EA211 Oil Catch can

[2226]

That black stuff is probably just carbon, etc, in the oil vapour. It's probably just things condensing so all good.

I keep away from Castrol here. Castrol is what VW had from the factory. Even the oil cap is branded Castrol. I don't like that.
I've seen the huge drums at the dealership. Who knows what goes into the vehicles. On that oil clearly things get clogged up.

I desparately need to do oil service at month end so going to see if I can do the catch can at the same time.

[ciclo]

Hi 2226, I’ve been following your updates on the oil catch can setup... and the wet spark plug threads you mentioned (?) alongside your oil consumption issues.
Since we share similar engine platforms, I wanted to share a technical perspective that might help you target the root cause rather than just managing the symptoms.

A catch can is a great tool, but wet spark plug threads and high oil consumption usually point to an internal sealing issue, either failing valve stem seals or sticky/worn piston rings causing excessive blow-by.
The catch can will only act as a bucket to collect the oil your engine is already forcing out due to crankcase over pressurization. It won't fix the underlying mechanical cause.

Given your location in South Africa, fuel quality (high sulfur content) is a major factor. High sulfur creates acidic by-products that rapidly destroy standard oils (like Castrol or other Group III hydrocracked options), making them lose their viscosity and properties well before the interval.

You are doing the right thing with 15,000 km intervals, but the ultimate upgrade for your engine is switching to a 100% PAO (Polyalphaolefin - Group IV) base oil.
I highly recommend looking into Ravenol’s USVO® line instead of installing the catch can...

PAO oils have massive thermal stability, extreme resistance to fuel dilution/acidity, and a very low Noack volatility rating (meaning the oil simply doesn't evaporate or turn into sludge under stress).
Depending on what your manual allows, here are the best Ravenol PAO options for your EA211:
-If your manual requires VW 504.00 / 507.00 (5W-30): RAVENOL VMP 5W-30.
Why it helps:
It's a true PAO synthetic.
Its ultra-low evaporation rate will drastically reduce the oil mist travelling to your intake. Because of the USVO technology, it doesn't rely on cheap polymer thickeners that shear down, meaning it will maintain a strong film to help seal your cylinders and drop oil consumption.
-If your manual allows fixed intervals (VW 502.00 / 505.00 - 5W-40): RAVENOL VST 5W-40
Why it helps:
For hot climates and high-sulfur fuel, moving away from LongLife specs to a high-quality 5W-40 is a classic solution.
The VST 5W-40 provides a thicker oil film at operating temperatures. This extra "body" will help seal the worn areas currently wetting your spark plugs, control oil burning, and offer armor-like protection against fuel acidity.

My friendly advice before routing/install the hoses/catch can, try doing a proper engine flush (like Liqui Moly Engine Flush) to clear any ring deposits, and switch to a high-tier Ravenol PAO oil at your strict 15,000 km interval.
You might be surprised to see your oil consumption drop and your spark plugs dry up without modifying the factory PCV layout.

[juantecnico02]

Please play this video,
draw your own conclusions, and turn on the English subtitles.




https://youtu.be/u7E9Aq0_FVw?si=8_1rmUzzb_k0fsji

[ciclo]

Good video. It addresses the typical issues associated with TSI engines, topics that have been discussed here and on many other forums.

However, you can't generalize... there are many factors that determine why and when these problems/issues/symptoms arise.
There are TSI engines—on this planet—that reach the 200,000 km mark with standard maintenance intervals (15,000 or even 30,000 km) and small help in due time, and barely show these symptoms.
Geographic location is a very important factor, then the type of driving, and then everything else...

An oil change interval of 5,000 km is an ecological disaster... although, come to think of it, I shower daily for personal hygiene, so that could also be considered an ecological disaster, depending on how you look at it.

[2226]

Thanks, ciclo.

Here's the thing.
I have run Ravenol VST 5W-40. Great oil. High consumption at the start.
I have run Ravenol VMP 5W-30. Also great oil, less consumption.
My intervals are about 8000km to 10000km. It depends if I can afford the oil change when the time comes.

The VST has much higher TBN number which is good for my fuel. The VMP is lower, but I ran it see if it made a difference. Plenty of extra go from the car using VMP (thinner oil), but ideally it all started consuming again around the 1000km mark after doing the oil change.

In each oil change I run Ravenol Professional Engine Cleaner as the flush.
For my last oil change, I bought some cheap 5W-40 oil and ran that for 20 minutes with the Ravenol engine flush. Then did another oil change with Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40.
I also ran CRC Intake Cleaner through it (the rubbish one, not the PEA-loaded one they don't sell here anymore).
This was the biggest change yet. No oil consumption for thousands of kilometres.

That CRC cleaner is mostly naptha, but I think it helps to remove deposits when left to soak for a bit.
The CRC GDI cleaner with high PEA content is a heck of a thing. Pity I can get it here anymore. The amount of power that came back... OMG!

Helix Ultra is produced from natural gas and that naturally has a very low NOACK number. And it's SAPS content is right for my environment too.
VMP has lower NOACK than VST, and I think Helix is there around or below VMP. And I get the thicker viscocity for my country and driving habit.

I'm not doing the catch can thing to fix the oil consumption issue (heck, I could blame that consumption partly on the leaky oil separator). I'm adding it to help with that nasty intake valve build-up of these direct injection engines. Will it disappear? No. I think these engines simulate an EGR with their intake valve timing (probably why the thing only has an intake cam phaser).

