Giannis20vt's Polo 6c 1.0MPI

[giannis20vt]

Hello,
I read about the possible "habit" of coolant G13 to clog pipes..

So i am thinking change the G13 with the newer G12 EVO coolant.
I read the treads of Ciclo and iichels
viewtopic.php?t=78017&start=90
viewtopic.php?p=598477#p598477

Both of you have changed the expansion tank also. Why did you change it ? Is it necessary ? (it is because of that silicat bag ? Mine doesn't have the sign "mit silikat" )
Is the process of changing the coolant as simple as it seems? Draining the old coolant and then adding the new? Or does it need a flush before adding the new coolant?

PS. a video showing the process
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffZRYoqT9RM

[iichel]

I changed the expansion tank because of the silicat bag. My tank also had g13 written. Two reasons to change it.

Changing does not drain the system, there will be some g13 left. If you want to lose all (or most) g13, you have to repeat. Or flush with distilled water and add g12 evo concentrate.

[Le_Combattant]

I changed the expansion tank because of the silicat bag. My tank also had g13 written. Two reasons to change it.

Changing does not drain the system, there will be some g13 left. If you want to lose all (or most) g13, you have to repeat. Or flush with distilled water and add g12 evo concentrate.

I just watch your videos (Polo and 7.5).

My Polo is a 6C from 2014 and it's still running on it's original coolant pump and G13 was changed 2 years ago.
I'm also worried about G13 cons point and maybe should I consider to swipe to G12evo.

My plan is:

Removing the expension.
Install the new one and fill it with G12 evo.
Run the engine with maxium aircond temp
Open the return line to a container
Fill expansion tank as it will empty

Wait until color change.

Seems good ?

[ciclo]

I renewed the coolant because it is something that should be done every 'X' amount of time, normally it is indicated every 2 years, but it largely depends on many engine operating conditions. In non-extreme climates and with 'normal' driving/use, the useful life of the coolant can be greatly extended (2>4 years).

We all know old engines that are more than 15 years old in which the coolant was never changed, even more years and they work relatively normally, but this cannot be done with current engines, the calibrated passages through which the coolant circulates are very narrow, and the materials of the engines are more sensitive so as not to go into further explanations. The coolant needs to be in perfect>good working condition at all times if you want to extend the life of the engine.

According to the repair manual, the coolant replacement procedure is very similar in almost all engines (with the original VAS tool, a vacuum system), and you must also take into account whether your engine requires a bleeding procedure. ODIS S tells you if it is necessary to bleed the cooling system on your engine. It is normally applied to diesel engines and I think in larger displacement engines with a more complex cooling system.

Draining the coolant through the radiator is what the manual says, but it does not renew all the coolant in all the pipes, narrow passages, pumps, thermostats, etc... if you do not have the VAS vacuum system to achieve it.
If you renew the coolant through the return pipe that reaches the expansion tank, with the engine at operating temperature and idle, making the mechanical pump, the electric pump and the radiator fan work, you will be able to expel the 100% of the old coolant without having to drain it through the radiator pipes.
You have to keep some type of liquid in the expansion tank at all times while the old coolant is evacuated through the return pipe, either 'distilled water' to clean/flush the system or the new coolant, which will be responsible for expelling the old coolant.
'Never' use tap water, wine, beer, spirits, or other atrocities.

My Golf was not affected by the G13 and silicate bag problem, it did not have the silicate bag, which is indicated on the expansion tanks of the affected engines, but I changed the tank because it had the G13 icon drawn on the surface. Due to the bad reputation of the G13, it is better to get it out of the way to avoid confusion in case of repairs, sale of the vehicle, etc.
There are those who paint the expansion tank with a marker... in my most sincere and humble opinion, I think it is not the best for vehicles of 'very high international prestige'. All my respects and I understand everyone's conditions and needs.
My expansion tank now it is just the icon without any nomenclature, 'currently' the G12evo is the one indicated for all engines.

[giannis20vt]

Thank you for your answers and Information.

So the change of the expansion tank is recommended only for removing the silicate bag.

I don't have the VAS vacuum system so i have to do it manually.
I made this picture from Ciclo's instructions



Am I understanding this correctly?

[Le_Combattant]

I renewed the coolant because it is something that should be done every 'X' amount of time, normally it is indicated every 2 years, but it largely depends on many engine operating conditions. In non-extreme climates and with 'normal' driving/use, the useful life of the coolant can be greatly extended (2>4 years).

