Oil pressure issues

[ConnorRogers]

VW polo 2003 1.4 petrol

Having an issue where will be driving along and the engine power will suddenly drop for about couple of seconds and then kick back in and run OK. Yesterday was driving along dual carriageway and did it couple of times and then completely died and oil light came on managed to get to layby and restarted the engine and started up fine and ok just with engine management on. Checked oil level today after car has stood overnight and oil is good, had full service last week so filters and oil have been changed, but this problem existed before. Could it be a faulty oil pressure switch?

Many thanks!

[littlepolo]

Are you able to scan for any codes?

[ConnorRogers]

I haven't an engine diagnostic tool personally but used a colleagues but this had trouble connecting to the CPU

[littlepolo]

You really need a scan tool/cable that works, otherwise it's guesswork and swapping parts. It could be the oil pressure switch but I've had a fair share of issues with my Polo and never had one fail. There is also an oil level switch but IIRC that just illuminates a warning lamp.

[RUM4MO]

OP, remember one thing, if the engine dies/flames out, the oil pressure light will come on, so maybe you are getting concerned about the wrong things.

I'd hope that if you fix what is causing the intermittent cutting out of the engine, the car will run okay.

[ConnorRogers]

Possibly it's only concerning me as that's the only light that comes on and it beeps at me. I hope so too its a good car just had 2 new tyres and full service. Thanks anyways!

[RUM4MO]

Maybe I misinterpreted what you wrote initially, I thought that you were concerned that the oil light was coming on when the engine was dying, which is expected, if it I is coming on when the engine is running normally, then replace the oil pressure sensor before doing anything else.

[Aybesea]

I had this problem my instrument panel was not working so got it replaced and i had the oil light coming on,but only after about 15 mins driving ie going to work and to local town.Always came on nearly all the time at the same place or about same milage (6miles) i checked the oil all ok then had the oil pressure checked by local VW franchise and it was 11psi at idle instead of over 35psi.So engine was knackered,I could of had the engine oil pump/bearings checked etc.VW franchise said to get one off Ebay but that could be in a state or as a worse state and paying for the work to be done would cost a lot of cash,I had the body of the car checked over and i got a replacment short VW engine from Germany took a 10days to get it and have fitted. Everything from the old engine ie injectors etc was put on the new one but it came with new waterpump.I ran the engine in and have done 10k miles with no problems at all i do not even have to top the oil up as it never loose/burn any .Yes i could of gone and got a different polo but that could be kaput after a while so that is why i went down the replacment engine route.

[ConnorRogers]

Update *

I've ve taken it for Diagnostics and they believe it's a faulty EGR valve which is about £335, is it worth it as they're 90% sure it'll fix it but not certain

[littlepolo]

That is possibly the answer. Only you can make the call on it being worthwhile. There are cheaper options to replace the EGR (e.g. used, auction sites) however you need diagnostics software to adapt it if replaced.

You could try removing and cleaning the EGR valve (and checking if it sticks).

[Aybesea]

That is what i would do take it off and give it a good clean ,no doubt there are vids on Youtube about cleaning EGR even if not about VW Polo.Wonder if it is a leaky vacume tube would that cause same problem?

[RUM4MO]

I'd have to say, maybe wrongly, but in my experience, petrol engines do not tend to destroy their EGR valves nor do they end up with them clogged up.

So, two options/alternatives here, firstly, that EGR valve was badly manufactured and the sealing plug in the base has started to leak or dropped out, or secondly, the TB (throttle body) end of the pipe taking the exhaust gases into the inlet manifold is clogged up with goo which is dirty oil mist heated up so much that is has turned into black heavy grease or gunge. My approach here would be to clean out the TB area and its interface plate if it has one, taking that apart would prove if the small air passage is blocked and so when cleaned up improve things.

But, when you can't work on your own car, you are very much in the hands of those who can do that work, so you might have to take that hit, remote diagnosing problems is not so much an art as a guessing game.

[littlepolo]

I can agree with the above comments. However, I had to replace a failed EGR. The link pipe (throttle body to EGR) was sooty but not clogged.