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Golf 7.5. DCC Suspension. Fine-tuning for dataset V03935317XE. Spring-to-Dataset Frequency Matching.

As far as I am aware, the dataset V03935317XE belongs to the 'Arteon Elegance, R-line' versions... (without going into infinite variables and technical details).

This is the dataset I intentionally chose for the DCC unit '5Q0907376C' of my Golf 7.5 with 'factory standard suspension' when I installed the DCC suspension.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 14: Susp. Elect. (J250) Labels: 5Q0-907-376.clb
Part No SW: 5Q0 907 376 C HW: 5Q0 907 376 A
Component: DAEMPFUNGS-SG H17 0130
Serial number: 31051841350252 Dataset Number: V03935317XE 0001
ASAM Dataset: EV_DRCONTITEMIC 001019
ROD: EV_DRCONTITEMIC_VW37.rod
VCID: 392FD09879DE79A289D-806C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



They are excellent dataset for making 'my' Golf feel like it's on a magic carpet at all adjustment levels (1-15 on the slider - Individual MODE-).

Since then, enough time has passed to accurately understand and test all these suspension settings on all types of roads.

But, in Slider position 1, for 'extra' maximum comfort, and when driving over a very specific speed bump, and only on this particular bump with a very high hump, the rear suspension bottoms out. This doesn't happen in Slider position 2 or higher. It's a very, very specific issue.
Since I have to drive over this speed bump every day, I'm going to correct this small 'deviation'.

To prevent the rear suspension from bottoming out in Slider position 1 when going over this bump, I am going to opt for a mechanical solution: 'Original' Sport springs to lower the ride height by 15mm (not GTI, not R). This will allow me to maintain the same comfort across all 15 levels but within the range expected by this dataset V03935317XE... I might even get a slight improvement at the maximum sport setting.
Note:
In no case is my intention to reduce the height of the body, only to try to correct this slight 'deviation'. The small 15mm suspension lowering is just an addition to ensure that everything is in 'harmonic frequency'.

After collating a lot of data regarding the factory configuration of my Golf 1.0 TSI, manual gearbox, to choose the appropriate original sport springs (-15mm), I come to the following conclusion:

-Front springs.
From factory 5Q0411105GH (PR codes: G05 2UA) to 5Q0411105HA (PR codes: G06 2UC).
-Rear springs.
From factory 5Q0511121AC (Pr codes: 1JA 0YC) to 5Q0511121CC (Pr code: 1JC or 1JD + 0YC).

Eibach is perhaps the world's best manufacturer of springs, so the cross-references Eibach ERL for these original springs are:
Front: 5Q0411105HA ... R13936
Rear: 5Q0511121CC ... R11078
In Eibach, ERL stands for Eibach Replacement Line. This series is specifically designed as an Original Equipment (OE) quality replacement alternative.






Technically speaking, getting this exceptional Arteon dataset to work perfectly or align with the configuration of 'my' Golf and my retrofitted DCC suspension is a real labyrinth. I suppose I'd need a specific program for all sorts of calculations based on weights and inertias, but since all I have is my car and my senses, I'm going to try this new configuration.
My logic tells me I'm on the right track...

I will install these new springs according to erWin, just as I did when installing the DCC suspension, plus the basic settings of the units involved with ODIS S.







Looking at the new bolts I'm going to replace, you can probably guess how to do an efficient installation of springs. The remaining six small new nuts and bolts are in the garage, I had them left over from when I installed the DCC shocks.

I will do the installation when the environmental and surrounding conditions are most favorable.
I will report the results.

In any case, with the standard springs and this dataset, everything works really well, so this small adjustment wouldn't be necessary at all.
Finding the solution to this specific issue is purely a personal matter.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvWVTpG_Riw

For those who weren't yet familiar with this adaptation:

Recommended only for those whose senses and/or intellect are not yet impaired.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Znbgqi-0wY&t=79s
(EN: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsdZQub7QVE, FR: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mT3_3iUvoQ,
NL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZ656Akpo4U, DE: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BsFo5tvi7c )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWssqnzbleA

A few small details to keep in mind when installing new springs on a Golf 7/7.5

From least to most important:

1- Remember that the rubber stop has its housing...

... for some, this point doesn't seem entirely clear.

2- A great idea for holding the parts while releasing the spring compressor.

