Help me diagnose my vag-com results please!!!

matt59 · Post by **matt59** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 1:38 pm

Hi guys. I have a 2002 polo 1.9 tdi sport. I bought it at 73k and it's now on 103k. It's always had the same faults (detailed below) and i put it through a friends VAG-COM a few months back looking for any advice as to what is the problem.

Faults

Since we have had it, the lights (interior and Exterior) have flickered when at idle and revs. I always thought this was a bad earth until i got the diagnostic report back.

The power steering light comes on the dash intermitently. The power steering will then eventually stop working. Simply restarting the engine solves this.

Diagnostics - the following came up.

1 - Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-019-100.LBL
Part No: 038 906 019 AG
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 1506
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 00788
WVWZZZ9NZ2Y032938 VWZ7Z0A4262605
1 Fault Found:
17911 - Load Signal from Alternator Term. DF: Implausible Signal
P1503 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0 0 X X X

2 - Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: None
Part No: 6Q0 907 379 E
Component: ABS FRONT MK60 0103
Coding: 0001097
Shop #: WSC 00788
1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent

3 - Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Part No: 6Q0 820 045
Component: Klimaanlage X0840
3 Faults Found:
01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
01596 - Motor for Outside/Recirculated Air Flap (V154)
28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

4 - Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: None
Part No: 6Q1 937 049 B
Component: BORDNETZ-SG. 1S31
Coding: 09358
Shop #: WSC 00788
2 Faults Found:
01598 - Drive Battery Voltage
27-00 - Implausible Signal
01598 - Drive Battery Voltage
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

5 - address 44: Steering Assist Labels: None
Part No: 6Q0 423 156 M
Component: LenkhilfeTRW V210
Coding: 00120
Shop #: WSC 00788
1 Fault Found:
00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

My thought are that the fault in No. 1 (alternator) is causing No. 4 (battery vaultage problem) and then causing the power steering problem (No. 5). I'm a total novice to all of this and am guessing at what's at fault.

Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

Matt

Post by **alexperkins** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 2:20 pm

Alternator has problems from those errors for sure. Its not kicking correct voltage. Get a volt meter on the battery when its running. Should be between 13.4-13.8V

As for the recirc air flap, thats the recycle flap in the air system for the cabin gone wrong. Probs needs replacement

Power steering sensor looks like it might need replacement, and your ABS power module may well be fried

matt59 · Post by **matt59** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 2:31 pm

alexperkins wrote:Alternator has problems from those errors for sure. Its not kicking correct voltage. Get a volt meter on the battery when its running. Should be between 13.4-13.8V

As for the recirc air flap, thats the recycle flap in the air system for the cabin gone wrong. Probs needs replacement

Power steering sensor looks like it might need replacement, and your ABS power module may well be fried

Thans for the swift response. Any idea what might be going on with the alternator? Do you think this may be causing the flickering lights?

Post by **alexperkins** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 3:24 pm

Oh yes definately you should of said!!

Brushes or the voltage regulator may have gone. Get it tested by a specialist.

drewbar · Post by **drewbar** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:19 pm

hey mate, i've got the same problem with my alternator, Its happened the other week and when I tested it it turned out it was supplying no voltage I'm guessing this is going to be down to an internal fault on the alternator. I'd sort this out first, clear all the faults then retest it. I've also got the flap motor faults aswell lol.

drewbar · Post by **drewbar** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:21 pm

however, when I reved the engine the voltage came back, so now i just rev the engine up once i've started the car and it seems ok (touches wood) I will replace it when I get the money as when driving on the motorway the other week I look cd player, then lights, then all the dash warning lights came on. Not good!

Post by **alexperkins** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:30 pm

Ye it would - that means the alternator isnt providing power under idle. It spins faster when you rev, but get it fixed asap as it may cause damage.

K.I.T.T. · Post by **K.I.T.T.** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:30 pm

Not really gotten round to getting a VAG-COM yet, but my alternator may be playing up as well. Following it being service by my local independent, they said although the battery (5+ years old) was the best they'd seen so far (also if comparing to some brand new ones), the alternator voltage seemed a tad low.

However, I went to India for 5 weeks over the summer with the car locked up in garage. When I came back it fired up immediately after turning the key for the first time. Me =

Apeears to be charging fine then, so just hope it isn't an issue (touches desk). Also, this recirc flap thing, what are we talking about? The same one used for the blower/heater/AC?

