Ignition coil puller comparison

[R826583]

Has anyone had any experience with either of these ignition coil pullers? I’m trying to decide which one to go with.

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IMG_1404.jpeg (76.46 KiB) Viewed 2558 times

The latter one seems to apply more even pressure to the ignition coil from two points rather than one.

[R826583]

I’m also looking for a suitable silicone grease for the ignition coil contacts. I assume this will do?

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[ciclo]

Regarding coil removal tools, I have both:
- The first is the one indicated for the ignition coils of your engine.
- The second is for 'older' or thinner ignition coils, it will not work for your current engine coils (I used it for our ex-9N3 1.2l and others).


Any silicone grease will do the job. I use Permatex.

[R826583]

Great to know. Thanks for clarifying on that. I’ll get the Permatex grease, it’s even on sale from Amazon. Do you usually check the spark plug tip clearance with feeler gauges? I’m getting the OEM VW NGK spark plugs so I’m not sure if this is necessary, although I’ve seen a few websites talk about doing this.

[2226]

I would check gap regardless. The NGK I purchased recently were all fine, but I have purchased plugs for other vehicles before that indicated they were pre-gapped yet still needed adjustment.

You can use a silicone paste instead of the Permatex. Either will do. I used a generic silicone paste that I also use for brakes.

As for the puller; first try pulling the coil by hand. I was also prepping to have a fight on my hands after seeing other experiences online, but to my surprise they lifted out by hand with no effort at all. Well, 3 did without issue, but the 4th one (you will soon know which one) is in an awkward position. Using 2 cable ties slipped under the coil head and then passed through a screwdriver allows you lift it out. There are other tricks for removing stuck coils by using compressed air.

But I do like special single-purpose tools and if that was readily available here I would have picked one up.

Also, get yourself a set of hose clamp pliers. You will need to remove intake hoses to get to one of the coils.
I don't know how I managed without these:
https://www.amazon.com.au/XEERUN-Straig ... B0CJ9BZBW1

I paid around 30AUD for a pair here. I'm sure you can find cheaper there outside of Amazon.
Maybe this set:
https://www.radum.com.au/product/14884- ... rs-9pc-set

Previously used channel locks, etc, to remove the clamps for the intake hoses. These turn the job into a pleasure.

[ciclo]

Great to know. Thanks for clarifying on that. I’ll get the Permatex grease, it’s even on sale from Amazon. Do you usually check the spark plug tip clearance with feeler gauges? I’m getting the OEM VW NGK spark plugs so I’m not sure if this is necessary, although I’ve seen a few websites talk about doing this.

For your engine here is the electrode gap.


For the current spark plugs, a long time ago I read somewhere (I don't remember if in the maintenance book, in the repair manual or in the installation instructions that are attached to the spark plug boxes) that it is not allowed to modify the electrode gap, it is predefined from the factory.
I have had no problems with this, the performance was optimal just as they came from the factory. I always visually observe the gap as an inspection but I do not modify it.
Personally, I haven't used the feeler gauges for this for a long time.

[R826583]

I figure it can’t hurt to check the gap anyway in the unlikely event it isn’t correct. Thanks for the gap distance Ciclo. Was that screenshot in the 6R_6C repair manuals that I downloaded? I’m still learning my way around where things are in the PDFs

I have heard the ignition coils can put up a fight. I’ll report back as to how it goes when I swap them. I did get myself a pair of clamp removers to remove the hose claps when changing the air filter a few weeks ago, so that’s ready to go!

[RUM4MO]

I used my coil remover, similar to the first picture, where you grip the coil via the securing bolt hole by expanding the end of that design of tool, on a 2.0TSI EA888, first spark plug for that car, and it worked very well.

I've also got a very long spark plug socket that has magnets to hold the spark part, I bought that very long spark plug socket initially to replace the spark plugs on my wife's previous car, a 2002 VW Polo 1.4, then used it on my 2011 Audi S4, then again with my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, then again with my younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI, and lastly on my older daughter's SEAT Leon Cupra 2.0TSI. No doubt it will get used, along with the coil removal tool when my mate's 2019 VW T-Roc 1.5TSI eventually gets its spark plugs replaced. No extension is needed when using that very long spark plug socket.