...and avoiding having to struggle with them. https://youtu.be/LGgka_ytHH4?t=173

3- Torque update for bolt WHT005437A according to erWin:


e2018

Related: viewtopic.php?p=603218#p603218
IMHO, it's best to apply full torque with the car jacked up (to protect the wheel bearing).

e2023

I don't know if this is due to the bolt's Property Class/Grade or the lateral preload applied to the wheel bearing.
Which engineer is responsible for this new torque on this bolt that also applies to the Golf 8?
Remember not to use an impact wrench, or the bearing will be damaged, and in a few thousand kilometers/milles you'll have to replace it...


When summer temperatures are more favorable, I'll install the Eibach ERL sport springs, it's still too hot.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zJx2R7TuDY

Test on the front shock absorber springs:

"Dual-Wall Adhesive-Lined FR Polyethylene Tubing".

Retraction ratio: 3:1. Diameter used: 15.4 mm. Final wall thickness: 1 mm.


This is an additional measure to avoid possible noise, oxidation/corrosion, and the use of inappropriate lubricating greases in metal-to-metal spring contact areas (especially copper grease).
To avoid arguments, this is an AI recommendation.

It might not be necessary on the front spring of the Golf 7.5, but it's the additional measure that I'm also going to apply to the springs of our Polo 6R in all areas where the springs are in metal-to-metal contact, which they are all, except at the top of the rear 6R springs.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL0srxY5NOA

...Fascinating, Supreme...

Since I'll be working on the rear axle sometime in the next few days , I'm going to replace the rear ABS speed sensors. It's something I've been thinking about and looked into for a while now.


The currently installed ones, version B, work perfectly for all the systems involved, but the new version C seems to be more accurate and effective.


Explanation from AI after some discussion and sharing my knowledge:

- Rear ABS Sensor Evolution MQB, etc... (1X0): WHT003864B vs WHT003864C (ETKA Supersession)
Quick technical breakdown regarding the evolution of the rear wheel speed sensors (ABS/ESC) for MQB platforms (etc.), specifically the supersession from version B to version C in ETKA.
Even though ETKA states it is a direct replacement, there is a clear geometric redesign of the sensing tip: version B looks like a "golf club", while version C features a "cricket bat/paddle" shape.

Here is the engineering rationale behind this hardware revision:
1. Sensing Window Optimization (Active Hall-Effect)Version B ("Golf Club"): Focused the sensor element on a very narrow area. Highly sensitive to air gap fluctuations (distance between the sensor tip and the wheel hub's magnetic ring).Version C ("Cricket Bat"): Broadens the magnetic flux capture area. By widening the reading surface, the sensor becomes significantly more resilient to wheel bearing axial play or hub vibrations under heavy cornering/rough roads, preventing signal dropouts.

2. Electromagnetic Noise Immunity & Hysteresis. The internal circuitry of version C was upgraded to enhance magnetic noise filtering. Modern driver-assist features (ACC Stop&Go, Front Assist, Park Assist) demand an ultra-clean square wave signal. Version C minimizes signal "noise" that typically triggers intermittent dashboard Christmas trees.

3. Debris & Brake Dust Deflection. The flat, streamlined profile of the C-version tip alters the micro-airflow inside the hub cavity. This prevents brake dust (ferodo) and metallic rust flakes from accumulating on the sensor face—a common issue on the older B-version that caused sensor blindness over time.

Installation Pro-Tips for Enthusiasts.
Compatibility: 100% Plug & Play. No coding or adaptation via VCDS/OBDeleven required.
Proper Fitment: Clean the knuckle bore thoroughly using a nylon brush and brake cleaner. NEVER use copper grease (suspended metal particles will magnetize, attracting debris and disrupting the Hall-effect readings). Install it completely dry or apply a micro-layer of 100% metal-free/dielectric ceramic grease only on the plastic body to prevent galvanic corrosion and future seizing inside the knuckle.

In my humble opinion, and I'm sorry to say, the best thing you can do right now is throw the copper grease away and use new lubricating greases.
Copper grease was very useful and effective for brainless iron cars , but nowadays it can be the cause of many problems.

---
Additional note:
The 'front ABS speed sensors' were also updated (to version B, WHT 003 860B, WHT 003 861B -> "cricket bat/paddle" shape), but those were already included in the new steering knuckles I bought for my DCC project.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73-yVb3wYwY

I've already removed the plenum chamber covers in the engine bay for 'easy access' to the upper shock absorber bolts (3 min), so replacing the suspension springs is now a must...



Note the 'free' wiper repositioning marks. V6 sound

Step by step...



