clean, I smeared it with a dab of marine grease to lube. There's a recess at the back of the hub aperture too, so once the bearing is installed it sits snug as a bug.
On refitting I gently tapped the bearing with a hammer to seat it, then using the other set of clamps which grip the hub shoulder. Now this is where I noticed a problem with the tool. If I used the original black 72mm tool it would simply pull through. The only other part in the box is the silver hub socket, but if you applied pressure it looked like it was going to jam on the back of the hub, so I'd have a bearing installed and the tool I used to anchor it would be jammed solid? I did a couple of dry runs, with minimal pressure but could see this tool was going to be an issue. I grabbed a couple of flat multi-tool bike spanners and edged them in front of the anchor socket, that way it wasn't going to get suck in the back of the hub.
It winds in easily and as you get close to the bearing seating you can hear the snap ring or cage drop into place and you can't drive any more. I was using a Draper 1/2" breaker bar and it is definately the tool to use.
Everything else goes back on, then the hub nut with every the wheel still off. Torque up etc. I've never done a front bearing before, but once you've done one once or twice they are straight forward. Would be interested to know what VAG main dealer and and Indy would charge. Genuine FAG/SNR part is £70.
The tool is actually okay, but it's not a factory tool, or anywhere as precise as a Laser, Draper, etc.
I bought from this seller. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-W ... Sw6IFetAU4
My experience of EBay tools is mixed. No doubt manufactured in China and resold.
The extraction was fine. As mentioned, doing the preparation work the week before helped. Useful to have the dust shield out of the way and the ABS sensor, but can be done in situ. Part of the reason for removing the dust shield it is to see the back of the hub so everything lines up. I used a second jack to lift the lower balljoint hub assembly so I could take pressure off ARB drop link, undo and remove top bolt only.
With the drive shaft out of the way, I used the black hub puller tool drive socket (featured in the picture of the tool set). It's 72mm in circumference so during extraction pulls through too.
When it was out I used a wire brush drill attachment to thoroughly clean the hub recess. On the outer facing of the hub is the recess, this is where the bearing cage or snap ring engages and locks the bearing in place. When you drive it out - the snap ring disintegrates.
With the recess totally clean, I smeared it with a dab of marine grease to lube. There's a recess at the back of the hub aperture too, so once the bearing is installed it sits snug as a bug.
On refitting I gently tapped the bearing with a hammer to seat it, then using the other set of clamps which grip the hub shoulder. Now this is where I noticed a problem with the tool. If I used the original black 72mm tool it would simply pull through. The only other part in the box is the silver hub socket, but if you applied pressure it looked like it was going to jam on the back of the hub, so I'd have a bearing installed and the tool I used to anchor it would be jammed solid? I did a couple of dry runs, with minimal pressure but could see this tool was going to be an issue. I grabbed a couple of flat multi-tool bike spanners and edged them in front of the anchor socket, that way it wasn't going to get suck in the back of the hub.
It winds in easily and as you get close to the bearing seating you can hear the snap ring or cage drop into place and you can't drive any more. I was using a Draper 1/2" breaker bar and it is definately the tool to use.
Everything else goes back on, then the hub nut with every the wheel still off. Torque up etc. I've never done a front bearing before, but once you've done one once or twice they are straight forward. Would be interested to know what VAG main dealer and and Indy would charge. Genuine FAG/SNR part is £70.
The tool is actually okay, but it's not a factory tool, or anywhere as precise as a Laser, Draper, etc.
-
spartacus68
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 119
- Joined: Sun May 26, 2019 9:32 pm
- Drives: SOLD: 2015 1.4 TDI (90PS) Blue motion
- Location: Aberdeenshire
Re: New caliper or rebuild?
Pictures.
Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
-
RUM4MO
- Bling Bling Diamond Member
- Posts: 6069
- Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2006 9:12 pm
- Drives: B8 S4 & 6R/6C1 1.2TSI 110
- Location: Mid Lothian
Re: New caliper or rebuild?
Very good, I'm sure a lot of these cheaper tools will do the job quite a few times when handled with care, by DIYers, I bought a Neilsens(sp?) version of the tool to remove inner track racks and it worked okay twice, so really on 4 track rods, on an 9N Polo and 2009 Ibiza - and it still looks fit for future use and less than half the price of a similar Laser Tools version - which was probably just a rebranded "other" maker's offering.