[ciclo]

I figure it can’t hurt to check the gap anyway in the unlikely event it isn’t correct. Thanks for the gap distance Ciclo. Was that screenshot in the 6R_6C repair manuals that I downloaded? I’m still learning my way around where things are in the PDFs

I have heard the ignition coils can put up a fight. I’ll report back as to how it goes when I swap them. I did get myself a pair of clamp removers to remove the hose claps when changing the air filter a few weeks ago, so that’s ready to go!

Yes.
Workshop Manual
Polo 2014 ➤
4-cyl. direct injection (1.2 l, 4V, EA 211, turbocharger)
Engine ID CJZC CJZD

---

I have this tool to remove the spark plugs that is extraordinarily long and robust that hooks the spark plugs with a retaining rubber.
In the big MM toolbox I have another one with spark plug retention rubber in which an extension can be attached and torque can be applied.

[2226]

The much longer sockets (250mm long) do a fantastic job of refitting the plugs. No wiggling and guessing. They also have a magnet instead of rubber plug retainer. I've had those retainers pull out of the socket before, but that was no problem on older engines with more accessible plugs. But either of these will work well; just that one feeds my special tool fetish.

I'd get the long plug socket if available, but looking on Australian Amazon you guys seem to pay premium on just about everything.

As mentioned, gap is worth checking but not necessary. They pre-gap modern plugs because the possible damage that can be done to the fine platinum electrodes when using a feeler gauge incorrectly. Older plugs I've always adjusted. I've just turned 50 so my age is beginning to show with the "don't trust a gap" thing.

[R826583]

Thank you RUM4MO, Ciclo, and 2226, that’a really valuable to hear which tools you use from your experience.

My plan was to use a 16mm magnetic socket going into a 3/8” drive 250mm extension bar (then into my breaker bar for removal, and torque wrench for installation). I absolutely get why the 250mm spark plug socket would be easier! However, as 2226 said we Australians pay a premium of everything Will I get away with my proposed setup? I would like to hold off getting the 250mm spark plug socket for now (as I’ve just spent a small fortune on servicing parts). However, if not using the tool will give issues I will absolutely get one. My only concern was the 3/8” drive 250mm extension bar not fitting in the spark plug hole. I have no reference as to how wide the hole is without taking out an ignition coil (I’m still waiting on my ignition coil puller to arrive).

With the help of everyone on the forum today I have purchased the: oil(with filter and sump plug / washer), brake fluid, spark plugs, fuel filter, and poly v-belt. It’s a bit of a weird mix for the major service but I have serviced the brake pads, air filter and cabin air filter a few thousands kilometres ago, so I am finishing off the service list for the 120,000km service (which I’m doing early - I’m current sitting at 105,000km). Speaking of brake fluid, I had to buy 2x 1L containers as that is all that was available from VW. If I use around 1.1L and have 0.9L left in the second bottle will it last until the next service if I reseal the bottle? I hear that brake fluid is extremely hydroscopic.

[RUM4MO]

The much longer sockets (250mm long) do a fantastic job of refitting the plugs. No wiggling and guessing. They also have a magnet instead of rubber plug retainer. I've had those retainers pull out of the socket before, but that was no problem on older engines with more accessible plugs. But either of these will work well; just that one feeds my special tool fetish.

I'd get the long plug socket if available, but looking on Australian Amazon you guys seem to pay premium on just about everything.

As mentioned, gap is worth checking but not necessary. They pre-gap modern plugs because the possible damage that can be done to the fine platinum electrodes when using a feeler gauge incorrectly. Older plugs I've always adjusted. I've just turned 50 so my age is beginning to show with the "don't trust a gap" thing.

Yes, leaving the rubber down on the newly fitted spark plug was annoying on indirect injection petrol engines, but in some cases you could reach down with long nosed pliers and grab it back out, same for the other issue which could be leaving the socket complete with the rubber bit down on the spark plug - I've had both happen to me so I ended up using 2 spark plug sockets, one with the rubber insert to initially fit the plug loosely and then remove it and change to the one with the rubber removed for the final tightening! Okay having a locking extension would have stopped that happening - if I had one. Then DI petrol engines came along with spark plugs always deep down into the cylinder head, luckily for me I had had enough of the older/shorter spark plug sockets and discovered that Laser Tools had started marketing a really really long spark plug socket, that also had magnets instead of rubber insert - so right away I could see that both of the issues I had been up against had been removed! Laser Tools 3682 is 16mm and 245mm long and 3/8" sqr drv - sorted!

