Oil and filter change on a 2016 polo gti

[APgti]

Hello all,

I have just signed up here. New to VW just purchasing a 2016 Polo gti. Im not even sure what the specific details are, what Mk it is etc?

Im looking to change the oil and filter myself and was wondering if anyone can confirm the filter location? Also any specific oil recommendation, i believe standard is Castrol but I usually use opie oils and go for Fuchs oil.

Many thanks,

[Bepis]

Welcome

You have a Polo 6c otherwise known as a mk5 facelift with the 1.8TSi EA888 Gen3 engine. The engine is almost identical to that found in the likes of the mk7 Golf GTi so a lot of the engine-related tutorials and DIYs online for the 2.0TSi in the mk7 golfs can be used for the 1.8 in the polo.

The oil filter is a cartridge style and is a black cylinder with a 32mm nut molded into the top of it and can be found sitting vertically just above the alternator. The OEM for the filter element is MANN so if you can get a MANN filter for cheaper than VW go for it, however, my local VW dealer has been cheaper than MANN filters online and you need to buy a sump plug from them anyway.

As for oil the engine can use VW502 5w40 or VW504 5w30. If you're going to be changing the oil every 10k then use the 504 5w30 but I personally use a 502 5w40 as I also do my own oil changes every 5K and give it some stick every so often. As these engines run fairly hot with a running oil temp of 105°C I like the peace of mind of the thicker oil not thinning out as much with temperature when pushing on.

The engine also has a plastic sump with a plastic drain plug which has an o ring so ideally you need to change the sump plug every time you drain the oil. The engine oil capacity is 5.7 litres.

As for what oil to use a lot of it is personal preference to be honest. In this engine, I've used 5w30 Castrol Edge LL, Mobil 1 ESP, and Liqui Molu Top Tec 4200, and now 5w40 Motul 8100 X-cess. I found Castrol to be quite rattly on cold start and the Liuqui Moly overpriced. So my recommendation for a 5w30 would be Mobil 1 ESP. I switched to 5w40 Motul 8100 X-cess for the slightly thicker oil at temperature, the high SAPS content and HTHS and it's reasonably priced.

Good DIY video. It's for a Golf but the procedure is identical to the Polo. Just note that the long plastic piece coming from the filter housing seen in the video stays in the engine on the Polo so don't panic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5eUjUaiHjk

Service reminder reset for Polo 6C
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/8n2Tol2W5wQ

Key points:
Oil filter part number: 06L115562B or MANN HU 6013 z
Oil capacity: 5.7L
Drain plug part number: 06103801
Oil you can use: VW502 5W40 or VW504 5W30
Tools needed: 32mm socket(oil filter housing), T25(undertray screws), flathead screwdriver(sump plug and to remove old filter o ring), and if you want to a torque wrench for the filter housing.
Don't wind the filter all the way off immediately, it's mentioned in the video the filter housing has an anti-drain back valve which will release when the filter housing is unscrewed enough. Unscrew slowly until you hear a gurgling noise then let it drain into the sump for 30 seconds. I personally loosen the filter just before I go and remove the sump plug.
When re-filling, put 5.5L in, check the level, and start the engine. Let it idle for a minute then turn it off, sit for 30 seconds to a minute then recheck the level and fill appropriately as the filter housing will need to fill with oil reducing the amount in the sump.

If you want to put a bit of money toward some tools to make the job a bit easier:
BGS 9060(sump plug key)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01 ... UTF8&psc=1
BGS 8899(funnel)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01 ... UTF8&psc=1
BGS 8505-13P(funnel adapter)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07 ... UTF8&psc=1

Hopefully all that is of use to you

Put some good tyres and brakes on it and enjoy it. Just keep an eye and your nose out for oil and coolant leaks.

[APgti]

Hi Bepis,

In my almost 20 years experience using car forums, your reply has been the most welcoming and informative ever received. I am ver grateful as this answers my question and others i hadn't even asked yet!!

I thought that looked like the oil filter location but then thought to myself surely not? Iv never seen an oil filter in that location ever!!

Thank you again!!

[Bepis]

Not a problem

Have a search around the forum as there's already a lot of info on here for almost anything about these cars from everyone else on here.

Any questions or queries about the car feel free to pm me and I'd be happy to help as best I can .

[APgti]

Thank you!!

Is it worth staying genuine vw only for the drain plug? I asl as on ebay you can get x5 “oe quality” for the same price?

[APgti]

Another question i have thought of, do these engines have a “major” service? Belts etc, and of so what is the interval on that?

[Bepis]

For the drain plug, I'd personally stick with genuine as no reputable aftermarket brand really makes them and they're only a couple of quid and it's responsible for keeping the oil in your engine.

As for a major service, it'd probably just be an oil change with spark plugs, air filter, and cabin filter every 40k or 4 years. The 1.8 TSi is chain driven so no timing belt to replace. At 60k and 6 years the auxiliary belt on mine looked perfectly fine although a contitech (OEM) belt was only £14.

VW don't list the fuel filter on the service schedule for their petrol cars but I tend to get it changed every 40-60k miles as no filter is "lifetime" and it also has the fuel pressure regulator built into it. It's also quite open to the elements so prone to corrosion but that is more of an issue for older vehicles.

Fuel filter part number: 1K0201051K or MANN WK 69. The GTi has a 6.6 BAR fuel pressure regulator.
Spark plugs: NGK PLFER7A8EG
Air filter: 6C0129620 or MANN C 29 029
Cabin filter: MANN 26 010 with a CU, CUK or FP prefix for their various filter types. I use an FP 26 010 as they're quite a robust filter and can be hoovered out to get some more life out of them. Their "Biofunctional" stuff also goes some way to help make it so my aircon doesn't stink after not being used in the winter months.

Brake fluid should be done every 2 years.

Air con can be re-gassed as and when needed. Approaching 8 years old, if it's not been done it might be worth doing it's up to you.

Another item to consider changing on somewhat of a schedule is the PCV valve/module. A few online resources recommend changing it every 50-60k but I was having issues blowing oil seals at 30K and now approaching 66k miles I haven't had any more go since changing it at 40K.
PCV part number: 06K103495BL £70~

The main oil seals that will fail are the oil filler cap, upper timing cover, camshaft VVT solenoid seals, exhaust cam solenoid seals, and the rear main seal. I personally had the oil filler cap, an exhaust camshaft solenoid seal, the upper timing cover, and the VVT solenoid seals fail before changing the PCV.

Another thing to note is the water pump and thermostat housing. They're notorious for leaking on the Gen 3 engines and aren't a quick, cheap, or easy job to do. So while you're under the car doing the oil, look at the front of the block and sump for a pink/white residue coming from higher up in the middle as that will indicate a leaking water pump and thermostat housing. Mine had failed when I bought the car with only 24k on it but was luckily covered under warranty. The bill for that would have been just shy of £750 so if you're still within your 30 days of purchase from a dealer definitely have a look.

[APgti]

Thanks again, really really helpful!!

Another question, i believe where the cup holder is there should be a red light. I think the bulb must have gone as it doesnt light up. Do you know if its easy to replace the bulb?

[Bepis]

There isn't a light in the cupholder(or mines been broken since I got the car ) but there is a red ring around the 12v cigarette lighter port that lights up with the ignition and the lights on.

[APgti]

Thats right, the glow from the red ring also shines i to the back part near where the cup holders are. This cigarette lighter bulb was t working so i bought the special tool to pull the inner sleeve out and have replaced the bulb