So yeah, this is classic sticky rings so typical of these. And yes, I do believe using whatever Castrol oil VW got a special deal on causes the initial problem.

My next step is to use a ester-based oil. An expensive thing. Ester-based oils are exceptionally good at cleaning. It's why even companies like Ravenol run a little in the POA-based oils, from my understanding.
I will run Motul 300V 0W-40 through it for just a 5000km cycle. It's an expensive oil, but worth a try. If you think POA is strong, look at ester.
After that, back to regular oil. I've done a weird thing with the 300V to cut the costs .. I don't want to talk about it.

So I've run oils from Ravenol (VST, VMP) and even Wolfe for a bit, and Shell Helix Ultra, the Shell has been the most impressive.
It matches or beats VMP NOACK, and possibly beats VST TBN numbers. And it definitely beats both on price, although not by much. It definitely beats them on availability. If I run low on the Ravenol it's not a simple matter of going into the nearest motor parts store and picking up a 500ml bottle while I'm out in the countryside; I have to special order. Not the case with Shell.

Look, whatever process or ritual I have done since taking over servicing from the dealership has made a massive difference.
When I had it at the dealer getting it filled with the Castrol gabagoo it was consuming 500ml per 1000km! My recent oil change only saw consumption start again after 3000-3500km and very slowly.
Also let's not forget that VW gave me back my car once with just about no oil in it.

Now the interesting thing is that I have a colleague with a 6C 1.2TSI and DSG. No care in the world given to the car, just send for a service when the light comes on. Sitting at around 160,000km and no oil consumption. It's a 66Kw or 77Kw, not the 81KW CJZD I have. Difference? It's a highway miler and not a suburb lugger like mine. There's your problem.

[ciclo]

Wow, mate! it’s an absolute pleasure reading your reply, you clearly know your chemistry inside out and your maintenance routine is flawless.
I completely agree with you now, given your heavy suburban driving and fuel quality... Shell Helix Ultra (GTL technology is amazing) sounds like the perfect match for price, availability, and high TBN, and that Motul 300V Ester experiment sounds like a brilliant way to unstick those stubborn rings.

Best of luck with the catch can setup and the Ester cycle, you're doing an amazing job keeping that CJZD alive... and kicking.

[2226]

Ever visit the bobistheoilguy forums? Speak to people there ... I know exactly 0.000001% of what is happening with oils. It was those guys who recommended a single-shot of 300V.

We'll get there with this little car.
I have on numerous occassions considered getting a 6C GTI, but I don't want that extra fuel expense and even more complexity and part expense.

I cannot buy another car again. The new ones are rubbish. I don't want to get into a repayment plan again at my age. And it's becoming expensive to find good old cars now.
People charging 20,000Euro for a 1988 Mercedes W124 300TE, or 10000 Euros for a rusty old 1980 W123 now.
50,000 Euro for a 2009 1.6i citi golf anyone? Yes, that happened.

The Polo is 10-years old next year. I need another 10 from it.
My next car needs to be a Zimmer frame.

I still need to get the 2006 mk1 running again. It's just sitting in the driveway now for 5 years. My son is coming to the age of needing a car. Guess what he's going to be doing.

[2226]

Another note...

On oils... I have never thought I would spend this much time reading up on oils as I have with this car.
My previous cars, any 15W-40 or 20W-50 and they were happy. They didn't care. The more dead the dinosaur was, the more slippery it was. They just ran. Zero oil consumption.
Now everything is delicate.

That said, all the VW/Audi died/failed from some oil issue.
1989 Audi 200t: silicone through the oil pump.
1995 VW mk1 1.3: SAE30 reacting with synthetic 15W-40, blew all the gaskets below the head.
2006 VW mk1 1.4: my fault, but eventually blocked oil passage to the head or had the typical oil pump failure.

[ciclo]

Haha, that 'Zimmer frame' comment cracked me up! but as we say in the motoring world, it doesn’t matter what you ride, the important thing is to keep moving forward.

But jokes aside, I 100% share your philosophy, new cars are financial traps full of over-complicated rubbish, and classic prices are getting absolutely insane globally (maybe they have already peaked and will soon start to go down).
Getting another 10 years out of your Polo is a brilliant, common-sense goal, and it sounds like you are on the perfect track to do it. But what really blows me away is that 2006 Mk1 sitting in your driveway! A Citi Golf Mk1 is an absolute icon, and getting your son to bring it back to life after 5 years is the ultimate father-son project.
He is going to learn proper, real-world mechanics the hard way, and he’ll value that car a million times more because he built it with his own hands.
Good luck to your boy with the Mk1 project.

[2226]

Absolutely agree on that financial trap. It's just shocking what people do to have a modern car. 20% deposit, 40% residual/balloon payment, finance the middle portion. Takes 7 years now to get to the end of it to only find out you still need to settle 40% of the money.

In 2 minds about the mk1. Easy project to revive, but I'm pretty sure it's been hit. Bought it used from a VW dealership, but discovered afterwards the front of this car has been off. I believe they bought it from a rental company, then used it as the dealership runabout and somewhere in the missing mileage history they hit the front-end. The frame horns are slightly off, but it tracks straight and true. Over 150K km on it no major faults but the usual mk1 quirks. Will assess in December and decide what happens. New big end bearings + mains, new headgasket and it'll be good to go. Good car to learn in; no power steering, no ABS, no computers.