ok just to have some kind of mark in history to refer back to...
78780 miles, have just put not one, but 1.8 litres of oil into the engine, and it's finally topped up on the dipstick. just.
lets see how many miles til it needs another litre (or sets off the buzzer around corners!) again.
it just aint right!
thirsty bugger!
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Tahrey1043
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bstardchild
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Re: thirsty bugger!
Thats damm impressive - just under 48,000 miles per litreTahrey1043 wrote:ok just to have some kind of mark in history to refer back to...
78780 miles, have just put not one, but 1.8 litres of oil into the engine, and it's finally topped up on the dipstick. just.
lets see how many miles til it needs another litre (or sets off the buzzer around corners!) again.
it just aint right!
I personnally would think about changing it a bit more often
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Tahrey1043
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ya fool ian....... im sure its not been 500 since i last topped it
in fact let me have a look at my fuel log as i know where i was when i did it, and i topped the petrol off twice in about 50 miles at the time
....it was at least on 78130 o_O ... granted, it only came halfway up the dipstick after i put a litre in THAT time, but it's still the equivalent of 1.3L in about 650 miles, or 1 litre per 500
theres no obvious leaks apart from the usual wetness at the cam end, which might mean it's burning it instead. no smoke either though... (but as its still getting over 2000 miles per gallon of 10w40 thats understandable)
i'm just impressed at how well it was running, 800 mils below "MIN" (i tell thee, its something that makes your eyes stand out when you put a half litre in, and there's no change on the dipstick). only clues were the light/buzzer (when doing some HARD cornering) and a bit of a "sticky" start when i was running it to warm up before the first test. hardcore!
in fact let me have a look at my fuel log as i know where i was when i did it, and i topped the petrol off twice in about 50 miles at the time
....it was at least on 78130 o_O ... granted, it only came halfway up the dipstick after i put a litre in THAT time, but it's still the equivalent of 1.3L in about 650 miles, or 1 litre per 500
theres no obvious leaks apart from the usual wetness at the cam end, which might mean it's burning it instead. no smoke either though... (but as its still getting over 2000 miles per gallon of 10w40 thats understandable)
i'm just impressed at how well it was running, 800 mils below "MIN" (i tell thee, its something that makes your eyes stand out when you put a half litre in, and there's no change on the dipstick). only clues were the light/buzzer (when doing some HARD cornering) and a bit of a "sticky" start when i was running it to warm up before the first test. hardcore!
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Gareth_GT_Hatch
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Tahrey1043
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Well thats kind of the point - last time i checked it was about 600 miles and a little under two weeks before that monster top up. far more regular than anyone else i know. which is why im worried.. usually i could leave it to every couple of months and it would only need a top up every other time.
just hoping its a case of me badly misreading it before / neglecting it far more than i realised and having it drop down a looooooong way below standard - so that even the litre I dumped into it two weeks ago couldnt have helped matters. (less oil in engine = the remaining stuff gets used up more rapidly as well?)
going to try keeping better tabs on it this winter as it's always a hard starter when cold, and my journeys tend to have finished by the time the motor's got warm* (this weeks trip to notts will be a test..). Might put it up *slightly* over the max mark just to give the pump a little helping hand (or hunt out some 5w40.. -- if it continues swallowing 10w at this rate, i'll have to buy another carton before january's done anyway)
*last night was insane, driving around in 2nd/3rd just to keep the temperature up to about 60-65 so that i didnt die from exposure. definatley gotta get a new hot air hose on and block the cold intake.
just hoping its a case of me badly misreading it before / neglecting it far more than i realised and having it drop down a looooooong way below standard - so that even the litre I dumped into it two weeks ago couldnt have helped matters. (less oil in engine = the remaining stuff gets used up more rapidly as well?)
going to try keeping better tabs on it this winter as it's always a hard starter when cold, and my journeys tend to have finished by the time the motor's got warm* (this weeks trip to notts will be a test..). Might put it up *slightly* over the max mark just to give the pump a little helping hand (or hunt out some 5w40.. -- if it continues swallowing 10w at this rate, i'll have to buy another carton before january's done anyway)
*last night was insane, driving around in 2nd/3rd just to keep the temperature up to about 60-65 so that i didnt die from exposure. definatley gotta get a new hot air hose on and block the cold intake.