Ash

Post by **alexperkins** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:43 pm

Ye ash we are talking bout that flap

ihpj · Post by **ihpj** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:41 pm

With regards to your fault #3 - just had that rectified on my Mother's 9N.

Can be expensive fix as there is a couple hours labour involved and the [genuine] flap motor itself costs circa Â£80 (+VAT). Few notes to set right, maybe worth living with for the time being. You could however see if these faults rectify themselves after you have had the alternator fixed.

Good luck mate.

RUM4MO · Post by **RUM4MO** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:34 pm

Right, alternator giving out low/no charge at low revs - there is a cable connection under the car and one of the wires - a yellow one I think gets sheared. This wire provides the excitation current to the alternator without that the alternator's output at low revs is pants - but at higher revs it "self-excites". This info is not from my experience but info gleaned from either the Skoda forum or the Seat forum - try searching the Skoda forum (Fabia section) for alternator problem (maybe). Your battery might recover from this abuse and that is why the electric steering is being knocked out - it needs lots of amps. BTW, one way to fix the sheared wire is to just fit a link across this plug & socket arrangement - it will only be a low current line anyway which might be why it shears in the first place.

drewbar · Post by **drewbar** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:28 pm

RUM4MO wrote:Right, alternator giving out low/no charge at low revs - there is a cable connection under the car and one of the wires - a yellow one I think gets sheared. This wire provides the excitation current to the alternator without that the alternator's output at low revs is pants - but at higher revs it "self-excites". This info is not from my experience but info gleaned from either the Skoda forum or the Seat forum - try searching the Skoda forum (Fabia section) for alternator problem (maybe). Your battery might recover from this abuse and that is why the electric steering is being knocked out - it needs lots of amps. BTW, one way to fix the sheared wire is to just fit a link across this plug & socket arrangement - it will only be a low current line anyway which might be why it shears in the first place.

That is a peice of gold mate, Nice one!!!

drewbar · Post by **drewbar** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 9:00 pm

Right guys, i've just fixed mine tonight using the peice of golden info given to us by RUM4MO so props to that guy for being clued up I owe you a pint lol. Hope the solution will be of use to you mate.

matt59 · Post by **matt59** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 9:35 am

Thanks for the info so far guys. Will be really useful.

drewbar wrote:Right guys, i've just fixed mine tonight using the peice of golden info given to us by RUM4MO so props to that guy for being clued up I owe you a pint lol. Hope the solution will be of use to you mate.

Drewbar, how exactly did you fix it? Did you replace the yellow wire?

Ta,

Matt

RUM4MO · Post by **RUM4MO** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 5:26 pm

matt59 wrote:Thanks for the info so far guys. Will be really useful.
drewbar wrote:Right guys, i've just fixed mine tonight using the peice of golden info given to us by RUM4MO so props to that guy for being clued up I owe you a pint lol. Hope the solution will be of use to you mate.
Drewbar, how exactly did you fix it? Did you replace the yellow wire?
Ta, Matt

Matt, I think that you will find that Drewbar found that both of the wires going to this plug were sheared or "not good" - and that the wire that was originally yellow had been replaced already with a blue wire. He had the means etc to replace both the already replaced wire and the other wire also the pins that the wires are crimped to in the plug and replace any missing protective sheathing. The reason that he did all this work in this way would be to do the repair correctly so that it would last - if you skimp on this repair the water and salt spray from road salting will quickly reduce the repair back to its original state. If you really really know how to spice in new bits of wire, I'd follow what he did, but if you can not remove or buy new plug pins then I'd follow my original info gleaned in other forums and splice in one or two new lengths of wire and remove the need for this plug and socket - but leave "tails" of wire on both the plug and socket just in case you later want to do this job a bit better - oh and protect the wiring - or refit the protection adding in and "hiding" safely out of the way any extra length of wire(s) for the next time! By doing it that way you will get back on the road quickly and still be able to improve this repair "later" - whenever that is! Oh and make sure that you use these sealing inline things to keep the water out! Finally, remember just because Drewbar found that what I had suggested was "spot on" - you would really need to check this plug<>socket area on your car before you can definately say that your failure is the same as his - it would be handy if it was though - nice and cheap to fix if you are a DIYer!