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7ycfSVn6Cw

...while the temperatures gradually improve, which will allow me to work 'enthusiastically' on replacing the sport springs for the DCC electronic suspension, etc... I'm also thinking about improve the heated seats to ventilated seats too, just like Slavik did https://www.drive2.ru/l/735946289375612745/
It's easy, although a very fun process.

Hmm... so, let's try out these ventilated seats and see if they're worth it.











The ventilated seats are wonderful in my climate zone... that with/along the air suspension and other little things (full package) of this Porsche Panamera ST, it feels like you're living on Mount Olympus/Heaven... of the Gods.

In reality, I'm still doing some diagnostics/codings on family vehicles with the PIWIS -'Spectrum 82'- before starting with the Golf 7.5 springs replacement.
This V6 sounds delicious (just the way you like it... ...VROOOOOOOAMMMMMM...STUTUTU...BANG...POP...CRACKLE...BANG...FLAME-POW...PATA-PATA-PATA...TUTUTUTU-TATATA...BURBLE...) without any fantastic Soundaktor.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7mnTGVYY9Q

Golf 7.5. DCC Fine-Tuning - 'OEM' Sport Springs Installation. Result. Absolute Success!

Update on my Golf MK7.5 (1.0 TSI DKRF 6MT) DCC fine-tuning journey.
Previous info: viewtopic.php?p=610536#p610536 (read this page).

Following up on my last post regarding the minor bottoming-out issue with the Arteon dataset (V03935317XE) on extreme speed bumps in Slider Position 1 (maximum comfort), I finally pulled the trigger on the mechanical solution: fitting the OEM-equivalent sport springs (-15mm).

For those interested, I went with the Eibach Replacement Line (ERL) Sport range:
- Front: 5Q0411105HA (Eibach ref: R13936)
- Rear: 5Q0511121CC (Eibach ref: R11078)


Installation. 'Highlights'.

Simply showing an easy and efficient way to proceed without damaging the parts.

Front.





If you need more information you can consult erWin, the posts dedicated to installing DCC suspension in this thread, or 'some' video tutorials on YouTube.

Rear.









If you need more information you can consult erWin, the posts dedicated to installing DCC suspension in this thread, or 'some' video tutorials on YouTube.

After letting the springs settle for a brief period, I hooked up the car to ODIS Service to perform the basic adaptation for both the DCC and the Matrix LED headlights.
As expected, the DCC basic calibration went flawlessly with all four wheels completely off the ground (unloaded suspension).
Since this process reads the maximum extension voltage —which is dictated by the dampers' full travel and not the springs— the car drove just as beautifully before and after the ODIS reset.
However, the Matrix headlights calibration was absolutely necessary due to the geometry change.


Driving Impressions: Absolute Success!

To put it bluntly, this has been an absolute triumph. The speed bump where the rear torsion beam used to clunk/bottom out at 50 km/h in Slider Position 1 (max comfort) I can now smoothly glide over it at up to 70 km/h with zero drama. The damper valves are now operating perfectly within their optimal hardware window, the overall driving dynamics have been completely transformed without sacrificing a single bit of comfort.

-Slider Position 1 (Max Comfort): Incredibly plush, but now with a perfectly controlled rebound.
-The 15 Slider Steps: The entire adjustment range now feels crisp, refined, and exquisite.
-Slider Position 15 (Max Sport): It was already fun before, but now the car feels 'brand new', the highway lane changes and steering feedback are ultra-precise and direct.





It is incredibly fun to drive.


Aesthetics & Ride Height.

Even though these springs are technically rated for a -15mm drop, on my lightweight 1.0 TSI manual setup, they yielded closer to a -20mm drop. They will likely settle a tiny bit more over the coming kilometers, but the current stance is absolutely perfect. It doesn't look slammed or impractically low, it sits beautifully, looking much closer to a factory R-Line. Overall, I couldn't be happier with how this retrofit turned out.




Mechanical harmony achieved!



---

One final recommendation:
Even if your Golf doesn't have the DCC system and you are running the standard factory suspension, I highly recommend upgrading to the Eibach ERL Sport range.
The mechanical improvement in body control, reduced body roll, and steering precision —all while maintaining excellent daily comfort— is absolutely worth it. Just keep in mind that you need to look up the exact part numbers for your specific configuration, depending on your engine, gearbox, and whether you have a torsion beam or a multilink rear axle.

I might edit this post with some new images, data... and, for the time being, I decided not to install the new rear ABS sensors 'C' during the DCC fine-tuning tests and not to mix concepts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t13htKovSvM