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GroovyCarrot
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Mine's been drinking oil recently.. been through 3 5l cans since I got the engine back together in september. Finally got round to changing the head gasket today, so that should stop a lot of it, as well as a new sump plug washer, but I think it's burning some as well 
Just have to see how much it uses now the leaks are fixed I guess.
Drinking fuel as well.. I've been doing an economy run this week to see how much of a difference it makes driving 'sensibly'.. and it went down by 1mpg
33mpg out of a 1 litre, wahay... Must find somewhere that sells refurbed carbs.. (Anyone know contact details for weber in the uk? My mechanic said he thought they had a trade in policy where you can trade in other makes of carb for a cut price weber, but I can't find their details anywhere..)
So tahrey, are you leaking oil or burning it? If it's a leak it's likely to be nice and easy to fix, good luck if it's burning oil though..
Just have to see how much it uses now the leaks are fixed I guess.Drinking fuel as well.. I've been doing an economy run this week to see how much of a difference it makes driving 'sensibly'.. and it went down by 1mpg
33mpg out of a 1 litre, wahay... Must find somewhere that sells refurbed carbs.. (Anyone know contact details for weber in the uk? My mechanic said he thought they had a trade in policy where you can trade in other makes of carb for a cut price weber, but I can't find their details anywhere..)So tahrey, are you leaking oil or burning it? If it's a leak it's likely to be nice and easy to fix, good luck if it's burning oil though..
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hardhitter
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Tahrey1043
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Yeah, burning oil is a sign of excessive bore wear or worn piston rings.
Are you getting any blow back or heavy engine breathing?
What you are best doing is getting a compression test done. The Haynes gives a nice DIY description of doing this, so all you will need is a compression tester (that meter that screws into the spark plug hole) and a frient to crank the engine.
You are able to diagnose a whole host of compression failures by doing this, one of which is worn piston rings or bore wear. If your engine is performing correctly, the compression sould peak after two turns of the engine. If it is failing, it will go up in more stages and more slowly. A good way of seeing if you have worn rings/bores is by pouring a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder. If the compression temperarily corrects itself, that's your problem (as the oil is hydraulically sealing the wear in the bores, for a short period.)
My advice, get a compression test done.
Are you getting any blow back or heavy engine breathing?
What you are best doing is getting a compression test done. The Haynes gives a nice DIY description of doing this, so all you will need is a compression tester (that meter that screws into the spark plug hole) and a frient to crank the engine.
You are able to diagnose a whole host of compression failures by doing this, one of which is worn piston rings or bore wear. If your engine is performing correctly, the compression sould peak after two turns of the engine. If it is failing, it will go up in more stages and more slowly. A good way of seeing if you have worn rings/bores is by pouring a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder. If the compression temperarily corrects itself, that's your problem (as the oil is hydraulically sealing the wear in the bores, for a short period.)
My advice, get a compression test done.
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GroovyCarrot
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If it turns out you need new rings, I've still got 4 pistons, unused rings and big end bearings sitting in my shed.. you're welcome to them, I can't see myself fitting them to this engine. If all goes to plan it'll only take you a day or so, just have to take the head and sump off, unbolt the old pistons, reverse procedure.. but I spent far too much time messing around doing this kind of thing through the summer and can't be bothered to go through it all again...
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Tahrey1043
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Sounds tricky, GC....... and "it'll only take a day" are famous last words that i've heard a couple times before with this car 
--- in the end it wouldn't be worth it unless the problem becomes chronic, i'll just shorten (and cheapen..) my selling-up gameplan (like i'll be driving a 1043 4-speed forever?) and find someone a bit clueless who, unlike myself, doesn't have a need to thrash the living daylights out of it in order to just about get performance up to their preferred level of progress (just pop a note under the filler flap saying "remember to check the oil NOW" 
)...
reduce the asking price quite a bit so they're not so ripped off, of course. It'll run on for a while after all, just slowly more sickly. Mate's panda (also thrashed til - literally - the wheels fell off) that went out the same way suffered in a drivable fashion for a good few months after the first power shortage was noticable.