We all know old engines that are more than 15 years old in which the coolant was never changed, even more years and they work relatively normally, but this cannot be done with current engines, the calibrated passages through which the coolant circulates are very narrow, and the materials of the engines are more sensitive so as not to go into further explanations. The coolant needs to be in perfect>good working condition at all times if you want to extend the life of the engine.

According to the repair manual, the coolant replacement procedure is very similar in almost all engines (with the original VAS tool, a vacuum system), and you must also take into account whether your engine requires a bleeding procedure. ODIS S tells you if it is necessary to bleed the cooling system on your engine. It is normally applied to diesel engines and I think in larger displacement engines with a more complex cooling system.

Draining the coolant through the radiator is what the manual says, but it does not renew all the coolant in all the pipes, narrow passages, pumps, thermostats, etc... if you do not have the VAS vacuum system to achieve it.
If you renew the coolant through the return pipe that reaches the expansion tank, with the engine at operating temperature and idle, making the mechanical pump, the electric pump and the radiator fan work, you will be able to expel the 100% of the old coolant without having to drain it through the radiator pipes.
You have to keep some type of liquid in the expansion tank at all times while the old coolant is evacuated through the return pipe, either 'distilled water' to clean/flush the system or the new coolant, which will be responsible for expelling the old coolant.
'Never' use tap water, wine, beer, spirits, or other atrocities.

My Golf was not affected by the G13 and silicate bag problem, it did not have the silicate bag, which is indicated on the expansion tanks of the affected engines, but I changed the tank because it had the G13 icon drawn on the surface. Due to the bad reputation of the G13, it is better to get it out of the way to avoid confusion in case of repairs, sale of the vehicle, etc.
There are those who paint the expansion tank with a marker... in my most sincere and humble opinion, I think it is not the best for vehicles of 'very high international prestige'. All my respects and I understand everyone's conditions and needs.
My expansion tank now it is just the icon without any nomenclature, 'currently' the G12evo is the one indicated for all engines.

Thank you for all the details.

Procedure seems to be simple and straight forward.
Tomorrow I will go to my dealer ship to ask for 2*5L of G12Evo plus the new expansion tank.

Because your car is a 6R with the EA111, mine is a EA211, so no problem in term of compatibility.

[iichel]

The reason I did write G12 Evo on my bottle is because otherwise it refers to the manual and the manual doesn't refer to G12 Evo.

[Le_Combattant]

The reason I did write G12 Evo on my bottle is because otherwise it refers to the manual and the manual doesn't refer to G12 Evo.

Seems to be obvious.
I will see If I can print a sticker at the size of the black mark on the expansion tank and put it on it.

[giannis20vt]

Swap infotainment unit from Composition touch to Composition color.

From this



to this


Easy swap, the new unit was used, but there wasn't any problem. Four screws and the connectors, that's it.


We did the part declaration and the connection to the car's GATEWAY via ODIS-s without any problems. Coding and adaptation also without any problem.

I made this change because i want to install a rearview camera. There is a separate discussion for this subject there
https://www.uk-polos.net/viewtopic.php?t=78347

[giannis20vt]

Today I was ready to do the regular service in my car.
I couldn't find the gap that the spark plugs should have. The engine is the CΗΥΒ with 55kw.
I think it should be 1mm but i am not sure. Does anyone know this information ?

[ciclo]

The distance/gap between electrodes is determined by the spark plug manufacturer and cannot be modified under any circumstances, as this would damage the electrodes.

Within the three possibilities for your engine, 04C905606A -in use-, 04C905616D -retired-, 04C905616A -retired-, the distance between electrodes is indicated at 1mm for all of them.

04C905606A is the most up-to-date.

[giannis20vt]

The distance/gap between electrodes is determined by the spark plug manufacturer and cannot be modified under any circumstances, as this would damage the electrodes.

Within the three possibilities for your engine, 04C905606A -in use-, 04C905616D -retired-, 04C905616A -retired-, the distance between electrodes is indicated at 1mm for all of them.

04C905606A is the most up-to-date.

Thank you Fernando.
I have purchased the specific spark plugs, but I always check the gap to be sure. You know that something can be wrong (they can be hit, they can be inserted incorrectly from the factory, etc.) and the gap is not the right one.

[iichel]

I would recommend to check the gap before installation, exactly for the reasons you say. A thickness gauge is very useful. But I would not feel very comfortable changing the gap if it wasn't up to spec.

[ciclo]

Yes, I understand what you mean, factory quality control usually avoids those circumstances.

Protective measures are usually applied.

[giannis20vt]

Thank you both for the information. I really applicate your help.
In the afternoon I will measure the gap and then proceed to change all 3 spark plugs.