Changing the timing toothed belt on EA211 engines. (-1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6- TSI or MPI)

[ciclo]

I bring you a question that perhaps someone can answer.

I would like to know your knowledge/conclusions/opinions etc. due to watching on YouTube (in many languages, English, German, Portuguese, Polish, Spanish, Italian, etc.) that many 'workshops' around the world that make the change of the timing toothed belt in these engines do it incorrectly (IMHO)...
Very few or none adjust the pulleys when performing the procedure of removing and installing the timing toothed belt 'that is indicated in the repair manual'.
The customer gets a belt change and a mismatch of the camshaft pulleys, that is, worse car than before the belt change. It may be within tolerances, but it is a worse car.

Keep in mind that pulley 'alignment' is not the same as 'adjusting' pulleys.

Alignment:

(example, there may be slight variations depending on the engine)

Adjusting:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buCx-fN7xRQ
This same procedure is perfectly explained in the repair manual and must be carried out if the procedure of removing and installing the timing toothed belt 'according to the repair manual' has been followed.




My question is:
Why are the securing bolts removed from camshafts pulleys (inlet-exhaust) with camshaft adjuster when changing the toothed belt? Is it necessary/mandatory? If yes, why?

Note: on non-turbo engines the exhaust camshaft pulley does not have a camshaft adjuster. It is a simple toothed pulley.

I would like to know your opinion/knowledge. TIA.

[amer6R]

can you check what autodata says, many mechanic use their guides

[ciclo]

yeah, I understand...
...but it is obvious that in many cases/videos they have followed the repair manual to place the tools that immobilize the crankshaft and camshafts at TDC position.


(there are other models than those indicated with the arrows, it depends on the engine)

Once the tools have been fitted correctly, especially the 'extra' tool (image above, arrows) that secures the camshafts in opposite side to the pulleys, why do they remove the securing bolts from the pulleys to perform a simple replacement of the securing bolts ... and thus lose the perfect factory position of the camshaft adjusters/pulleys...

Or maybe the bolts need to be replaced for some hidden reason?
What do you think?

[RUM4MO]

I've got nothing to add to this, but I agree that any/all workshops, including VW Group ones, do not seem to be able, prior to the later tooling becoming available, to be able to deliberately reset everything back to being within spec - and so you do tend to hear of people's cars ending up not working as smoothly after a belt change than they did before that belt change. That has always been one of the main reasons that I did not get the belt replaced on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS.

Hopefully, just hopefully, VW Group will have addressed that issue by introducing this later tooling that has angular readouts, the actual description of that kit in that publication does not make it sound that this is the real reason for them bringing out that new tooling - ie it gets called "tester of elongation of chain links" - is that an error, or was that the real reason for that tooling to be introduced, ie to check for chain stretch on engines with chain driven cam shafts?

[amer6R]

Maybe they remove the sporcket for easier belt instal
As i see there arent any m6/m8 bolts to allow the sprocket free play to make the belt go on easier

[ciclo]

yeah, I also reflected that the VAS 611007 is described in the repair manual as the tester for checking elongation of 'chain links', but I can't figure out which engine codes with 'chain' this tester is applicable to.
The tester adapters appear to be only for engines EA211 with timing toothed 'belt', as shown in the video.

Well, removing the engine mount/support you have good access to all the parts for the timing toothed belt. It is the most used method along with the 'extra' tools for securing the camshafts and the bolt for the TDC. Once the tensioner is loosened, the timing toothed belt comes out freely without effort. Replacing the belt is a really simple process.





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This last image has special relevance in three-cylinder engines, the pulley 'vibration damper' in these engines is unbalanced.

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I think it is better not to remove the securing bolts of the camshaft adjusters/pulleys when replacing the timing belt if you do not have the VAS 611007 tester.



Logically, if the engine is out of sync or there are oil leaks from the camshaft adjuster retainers, it will be mandatory to replace the timing toothed belt, the camshaft adjuster securing bolts, etc (kit). so the procedures of Alignment and 'Adjustment' will be absolutely necessary.

[ciclo]

In the name of love, I have added some images in my previous post. Maybe someone needs them...


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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdgO-ZE6lKM&t=179s

[ciclo]