(however, your solution would be fairly cheap i guess, if i could maybe borrow a torque wrench and a comfort blanket to cry into)
I'll give the compression test a go though, the meters aren't too pricey from halfords (what, £12?)... Or, would simply turning it over on a cold morning produce some kind of result? When the oil's in place and it's warm, it catches immediately (it's unreal, sometimes). Without, it can be 2 or 3 seconds and noticably several turns of the shaft.
--- in the end it wouldn't be worth it unless the problem becomes chronic, i'll just shorten (and cheapen..) my selling-up gameplan (like i'll be driving a 1043 4-speed forever?) and find someone a bit clueless who, unlike myself, doesn't have a need to thrash the living daylights out of it in order to just about get performance up to their preferred level of progress (just pop a note under the filler flap saying "remember to check the oil NOW" )...reduce the asking price quite a bit so they're not so ripped off, of course. It'll run on for a while after all, just slowly more sickly. Mate's panda (also thrashed til - literally - the wheels fell off) that went out the same way suffered in a drivable fashion for a good few months after the first power shortage was noticable.
(however, your solution would be fairly cheap i guess, if i could maybe borrow a torque wrench and a comfort blanket to cry into)
I'll give the compression test a go though, the meters aren't too pricey from halfords (what, £12?)... Or, would simply turning it over on a cold morning produce some kind of result? When the oil's in place and it's warm, it catches immediately (it's unreal, sometimes). Without, it can be 2 or 3 seconds and noticably several turns of the shaft.
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GroovyCarrot
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Nice find there.. but for the '81-'85 models, mine's an '86.. think it'd matter?bstardchild wrote:http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... RK:MEWA:IT
(Sorry for the thread hijack tahrey, but my carb's driving me up the wall at the moment..)
Well, yes. It's what I told myself the first time I tried to do that"it'll only take a day"
Although I think there was something seriously wrong with that engine.. slightly wondering now if I fitted the clutch right, never thought to check the alignment..So.. fit a G40, find a 5 speed box and modify it into a 6 speed for good measure, enjoy yourselflike i'll be driving a 1043 4-speed forever?
Well, I'm planning a trip to birmingham at some point soon to take a look around the university as I'm applying there, I'm sure I could bring a torque wrench and oily rag with me(however, your solution would be fairly cheap i guess, if i could maybe borrow a torque wrench and a comfort blanket to cry into)
it's always a hard starter when cold
Hello TahreyMight put it up *slightly* over the max mark just to give the pump a little helping hand
Please slap me upside the head here if i'm preaching to the converted, or if perhaps different things apply to Polo's than to Mini's. I know quite a bit about the consumption of oil, and the various ways it can find its way from your engine into the atmosphere or onto the ground, my old 1098cc A series had a similar oil consumption to its fuel consumption! (you think i'm kidding!?)
Anyway, regarding the quotes i posted above, if you actually overfill the engine with oil, especially in the winter, you will probably find it harder to start. The reason for that is that your battery is having to turn a crankshaft and con-rods through very thick cold oil. Imagine trying to run a wooden spoon through syrup when its just come out of the fridge, and then melt the syrup........ So if you overfill it even by just a little bit you are increasing the resistance of oil against the moving parts in the engine that the battery has to overcome even just to turn it over, before its even thought about building up a head of oil pressure. The same applies with the gearbox, I always start a car with the clutch down, one because it saves any nasty mistakes with strange motors and being in gear when you think you're not, and two it means the starter doesn't have to turn the whole transmission when trying to start the engine, it really is noticable on bigger vehicles like my 2.5 diesel Land Rover Defender 90, and i'm sure it will make a difference on even a Polo.
Like I said, sorry if you already are aware of all of that, just thought i'd share a little bit of my knowledge, been as though you were all so helpful when I first got my little VW!
Tom