I'll admit, I'm a bit over 70 but I do trust the factory gap setting especially as these plugs are packaged with a sleeve to protect that end of the spark plugs - though, I did think after I changed the spark plugs on my daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra - should I have checked the gaps, laziness I'm sorry to say! I do have sets of feeler gauges, Imperial set, a "metric" set which I found out after buying them that is just Imperial sizes re-identified with crazy metric sizes, so a few years later I bought a proper metric set!

[2226]

Thank you RUM4MO, Ciclo, and 2226, that’a really valuable to hear which tools you use from your experience.

My plan was to use a 16mm magnetic socket going into a 3/8” drive 250mm extension bar (then into my breaker bar for removal, and torque wrench for installation). I absolutely get why the 250mm spark plug socket would be easier! However, as 2226 said we Australians pay a premium of everything Will I get away with my proposed setup? I would like to hold off getting the 250mm spark plug socket for now (as I’ve just spent a small fortune on servicing parts). However, if not using the tool will give issues I will absolutely get one. My only concern was the 3/8” drive 250mm extension bar not fitting in the spark plug hole. I have no reference as to how wide the hole is without taking out an ignition coil (I’m still waiting on my ignition coil puller to arrive).

With the help of everyone on the forum today I have purchased the: oil(with filter and sump plug / washer), brake fluid, spark plugs, fuel filter, and poly v-belt. It’s a bit of a weird mix for the major service but I have serviced the brake pads, air filter and cabin air filter a few thousands kilometres ago, so I am finishing off the service list for the 120,000km service (which I’m doing early - I’m current sitting at 105,000km). Speaking of brake fluid, I had to buy 2x 1L containers as that is all that was available from VW. If I use around 1.1L and have 0.9L left in the second bottle will it last until the next service if I reseal the bottle? I hear that brake fluid is extremely hydroscopic.

I hear you on the small fortune.
A 5L can of oil for this car would get me 4 oil changes in my previous one.
And the worst part is it eats that expensive oil!

You'll be fine with a 16mm spark plug socket and extension.
If that's a 16mm plug socket then shouldn't be problem at all. Most of them are or should be thin wall.
My long plug socket has an OD of 21mm if you need a reference; but there was still space around that socket.

Try something like this if you're worried the extension might pull out of the socket:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20 ... g.2012143/

Did that before in a comical setup of several extensions trying to reach a difficult bolt.

Never sure on leaving a bottle of brake fluid on a shelf. Depends how long you letting it sit there.
There is often always a bit of waste that can't be avoided.
Doubt you'll have much left of the 2L anyway. If the system takes 1.1L then you're going to use more than that during the bleed as you run the lines clear.

But that reminds me... I need to do my brake fluid. It's gone pretty dark. Don't these need a low viscosity fluid?

[R826583]

That is all very useful to know. Thank you!

I am still waiting for the ignition coil puller to come in, but hopefully I should be able to get the job done in the next week or so.

Re the brake fluid I purchased 2x B000750M3 which as iichel pointed out when I was finding the part number in another topic it is the recommended DOT4 fluid (for my Polo 6C at least). I couldn’t comment on the viscosity, except the fluid sounds like water sloshing when the container is shook, so I guess it is pretty low viscosity from my scientific analysis

[RUM4MO]

That VW Group version of brake fluid is low viscosity version of DOT4, I think that the situation is, there is only currently “DOT4” as a way to classify this brake fluid, ie its generic spec. When ESP etc came along, it became apparent that it would be beneficial to lower the viscosity - but it seemed that there was not enough of a change from the original DOT4 spec to justify bringing out another DOT classification/spec, and so on the aftermarket there is old version DOT4 and later version, and so lower viscosity DOT4 - if you dig down using the current VW Group spec for that product, you will find that it does conform to this lower viscosity.

That is when, if you blindly look for cheapest DOT4 brake fluid inevitably you will be looking at the older higher viscosity versions, I’d think that the jury is still out on if you MUST only ever use this fluid, but why take the risk.

Other smart providers of DOT4 brake fluids tend to refer to them as DOT4+ or DOT4 ESP and maybe other titles, most proper car parts sellers will by using your car details, point you to the correct version - in the UK even Halfords have got this right!