Decided I wanted a bit more noise out the back to replace the fake noise from the soundaktor.
I didn't want to spend the amount for a catback after only recently buying all the parts for a clutch change and front suspension refresh so settled on a resonator delete. The one I went for was the PipeDyanmics for £70 off of eBay.
The pipe itself is made from 304 stainless and the welding is also high quality. It came with a clamp to secure it to the section leading to the rear silencer and uses the existing clamp in front of the resonator that connects to the downpipe.
Factory Resonator for size comparison
Res Delete
Welds
Fitting The Res Delete
The factory exhaust is only made up of 2 sections, the downpipe and cat from the turbo, then the resonator and rear silencer. They're joined just in front of the resonator with a sleeve clamp. So for a res delete some cutting is required.
The clamp itself has two 13mm nuts. At 76k miles and 7 years old they were quite rusted but did loosen off with some WD40 and wire brushing of the exposed threads. The part number for the clamp is 1K0 253 141 M for those who discover the nuts have rusted away.
I chose to use a chain cutter as they were inexpensive and I don't plan on needing to cut off multiple exhausts in a timely fashion
The instructions included stated to measure 240mm from the weld on the factory resonator around the outside of the bend toward the rear silencer. I misplaced my paint pen so settled for using a small hacksaw to mark the measurement.
Fitment of the res delete relies on the existing exhaust sliding into the new pipe from the silencer end so don't cut this section too short or too long as otherwise it won't fit. Better to cut not enough off than too much in this situation.
Ensure you can loosen the nuts on the clamp then tighten them back up and leave the exhaust in situ still clamped together to help reduce movement of the exhaust. Otherwise cutting it will be ten times harder than it needs to be.
Once I got the technique down the chain cutter got through without any fuss but couldn't quite get the whole diameter so I had to cut through the final few mm at the bottom with a hacksaw.
I then sprayed the hanger and rubber mounting with some silicone lube and used a pipe wrench to push the hanger out of the mount. Slide the centre clamp forward and voila! The resonator is out. It does have some weight to it though. Also, use a jackstand to support the downpipe so there isn't excess stress placed on the flexi.
Getting the res delete in is where I started to face some trouble, mainly because I was doing this on the floor on jack stands so didn't have much vertical working space. I also discovered I hadn't cut enough of the old pipe off, off by 5-10mm. I couldn't get the section that went to the rear silencer on and the hanger into the rubber mount at the same time.
Also, don't bother unbolting the brace in the middle as there are more nuts underneath the plastic panelling that need to be removed in order to take it out.
Before you lift the res delete into place ensure all the clamps are in place and orientated in a fashion that means you can access the bolts/nuts to loosen and tighten them.
The best way I found to get the res delete in was the take the rubber mounting off of the car (two 13mm bolts) and put it onto the hanger on the res delete, lift the pipe into place over the centre brace, and push it past the centre clamp to the right side of the downpipe. Then slide the rear section into the res delete.
Once the rear section is in, position the front section and slide the mid-clamp over. Leave the clamps loose and bolt the rubber mount back to the car which is now accessible thanks to there being no resonator
Now if like me you didn't cut enough off your exhaust tips will be pushed the the right (looking at the back of the car from behind) but if you did cut enough off, while the clamps are loose, position and manipulate the joint between the rear silencer and res delete to achieve your desired tip fitment.
Ensure no part of the exhaust is making contact with anything to avoid having annoying rattles, knocks and potentially melting something like your bumper.
Sound
Arguably the only reason to fit a res delete is sound and I was quite surprised with the results and it shows how much work the factory resonator is doing.
By far the biggest difference is on cold start. It's night and day in my opinion. Once warm there's a nice discreet rumble.
Pulling away from a stop and reversing the exhaust has a nice deep tone to it.
Driving around town at 1-2k rpm there isn't much difference from stock in my opinion, maybe a little bit deeper tone.
Above 3k rpm is when the exhaust comes back to life with a nice sound without being horrendously loud.
On the motorway the exhaust is noticeable and there is some drone as there is now no resonator but it's not going to make your ears bleed.
Overall for £90 (res delete and chain cutter) and an afternoon's work I'm more than happy with the end result. I also wouldn't sack off the resonator as they're not cheap new (6C0 253 409 A £2-300) if you need to put it back for whatever reason.
I've uploaded some clips to compare the factory system and res-delete cold starts:
Stock:
https://youtu.be/9YFxhd8tzXw
Res Delete:
https://youtu.be/kTD0eqyHuCc
To turn off the Soundaktor connect your diagnostic tool of choice, in my case VCDS.
Modules > A9-Structure Borne Sound > Adaptation > Volume of Structure-borne noise actuator > New Value = 0% > Do it!
Hopefully, you found this post useful